A few questions...
Did it ever work?
Did it ever work with ReclockPi?
What changed before it stopped working.
Do you have a picture with everything hooked up. IE show how ufl cables are attached and where you apply power.
I ask because I had everything working perfectly but then had lots of problems after adding reclockPi. So it would be useful to peel it back and remove reclockPi. DDDAC should work perfectly driven by FifoPi. If so then add reclockPi. My problems were with signal integrity. New short ufls solved problems.
Also I had problems thinking everything was powered, but missed one dirty power supply on FifoPi that I thought was not needed. In both cases most everything appeared to be working but no sound.
Did it ever work?
Did it ever work with ReclockPi?
What changed before it stopped working.
Do you have a picture with everything hooked up. IE show how ufl cables are attached and where you apply power.
I ask because I had everything working perfectly but then had lots of problems after adding reclockPi. So it would be useful to peel it back and remove reclockPi. DDDAC should work perfectly driven by FifoPi. If so then add reclockPi. My problems were with signal integrity. New short ufls solved problems.
Also I had problems thinking everything was powered, but missed one dirty power supply on FifoPi that I thought was not needed. In both cases most everything appeared to be working but no sound.
Hello,
I dont have another source.
I dont know if the Italian clocks like i use them can be directly coupled to the Q3
It was MY mistake to not start with a more basic use of Ian's Q3. Now everything is connected with sahort cables in such a way that it is not that easy to do things differently. SO that is why i am curious to know if monitor Pi could tell me a bit more than all the leds on Ian's circuits.
Greetings, eduard
I dont have another source.
I dont know if the Italian clocks like i use them can be directly coupled to the Q3
It was MY mistake to not start with a more basic use of Ian's Q3. Now everything is connected with sahort cables in such a way that it is not that easy to do things differently. SO that is why i am curious to know if monitor Pi could tell me a bit more than all the leds on Ian's circuits.
Greetings, eduard
Hello,
Like i just wrote i connected the complete bunch of circuit together right from the start.
Of course if you are not a very experienced diy expert it is best to use the adapter when using the DDDAC.
All the leds indicate nothing is wrong but leds cannot indicate everything.
The ufl cables between Ian's circuits and Doede's board are very short and have been changed already.
The garden hose cables to the Italian boards cannot be made shorter ( i think now 90 cm or 3 ft max.) and lots of people use even longer cables.
Right now i would just go for the NewclassD neutron...... . A tiny board, put it close to the other boards. Italian clocks to much '' hassle '' for me when you have other things to do as well.
Greetings, eduard
Like i just wrote i connected the complete bunch of circuit together right from the start.
Of course if you are not a very experienced diy expert it is best to use the adapter when using the DDDAC.
All the leds indicate nothing is wrong but leds cannot indicate everything.
The ufl cables between Ian's circuits and Doede's board are very short and have been changed already.
The garden hose cables to the Italian boards cannot be made shorter ( i think now 90 cm or 3 ft max.) and lots of people use even longer cables.
Right now i would just go for the NewclassD neutron...... . A tiny board, put it close to the other boards. Italian clocks to much '' hassle '' for me when you have other things to do as well.
Greetings, eduard
Hi All!
Could you help me with the problem I asked Ian (8313, 8314)?
I don't know what I messed up, but I can't even return the 2 Transport Pi to get an HDMI Pro instead (Unfortunately, in my country, this simple compilation is 1 month's salary).
I did everything according to the instructions. In addition, it sometimes bounces when listening to Tidal. MonitorPi is set to 16-32 bit. This was need for Topping D70s, D90 and SMSL DO200MK2.
I build 4 IAN CANADA streamer in the last 4 months , but only the TransportPi Digi and HDMIPI PRO+Q7 work perfectly.
Thank you in advance for your answers everyone.
Kornél
Could you help me with the problem I asked Ian (8313, 8314)?
I don't know what I messed up, but I can't even return the 2 Transport Pi to get an HDMI Pro instead (Unfortunately, in my country, this simple compilation is 1 month's salary).
I did everything according to the instructions. In addition, it sometimes bounces when listening to Tidal. MonitorPi is set to 16-32 bit. This was need for Topping D70s, D90 and SMSL DO200MK2.
I build 4 IAN CANADA streamer in the last 4 months , but only the TransportPi Digi and HDMIPI PRO+Q7 work perfectly.
Thank you in advance for your answers everyone.
Kornél
Hello,everybody have been a follower this forum long time but never posted.This is my fourth time built based on Ian Canada and Raspberry Pi.
Now i decided to go with the top of the line products.4 box solution with ultracapasitors feeding as power supplys,only raspberry pi have very high quality class A power supply,but to suppport have 2x325F ucconditioner board and seperate lt3045 for 1,8v and 3,3v.Go for Raspberry 3b for best sound.Use pi as a headless player streamin Tidal,Quboz and local server Synologie up to 192Khz 24bit,so go a sollution with low noise from cpu pi.Use Volumio with program music shield possible to separate task from music to dedicated cores.Have monitorpi but only for setup Q7,can hear it`s slightly degrades the sound so than settings stored in flashmemory take it away.So my system the latest boards from Ian,I must say have never had better sound enjoying very much
Now i decided to go with the top of the line products.4 box solution with ultracapasitors feeding as power supplys,only raspberry pi have very high quality class A power supply,but to suppport have 2x325F ucconditioner board and seperate lt3045 for 1,8v and 3,3v.Go for Raspberry 3b for best sound.Use pi as a headless player streamin Tidal,Quboz and local server Synologie up to 192Khz 24bit,so go a sollution with low noise from cpu pi.Use Volumio with program music shield possible to separate task from music to dedicated cores.Have monitorpi but only for setup Q7,can hear it`s slightly degrades the sound so than settings stored in flashmemory take it away.So my system the latest boards from Ian,I must say have never had better sound enjoying very much
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Now we really have everything to build a professional digit streamer even in a simple setup with two cards on an RPI.
All I wish for now is a professional DAC with a non-ESS chip (preferably new generation AKM) in dual mono setup including the XLR connectors on a single card. I don't even mind if it's a larger card. Plus a real nice feature would be to have an "internal" signal output on the card which can be connected inside intergrated amplifiers having a DAC card option.
Keeping fingers crossed.
All I wish for now is a professional DAC with a non-ESS chip (preferably new generation AKM) in dual mono setup including the XLR connectors on a single card. I don't even mind if it's a larger card. Plus a real nice feature would be to have an "internal" signal output on the card which can be connected inside intergrated amplifiers having a DAC card option.
Keeping fingers crossed.
Is anyone using a 9VAC tranny as input to the 3.3V LifePO4 Mini PSU? It states in the documentation that an AC source of between 9 and 12 volts (sec) may also be used, but I've heard/read some conflicting opinions about whether 9VAC is suitable. I generally use 6VAC trannies, but have a dual 9V I'm not using and wondering if it's 'safe' to use.
I don't know this the right place for my question, but it seems a lot of people with loads of knowledge about this subject are participating in this thread.
I want to build the "ultimate" streamer/Roon endpoint to replace my current Metrum Ambre. So I expect to get get better SQ. I would like to build this from components offered by Ian, as they seem to me to be really good quality.
Unfortunately I can't find out what Iancanada modules I do need to be able to build a RPi based streamer which will suit my needs:
Hope someone overhere can help me and tell me which modules I do need to achieve my goal. Perhaps there are more options, would like to know the differences and possibilities.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I want to build the "ultimate" streamer/Roon endpoint to replace my current Metrum Ambre. So I expect to get get better SQ. I would like to build this from components offered by Ian, as they seem to me to be really good quality.
Unfortunately I can't find out what Iancanada modules I do need to be able to build a RPi based streamer which will suit my needs:
- Should be possible to connect via Ethernet cable to my network where I use M1 MacMini as Roon Core
- Should include power supply (or more than one power supplies) No battery supply, as I want to be able to use it every moment of the day and I am used to have my stuff powered on all the time.
- Should be possible to change the clocks for better ones, as I found this to work really well with my etherregen.
- Should have SPDIF RCA output only for my current useage. (active Dynaudio 60XD loudspeakers)
Hope someone overhere can help me and tell me which modules I do need to achieve my goal. Perhaps there are more options, would like to know the differences and possibilities.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Look at this post a couple of pages back: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eapon-to-fight-the-jitter.192465/post-7263122
I am no expert but can make a couple comments.
All of the FIFO modules connect via Ethernet. If money is no object, Q7 will give you full performance possible.
You choose the power supplies. Battery can be left on all the time as it switches to wall power as required to keep charged. Linear power supplies with some supercap filters is a nice compromise IMHO.
All Fifo base systems feature user supplied clocks. It is a key feature that allows you to dial in the sound. Supplied clocks are fit for testing and debugging. IMHO think Accusilicon as your minimum starting point.
I don't use SPDIF but I think that would dictate use of TransportPi.
So a Rpi, StationPi(or Pro), FifoPi Q7, TransportPi Some Linear Power supplies and a UConditioner or 2 plus clocks of your choice would put you into a serious quality streamer.
Great question, I'm in a similar position as I would like to build a streamer which is as good as possible.
In post #8268 from 8th February Ian gives a recommendation you can also find in the documentation for the FiFoPi Q7.
But in post #8211 https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...eapon-to-fight-the-jitter.192465/post-7245259 Ian posted his experience on his own journey finding the "best" streamer for his new DAC. There he says that he swaps out a UcPure 3.3V battery supply with a UcPure MKIII 3000F 3.3V and finds it waaaaayyyy better.
Ah, and there are posts from this year from DDDAC about his experience with different clocks, and he hast also a blog with very good articles about it.
My idea is that based on the FiFiQ7 with the "best" power supply and filter to max out the hardware site without the clocks we could get the maximum which is achievable with DIY sources at the moment.
I'm sure Ian will answer soon, and we both and others will be happy.
Ah, the battery and super cap based power supplies work very easy: If the voltage drops below a certain level, it will be charged automatically, and listening is possible at this time. In the documentation you can find formulas from which you can find out how long the listening time would be from batteries or capacitors.
Kind regards,
Matthias
Edit:
Recommendation:
Flagship RPi I2S/DSD network streamer transport
1. HdmiPi Pro (#17B) or TransportPi AES
2. FifoPi Q7 (#1D)
3. StationPi SMT (#35C)
4. LinearPi 5V(#32A)
5. UcConditioner 5V (#25A)
6. LiFePO4 Mini 3.3V (#42A)
7. UcConditioner 3.3V (#26A)
8. MonitorPi (#49A)
Why StationPi SMT and not Pro? Is Pro's display connection the only difference?
Is LiFePO4 Mini 3.3V into UcConditioner 3.3V the best solution for the cleanest 3.3V power supply? What about the UcPure MKIII 3000F 3.3V? Would the UcPure be charged by a LinearPi, or something else?
Ah, would it be possible to switch between the HdmiPi Pro and the (in the future be released) AES Pro board? Which else "Pro" boards are in your pipeline, Ian? (I'm also greedy to use your new very high performance clock.
)Thank you again!
Best regards,
Matthias
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Hello @iancanada , all!
Please give some more clearer recommendations about how to connect the earth.
This is what i found on the StationPiPro manual:
"Earth is internally connected to the clean side shield plates. You can connect the earth (TP1 or TP2) to the FifoPi clean side ground. Or you can connect the earth to the audio system ground according to the real experiences."
I just connected both TP1 and TP2 of StationPiPro to the earth wire from the wall-outlet. Is this correct?
Should I connect TP1 or TP2 to the clean side GND of FifoQ7? But there is already a wire from the UcPure which I use for clean 3.3V to FifoQ7 and HDMIPro.
Thank you!
Please give some more clearer recommendations about how to connect the earth.
