your worlds second best DAC was my whole inspiration for getting into this game....thanks @Gabster 2000
@Aiello Beautiful work, a true piece of art. Enjoy it.
Also, congratulations to everyone in this thread for surpassing the 500-page mark!
Also, congratulations to everyone in this thread for surpassing the 500-page mark!
Does anyone have a recommendation for a DIY balanced preamp with +10db gain that would go well with Ian's DAC?
Two things I am considering for full balanced are two Burning Amp line stage kits one for each channel, or building a tube amp SE with transformers at both ends to convert. Option 2 is expensive and will colour the sound "tube" (not a bad thing). Option 1 is cheaper and probably more transparent.
I think my preference is "give me the producers mix" - ie transparent.
I went to my local audio store - no dice on borrowing one, pay for it and return it with restock fee. I guess this is post COVID service.
Hi Gabster,
Thanks for the explanation, I just sent the email to Denafrips support.
Hopefully they give me the answer.
Regards,
Rudy
Thanks for the explanation, I just sent the email to Denafrips support.
Hopefully they give me the answer.
Regards,
Rudy
That is In my list of interesting ones. I don’t need 10db gain with the rig I’ve built so this may be good for my situation too
It does receive good reviews 🙂
According to Ian, only his Pass labs preamp does a better job than the hardware volume control of the es90xx.
The diy Bal zen is of course not a Pass Labs of the shelf product, but also a complete different price tag.
You can also build it with a double power supply. Still has to add a potentiometer to the Bal. Zen. Here my plan is to add a stepped attenuator.
I have the PCBs for the Bal Zen, but I am still improving on my Ian DAC🙂
According to Ian, only his Pass labs preamp does a better job than the hardware volume control of the es90xx.
The diy Bal zen is of course not a Pass Labs of the shelf product, but also a complete different price tag.
You can also build it with a double power supply. Still has to add a potentiometer to the Bal. Zen. Here my plan is to add a stepped attenuator.
I have the PCBs for the Bal Zen, but I am still improving on my Ian DAC🙂
https://www.amb.org/audio/alpha24/
Voltage gain is adjustable. Default gain of 5 gets you about +14 dB.
Voltage gain is adjustable. Default gain of 5 gets you about +14 dB.
Hello, could someone please help me with this issue? I've assembled a ProtoDac kit following the instructions on Gabsters' channel, and I've also purchased a StationPi Pro and a FifoPiQ7. However, when I connected the ProtoDac to the FifoPiQ7 and the FifoPiQ7 to the StationPIPro, all the correct Q7 lights came on when I switched it on, but there was no sound. Upon further investigation, I noticed that pins 2 and 4 on J7 are showing 3.3V instead of the normal 5V.
I've attached a diagram for reference. When I connect the ProtoDac directly to the RPI, it works fine. But if I connect it directly to the StationPiPro without the Q7, it doesn't work. I understand that the ProtoDac needs 5V, but it seems like 5V is not being supplied. If I use the other GPO set on the Q7, I'm concerned I'll lose the benefits of the Q7. Any guidance on where I might be going wrong 🙁 Any help would be greatly appreciated. No real experience in doing this but its fun
I've attached a diagram for reference. When I connect the ProtoDac directly to the RPI, it works fine. But if I connect it directly to the StationPiPro without the Q7, it doesn't work. I understand that the ProtoDac needs 5V, but it seems like 5V is not being supplied. If I use the other GPO set on the Q7, I'm concerned I'll lose the benefits of the Q7. Any guidance on where I might be going wrong 🙁 Any help would be greatly appreciated. No real experience in doing this but its fun
Attachments
Hello,
500 $ clocks which are not firmly attached to the circuitboard if you have been playing with other clocks are not exactly cheap either.
Even if you have decided to diy most of your gear there will be things that require serious money.
Most integrated circuits will colour the sound too, discrete circuits probably too and circuit with twenty Dale resistors will not affect the sound?
When there is money involved i will just trust the ones not making money.
Greetings,Eduard
All so true. I just have the stock clocks and the new SCPure. There is an improvement over the stock especially after burn in and with the UCPureMkIII. I’m sticking with the SCPure and will await Ian’s answers and how to best make sure they are seated.
So my next focus is packaging up what I have built into some kind of case(s) AND a DIY pre-amp. I guess it’s a good problem to have - which path do I take in pre-amp and I am sure I will learn a lot.
So my next focus is packaging up what I have built into some kind of case(s) AND a DIY pre-amp. I guess it’s a good problem to have - which path do I take in pre-amp and I am sure I will learn a lot.
Disclaimer; Maybe this is a dumb/already answered question…how will this all work with RPi5? Any compatibility issues? Any improvement from this new power beast? 🤯🤩https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-5/
I guess it is because of this:
Terminator Plus feature:
The DENAFRIPS approach to address the jitters issue by the FIFO BUFFER RECLOCKING. The adaptive FIFO buffer store the digital audio data in the memory. These data are read from the memory using the ultra-low phase noise, ultra-accuracy OCXO, located right in the DAC.
Terminator has built in FIFO, so it does not matter what is the source. Even if you use ultra high-end source device to feed it (even it is better than the DAC's own FIFO), Terminator will modify it (maybe decreases the better signal).
In my opinion it would be better if we can bypass this built-in FIFO.
Wow, sell Terminator and buy Holo Audio May!!!
But again, it really annoys me that in such expensive devices don't have 12V trigger in/out. The circuit for trigger in/out cannot cost more than 5-6 EUR and such a circuit is most manufacturers put in devices of 100 EUR+, but you cannot put the same in a device of several thousand euros???
This applies to almost all popular manufacturers, Denafrips and Holo Audio are no exception.
And then after a year or two, name of the model has been changed. Everything remains the same except cosmetic changes to the housing and they add a trigger circuit and raise the price by 500-1000 EUR.
That's why I love DIY, nobody can make a fool of me, I do everything I need myself.
But again, it really annoys me that in such expensive devices don't have 12V trigger in/out. The circuit for trigger in/out cannot cost more than 5-6 EUR and such a circuit is most manufacturers put in devices of 100 EUR+, but you cannot put the same in a device of several thousand euros???
This applies to almost all popular manufacturers, Denafrips and Holo Audio are no exception.
And then after a year or two, name of the model has been changed. Everything remains the same except cosmetic changes to the housing and they add a trigger circuit and raise the price by 500-1000 EUR.
That's why I love DIY, nobody can make a fool of me, I do everything I need myself.
Last edited: