Wondering if a balance right, left function is on the remote and available from the
push select on the encoder?
I've been looking at Arduino's for about 5 years but never did anything with them.
Anyone know if there is a larger, code compatible, version that would make
expansion easier, say rather than running multiple boards?
Wondering if the current version of the Apple remote still works well? Anything
better for a bit more money?
push select on the encoder?
I've been looking at Arduino's for about 5 years but never did anything with them.
Anyone know if there is a larger, code compatible, version that would make
expansion easier, say rather than running multiple boards?
Wondering if the current version of the Apple remote still works well? Anything
better for a bit more money?
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Hi guys,
I'm sure these questions have been answered somewhere in this thread already but I'm having a hard time finding exactly what I need: mostly because I'm super new to Arduino code. So any help would be appreciated.
I got my Arduino LDR selector working like a charm with my DCB1. Thanks again to everyone. I just realized though that since I'm using the DCB1 selector function I don't really need the LCD screen for the time being except to see the volume. Here are my questions:
1. Is it OK to run without the LCD for now?
2. Is there a way to change the code so it automatically resets to zero volume when I shut down?
3. I did notice a relay click that comes through my speakers when it goes from 1 to zero or zero to 1. is there any way to fix that?
4. When I was testing the 3 voltage outputs on the PSU I was using the PCB ground point(by C3) as my negative. +R and +D were fine but +A was zero vdc. However when measured from the negative spot at the +A outlet, voltage was correct. I just wanted to make sure that was OK.
5. I'm using the Vincent77's original firmware. Should I be using Wineds's improved firmware? Other than the relay click the original seems to be working well for me.
6. If I do change firmware do I need to recalibrate?
Thanks in advance
I'm sure these questions have been answered somewhere in this thread already but I'm having a hard time finding exactly what I need: mostly because I'm super new to Arduino code. So any help would be appreciated.
I got my Arduino LDR selector working like a charm with my DCB1. Thanks again to everyone. I just realized though that since I'm using the DCB1 selector function I don't really need the LCD screen for the time being except to see the volume. Here are my questions:
1. Is it OK to run without the LCD for now?
2. Is there a way to change the code so it automatically resets to zero volume when I shut down?
3. I did notice a relay click that comes through my speakers when it goes from 1 to zero or zero to 1. is there any way to fix that?
4. When I was testing the 3 voltage outputs on the PSU I was using the PCB ground point(by C3) as my negative. +R and +D were fine but +A was zero vdc. However when measured from the negative spot at the +A outlet, voltage was correct. I just wanted to make sure that was OK.
5. I'm using the Vincent77's original firmware. Should I be using Wineds's improved firmware? Other than the relay click the original seems to be working well for me.
6. If I do change firmware do I need to recalibrate?
Thanks in advance
I'm happy to report that my oled code works with SH1106 based displays too, like the cheap 1.3" ones from aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC...32777848832.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dawDVJ
With one slight modification:
// oled.begin(&Adafruit128x64, I2C_ADDRESS);
oled.begin(&SH1106_128x64, I2C_ADDRESS);
0.96" is too small but this one might be quite usable.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC...32777848832.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dawDVJ
With one slight modification:
// oled.begin(&Adafruit128x64, I2C_ADDRESS);
oled.begin(&SH1106_128x64, I2C_ADDRESS);
0.96" is too small but this one might be quite usable.
hi,
I built an All-In-One board and embedded it in my diy amp (a MyRef Fremen Edition).
It works fine but when i turn on the amp (amp modules and ldr board share the same on/off switch) I hear a buzz and then a bump. after that everything seems to work properly.
I've done a bit of debug and I found that the buzz is audible until the procedure SetPinModes() is executed . The execution of this procedure causes the buzz to cease, then the bump, and after that the noise is over and the welcome message appears on the display.
Any suggestion about how to troubleshoot this?
Thank you.
Filippo
I built an All-In-One board and embedded it in my diy amp (a MyRef Fremen Edition).
It works fine but when i turn on the amp (amp modules and ldr board share the same on/off switch) I hear a buzz and then a bump. after that everything seems to work properly.
I've done a bit of debug and I found that the buzz is audible until the procedure SetPinModes() is executed . The execution of this procedure causes the buzz to cease, then the bump, and after that the noise is over and the welcome message appears on the display.
Any suggestion about how to troubleshoot this?
Thank you.
Filippo
You need to delay the start of your amp somehow. Maybe implement a 12v trigger on your amp and use one of the All-In-One boards relays to activate it.
The "GND" pin on the power supply module should be wired to the chassis or to ground/earth.
Hi,
thank you for the suggestions.
About the ground connection: i created a ground hub attached to the chassis and connected to the ground wire coming from the power supply socket. Ground wires from trafos, MyRef FE boards and PS of the LDR controller are connected to this hub to implement a ground "star" configuration.
So PS board is properly connected to ground, according to nikos suggestion. Anyway I'll double check solders and connections. So my doubt regarding grounding is: could I have created a sort of "ground loop" inside my device causing that buzz?
On the other side, Wineds suggests to set up a mechanism to delay the turning-on of the amp modules. This implies (according to my understanding) that the buzz&bump is pretty normal when the controller comes up and that the amp modules should be turned on only when the 'boot' phase is completed and the system is stable. This implies too that:
- I haven't done anything wrong with the circuitry, grounding, etc.
- I can stop to check here and there to find bad solders and mistakes))
- Other people experienced the same issue
- I've just to go ahead and implement the delay mechanism.
Can anyone confirm or not these assumptions?
Thank you for your patience.
Best regards,
Filippo
thank you for the suggestions.
About the ground connection: i created a ground hub attached to the chassis and connected to the ground wire coming from the power supply socket. Ground wires from trafos, MyRef FE boards and PS of the LDR controller are connected to this hub to implement a ground "star" configuration.
So PS board is properly connected to ground, according to nikos suggestion. Anyway I'll double check solders and connections. So my doubt regarding grounding is: could I have created a sort of "ground loop" inside my device causing that buzz?
On the other side, Wineds suggests to set up a mechanism to delay the turning-on of the amp modules. This implies (according to my understanding) that the buzz&bump is pretty normal when the controller comes up and that the amp modules should be turned on only when the 'boot' phase is completed and the system is stable. This implies too that:
- I haven't done anything wrong with the circuitry, grounding, etc.
- I can stop to check here and there to find bad solders and mistakes
))- Other people experienced the same issue
- I've just to go ahead and implement the delay mechanism.
Can anyone confirm or not these assumptions?
Thank you for your patience.
Best regards,
Filippo
Hi Filippo,
I'm still a newbie at this so I'm not sure if this helps but here goes. I am in the process of adding the LDR attenuator to my DCB1 preamp. My amp is an F5. I added the DIY audiostore speaker turn on delay protection board to the F5. It protects the speakers from any stray DC current but it also has two relays, 5 or 12 volt, that kick in after about 5 seconds, thus "eliminating any nasty thumps that you hear on your speakers". To power it you can add another small 12VAC or 24VAC transformer or, like I did, grab the 24VDC from the F5's PSU. From what I understand it will work with both AC and DC. Works like a charm for me; I turn the amp on and about 5 sec later, "Click". That said I don't have everything in one enclosure like yours and I'm not sure if you need the DC protection.
I'm still a newbie at this so I'm not sure if this helps but here goes. I am in the process of adding the LDR attenuator to my DCB1 preamp. My amp is an F5. I added the DIY audiostore speaker turn on delay protection board to the F5. It protects the speakers from any stray DC current but it also has two relays, 5 or 12 volt, that kick in after about 5 seconds, thus "eliminating any nasty thumps that you hear on your speakers". To power it you can add another small 12VAC or 24VAC transformer or, like I did, grab the 24VDC from the F5's PSU. From what I understand it will work with both AC and DC. Works like a charm for me; I turn the amp on and about 5 sec later, "Click". That said I don't have everything in one enclosure like yours and I'm not sure if you need the DC protection.
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