This is what i found on the StationPiPro manual:
"Earth is internally connected to the clean side shield plates. You can connect the earth (TP1 or TP2) to the FifoPi clean side ground. Or you can connect the earth to the audio system ground according to the real experiences."
I just connected both TP1 and TP2 of StationPiPro to the earth wire from the wall-outlet. Is this correct?
Should I connect TP1 or TP2 to the clean side GND of FifoQ7? But there is already a wire from the UcPure which I use for clean 3.3V to FifoQ7 and HDMIPro.
Thank you!
Hi All,
I have been using using streamer from a pi3 with ebay LT1963A power supply and an audiogd I2S hdmi module for more than 3 years now. Looking to upgrade to an iancanada fifo setup but want to stick to a budget of $350 for this upgrade. So I come up with a few option and would like some oppinion on the best route
Route 1:
Keep the old power supply (it has 2x3.3V 1A and 1x5v 1A output)
Get Fifo Q7
Get HDMIPi Pro
Route 2:
Get Fifo Q7
Get PurePi + extra battery
Keep the old audiogd HDMI out
Route 3:
Get Fifo Ma
Get HDMIPi Pro
Get PurePi + extra battery
Gut feel that route 1 would be the best but question is 2x3.3V 1A enough to power the the Q7 and HDMIPi pro? Also, power supply wise is the purepi a considerable upgrade over the ucpi?
I have been using using streamer from a pi3 with ebay LT1963A power supply and an audiogd I2S hdmi module for more than 3 years now. Looking to upgrade to an iancanada fifo setup but want to stick to a budget of $350 for this upgrade. So I come up with a few option and would like some oppinion on the best route
Route 1:
Keep the old power supply (it has 2x3.3V 1A and 1x5v 1A output)
Get Fifo Q7
Get HDMIPi Pro
Route 2:
Get Fifo Q7
Get PurePi + extra battery
Keep the old audiogd HDMI out
Route 3:
Get Fifo Ma
Get HDMIPi Pro
Get PurePi + extra battery
Gut feel that route 1 would be the best but question is 2x3.3V 1A enough to power the the Q7 and HDMIPi pro? Also, power supply wise is the purepi a considerable upgrade over the ucpi?
@mahdi8
i have route:3
with the only difference that I use an i2s philips hat dac and an ian canada isolator 2 in between, of course also the FifoMA 1.5.
overall, the PurePi (5 & 3.3 volts) sounds better than a good linear power supply.
I also don't know if FifoMa 1.5 is better than the Q7, probably the Q7 is better because of the built-in isolation and more functions.
in your case I would go for route :2 and buy an HDMIPi Pro later.
at least that's how I see it.
i have route:3
with the only difference that I use an i2s philips hat dac and an ian canada isolator 2 in between, of course also the FifoMA 1.5.
overall, the PurePi (5 & 3.3 volts) sounds better than a good linear power supply.
I also don't know if FifoMa 1.5 is better than the Q7, probably the Q7 is better because of the built-in isolation and more functions.
in your case I would go for route :2 and buy an HDMIPi Pro later.
at least that's how I see it.
A few hints for the ones upgrading from FIFOPIQ3 to FIFOPIQ7. My system: LifePO4 MK3 (2x3.3V + 1x5V all with conditioner boards), FIFOPIQ7, HDMIPi Pro (old config FIFOPIQ3, ReclockPI, HDMI Transmitter MK2 , StationPi Pro. I was powering the StationPi Pro with 5V on J3 and 3.3V on J5 (5V needed but 3.3V was working fine - saw some users on this forum using this configuration) + powering the FIFOPIQ3 with 3.3V on the clean side. When I plugged teh Q7 I imagined it would work in the same manner - the answer is no. The LifePO4 went into shirt protection mode...
With the help of Jan was able to determine that there is nothing wrong with the new boards and just the power scheme is wrong for the combo. I am using now 5V shared for the StationPi Pro and and 3.3V for teh clean side of FIFOPIQ7 and HDMI Transmitter Pro. This configuration works.
