It came from moodeaudio.
https://github.com/moode-player/protodac/blob/main/docs/protodac_tda1387_x8.md
https://github.com/moode-player/protodac/blob/main/docs/protodac_tda1387_x8.md
Guys, have anyone encountered this behaviour from the UCC (Pro) modules? With two of them in my latest PurePi stacks, the first green LED starts to fade away at 3.22V (input), at 3.2V all LEDs are dead and the pure mode is being carried all the way down until around 3.1V, which takes another 6-7 hours, so pretty much half of the pure time is UCC being driven without control LEDs.
I tried 5 different battery brands, 4 DC cables and 3 PurePis. But this doesn't happen with my older UCC mkII, which holds all LEDs lit even close to the end of the pure battery cycle.
Green LED dead around 3.22V
Last man standing (power good) slightly above 3.2V, then they're dead.
Any ideas?
I tried 5 different battery brands, 4 DC cables and 3 PurePis. But this doesn't happen with my older UCC mkII, which holds all LEDs lit even close to the end of the pure battery cycle.
Green LED dead around 3.22V
Last man standing (power good) slightly above 3.2V, then they're dead.
Any ideas?
I've just installed a ES9038Q2M dual mono II DAC with the OPA861 zero feedback bal I/V board on top an Rpi with FiFOPI Q3
I've also the Monitor PI PRO where there are many setting for the DAC that I can't find any documentation.
I've also removed the DAC clock and I've connected the M/Clock signal from FifoPIQ3 to ESS DAC
Are there suggested setting to use with IAN ES9038Q2M DAC ?
I'm posting the screenshot of the setting I'm trying to figure out how to configure
Any help will be appreciated
I've also the Monitor PI PRO where there are many setting for the DAC that I can't find any documentation.
I've also removed the DAC clock and I've connected the M/Clock signal from FifoPIQ3 to ESS DAC
Are there suggested setting to use with IAN ES9038Q2M DAC ?
I'm posting the screenshot of the setting I'm trying to figure out how to configure
Any help will be appreciated
Attachments
Only the manual explains how to use true sync mode with a few more settings, the various filters are not explained what they do.
https://github.com/iancanada/Docume...ualMonoDacHAT/ES9038Q2MPiDualMonoIIManual.pdf
https://github.com/iancanada/Docume...ualMonoDacHAT/ES9038Q2MPiDualMonoIIManual.pdf
Attachments
The filters are the out of the box ESS ones and should be on the datasheet. The lower the DPLL, the better possible SQ but source dependent and True-Sync is the ultimate of that. If you can bypass OSF thats the best sonic performance, but you loose volume control and if I remember correctly you need to be upsampling to 358/384 prior.
I don't have an answer for you, but that's a stack and a half! Do you use a little bracket on top to attach it the wall to keep it from tipping over? 😉
Hello,
I have a protoDAC (the one with the 8 tiny little chips) and have ordered an IAN Canada DAC with the OPA amp. I'd like to use both DACs so I can switch between them for fun. I was considering either splitting the output signals from the FIFO Q7 to feed both DACs or inserting an electronic switch to manage the signal routing. For the analog output, I’d use relays to toggle between them.
Would it cause any issues if I simply connected the Q7 I²S wires in parallel to both DACs?
I have a protoDAC (the one with the 8 tiny little chips) and have ordered an IAN Canada DAC with the OPA amp. I'd like to use both DACs so I can switch between them for fun. I was considering either splitting the output signals from the FIFO Q7 to feed both DACs or inserting an electronic switch to manage the signal routing. For the analog output, I’d use relays to toggle between them.
Would it cause any issues if I simply connected the Q7 I²S wires in parallel to both DACs?
@Ras Dan
I once did this (via a relay), my problem was that I had to turn off or reboot the Raspberry Pi first, otherwise the software would not recognize the DAC.
In my case I had to choose a different driver for the two different DACs.
I once did this (via a relay), my problem was that I had to turn off or reboot the Raspberry Pi first, otherwise the software would not recognize the DAC.
In my case I had to choose a different driver for the two different DACs.
@Ras Dan
This is something I seriously planned on doing but I never tried it yet
The ProtoDac does not need any special drivers it is the easiest Dac to build and sounds great for how little it costs
The way I plan on doing it is taking the I2s signal from the Gpio for My TD1 Dac in your case The ProtoDac and the Dual mono Dac you have takes it directly from the Gpio
I believe that should work but have yet to try it. Let us know if you try it a few of us are very interested.
The relay option could work but need to be careful it is easy to degrade the sound
You will need 3 separate relays to avoid frequencies jumping pins keep leads very short and shielded.
For how to run the ProtoDac from UFL see my video where I talk about that.