Also the pin of the Accusilicons needs to be bended or adjusted with resistor - however this is stated in the user manual (was working fine without bending the pins with FIFOPIQ3).
Hope this helps others that may face the same in the future.
With the help of Jan was able to determine that there is nothing wrong with the new boards and just the power scheme is wrong for the combo. I am using now 5V shared for the StationPi Pro and and 3.3V for teh clean side of FIFOPIQ7 and HDMI Transmitter Pro. This configuration works.
Also the pin of the Accusilicons needs to be bended or adjusted with resistor - however this is stated in the user manual (was working fine without bending the pins with FIFOPIQ3).
Hope this helps others that may face the same in the future.
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Planning to use a FLIRC SE to power on/off via IR the LIFEPO4 (as I bought a Streacom case for my build and this module fits perfectly). The problem which I am facing is that I need a permanent delivered 5V supply for the FLIRC SE module.
Does anyone has some tricks/ideas where to get that without any additional power supply and also not to use the LIFEPO4 continuous 5V function (which would imply also keeping the RPI powered on - taking the 5V of course from one USB ports of the RPI in this case)?
Does anyone has some tricks/ideas where to get that without any additional power supply and also not to use the LIFEPO4 continuous 5V function (which would imply also keeping the RPI powered on - taking the 5V of course from one USB ports of the RPI in this case)?
Dear @iancanada dear all,
I would like to build the "best" possible streamer. As I read some documentation and many posts here, but not all, would is the way to go? (First question) And, will there be new versions which are in your pipeline in the next months?
Here, on February 8th, you gave this recommendation, which I also found in the documentation.
A few days before you said you "swapped out a UcPure 3.3V battery supply with a UcPure MKIII 3000F 3.3V", and it was a clear improvement.
For the 3,3V supply, is "6. LiFePO4 Mini 3.3V (#42A) with 7. UcConditioner 3.3V (#26A)" still the best, or does the UcPure MKIII 3000F belong here? If so, would the UcPure be charged by a LinearPi, or something else?
Second question
Why StationPi SMT and not Pro? Is Pro's display connection the only difference to the SMT version?
Third question
I don't know if I²S or AES would be the best input for my DAC, the Mola Mola Tambaqui. Would it be possible to switch between the HdmiPi Pro and the (in the future be released) AES Pro board?
Fourth question
Which else "Pro" boards are in your pipeline, Ian?
Thanks for the picture of the new clock! I'm really curious how it will perform! Would be great if @dddac could get a clock to test it, as he has done a nice comparison of different clocks. Then you (and we ;-) ) would have measurements and in my point of view nice listening impressions.
Thank you and kind regards,
Matthias
I would like to build the "best" possible streamer. As I read some documentation and many posts here, but not all, would is the way to go? (First question) And, will there be new versions which are in your pipeline in the next months?
Here, on February 8th, you gave this recommendation, which I also found in the documentation.
A few days before you said you "swapped out a UcPure 3.3V battery supply with a UcPure MKIII 3000F 3.3V", and it was a clear improvement.
For the 3,3V supply, is "6. LiFePO4 Mini 3.3V (#42A) with 7. UcConditioner 3.3V (#26A)" still the best, or does the UcPure MKIII 3000F belong here? If so, would the UcPure be charged by a LinearPi, or something else?
Second question
Why StationPi SMT and not Pro? Is Pro's display connection the only difference to the SMT version?
Third question
I don't know if I²S or AES would be the best input for my DAC, the Mola Mola Tambaqui. Would it be possible to switch between the HdmiPi Pro and the (in the future be released) AES Pro board?
Fourth question
Which else "Pro" boards are in your pipeline, Ian?
Thanks for the picture of the new clock! I'm really curious how it will perform! Would be great if @dddac could get a clock to test it, as he has done a nice comparison of different clocks. Then you (and we ;-) ) would have measurements and in my point of view nice listening impressions.
Thank you and kind regards,
Matthias