This is something I seriously planned on doing but I never tried it yet
The ProtoDac does not need any special drivers it is the easiest Dac to build and sounds great for how little it costs
The way I plan on doing it is taking the I2s signal from the Gpio for My TD1 Dac in your case The ProtoDac and the Dual mono Dac you have takes it directly from the Gpio
I believe that should work but have yet to try it. Let us know if you try it a few of us are very interested.
The relay option could work but need to be careful it is easy to degrade the sound
You will need 3 separate relays to avoid frequencies jumping pins keep leads very short and shielded.
For how to run the ProtoDac from UFL see my video where I talk about that.
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As Gabster wrote, it is no problem to run two DACs in parallel from one Q7. Ian's DAC takes i2S from GPIO (plugged on top of Q7), and the second DAC gets the I2S over u.fl. connectors. There are even two MCLK u.fl. connectors on Q7, one on the top of the board and one at the bottom.
I run such setup quite often when I want to compare other DAC boards with Ian's DAC.
If one wants to split the I2S signal from u.fl connectors to more DAC boards, there is a neat solution for that here: https://kaamostech.com/product/clock-buffer-1-3
I run such setup quite often when I want to compare other DAC boards with Ian's DAC.
If one wants to split the I2S signal from u.fl connectors to more DAC boards, there is a neat solution for that here: https://kaamostech.com/product/clock-buffer-1-3
Haha, no it's meant to be a mobile siege weapon, destroying old structures and paradigms, hence it's name "Helepolis".
It's first victim was a fully upgraded Pink Faun 2.16 Ultra. Battle report from its owner here: https://www.highendforum.cz/viewtopic.php?p=119738#p119738
And this is how the battleground looked like:
many thanks @gizmo3 and @sebbyp
I set the DPLL to "No bandwidth" and "True sync stop DPLL"
Filter set to "Linear fast roll off"
I'm using only 44.1khz 16 bit material at the moment and If I disable OSF there is no sound. That confirm the need to upsample the source as @sebbyp said
By the way, regarding filters I've found this page that is very interesting.
Filters
I set the DPLL to "No bandwidth" and "True sync stop DPLL"
Filter set to "Linear fast roll off"
I'm using only 44.1khz 16 bit material at the moment and If I disable OSF there is no sound. That confirm the need to upsample the source as @sebbyp said
By the way, regarding filters I've found this page that is very interesting.
Filters
I seem to have everything working properly finally, and got to do a little serious listening this evening. I have to say, I am floored at the sound quality, and that's just with the Q7 sending the signal to my B&K DAC, and I cannot say I am disappointed.
However, the UCPure that I got, I seem to have an issue with it cutting of and on after a little time, and if the music isn't loud, I can hear an audible clicking sound from it. It does not stop playing, although I stop it playing whenever it's done this. When that happens the D9 blue LED shuts on and off as well as the yellow "full" button. That is to say it keeps clicking until I stop the playback. Is that normal operation with these super caps, or is something wrong? I didn't see anything in the manual unless I missed it.
However, the UCPure that I got, I seem to have an issue with it cutting of and on after a little time, and if the music isn't loud, I can hear an audible clicking sound from it. It does not stop playing, although I stop it playing whenever it's done this. When that happens the D9 blue LED shuts on and off as well as the yellow "full" button. That is to say it keeps clicking until I stop the playback. Is that normal operation with these super caps, or is something wrong? I didn't see anything in the manual unless I missed it.
I love the floor....very cool...I mean I am an Audiophile so i love the rest of the stuff...but I chose the floor to comment on...and I am serious...very cool!And this is how the battleground looked like:
UcPure holder now with added center piece to build a UcPure Double
A fellow DIY'er asked if it was possible to stack two UcPure holders on top of each other to build a double/quad UcPure. It is of course possible but I created a center piece to make it easier.
Ian has of course his Quad solution but this I more meant for a plus/minus 5V supply for an analog stage.
The center Piece can be downloaded for free at: UcPure Holder - Thingiverse
Here is a picture of the finished UcPure Double and some printed parts (thanks for the picture Jay):
A fellow DIY'er asked if it was possible to stack two UcPure holders on top of each other to build a double/quad UcPure. It is of course possible but I created a center piece to make it easier.
Ian has of course his Quad solution but this I more meant for a plus/minus 5V supply for an analog stage.
The center Piece can be downloaded for free at: UcPure Holder - Thingiverse
Here is a picture of the finished UcPure Double and some printed parts (thanks for the picture Jay):
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Not sure if you got a response yet, maybe I overlooked it, but Q means transistor.
I wouldn't trust it if it's blown off, but I guess you could measure it so see if it's still functional.
Otherwise, maybe the manual specifies what the specs are, and you can replace it.
And maybe contact Ian on it.
would it make any difference to place a UcConditioner5V pro in front of a PurePi II 5v/3.3v?