Hi
question:
at post 260 there is written that if 5W is enough the supply should be just 13V?
really?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/215392-amp-camp-amp-aca-26.html#post3120903
Naturally the heat sink got hotter. If you are satisified with 5 watts, reduce the supply to 13V and the dissipation is about the same.
question:
at post 260 there is written that if 5W is enough the supply should be just 13V?
really?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/215392-amp-camp-amp-aca-26.html#post3120903
Naturally the heat sink got hotter. If you are satisified with 5 watts, reduce the supply to 13V and the dissipation is about the same.
For info on linking to other posts.
When you link to a post if you right click and copy the link from here (image) it retains the unique post ID you are looking at and that should open correctly for everyone regardless of how they have the page view set up (number of posts per page).
If you copy the browser top line info it doesn't retain that info. Your links take me to posts #1421 and post #501
When you link to a post if you right click and copy the link from here (image) it retains the unique post ID you are looking at and that should open correctly for everyone regardless of how they have the page view set up (number of posts per page).
If you copy the browser top line info it doesn't retain that info. Your links take me to posts #1421 and post #501
Attachments
ok mooly i got it.
but i tried the links and they worked
They will work for you because they retain info that matches your own set up.
If someone has say 100 posts per page or 10 posts per page as a setting then your link info will translate to a different post.
Edit... or if you have a different setting to others... which is the same difference of course.
Did anyone notice that the speaker cable set up for bridged mono is reversed in the build guide picturs for 1.8 and 1.6? I think that this is just a mistake and that the 1.6 picture is the correct set up, cannot make sense of it otherwise.
Do not worry, either is fine. Just keep both your speaker connections to the same pattern.
Well, it makes a difference if you connect the cable to the wrong connection as you reverse the phase to the loudspeaker. But I guess they took the picture of the 1.8 when showing how to connect for parallell mono and simply forgot to switch back for bridged mono. As far as I can understand from the schematics, they should be connected exactly as shown for the 1.6 also in 1.8 (when running bridged mono).
I have never been completely comfortable with the fact that positive is connected to ground, but I guess it is that way as the output stage reverse phase
I have never been completely comfortable with the fact that positive is connected to ground, but I guess it is that way as the output stage reverse phase
bjornje - yes.
Speaker pos to "side B" amp board out | speaker neg to "side A" amp board to retain phase from the input signal.
I did these a few weeks ago to help with my understanding. I think they're correct. If not, I'm sure someone will chime in. Overly simplified, but I needed to remove a few things, so I could wrap my brain around it.
Perhaps they'll help others.
Edited to correct spelling of Bjornje, correct note, and add attachments properly. Must get coffee. Keep hitting submit too soon.
Speaker pos to "side B" amp board out | speaker neg to "side A" amp board to retain phase from the input signal.
I did these a few weeks ago to help with my understanding. I think they're correct. If not, I'm sure someone will chime in. Overly simplified, but I needed to remove a few things, so I could wrap my brain around it.
Perhaps they'll help others.
Edited to correct spelling of Bjornje, correct note, and add attachments properly. Must get coffee. Keep hitting submit too soon.
Last edited:
That is how I understood it. And why the picture found here: https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/diyaudio/HCcNDknlZGDlSkUu.huge
puzzels me. As you can see, they connected cable + to A-. Probably just an error.
puzzels me. As you can see, they connected cable + to A-. Probably just an error.
Sorry, linked the wrong image, that was for XLR, but the connections are the same. https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/diyaudio/NODRs2hIAZSWXTa4.huge
Still positive to A-, should be positive to B-. Even says so on the back plate.
Still positive to A-, should be positive to B-. Even says so on the back plate.
bjornje / 6L6. Humblest of apologies:
tl:dr - The photo 6L6 posted of the silkscreen matches the diagram I posted above and should maintain phase, but I wrote it wrong. Speaker (+) goes to side A. Speaker (-) goes to side B.
6L6 - editing time has passed, can you please remove my post. I fear it may cause more confusion. 40 lashes with a wet noodle for me.
tl:dr - The photo 6L6 posted of the silkscreen matches the diagram I posted above and should maintain phase, but I wrote it wrong. Speaker (+) goes to side A. Speaker (-) goes to side B.
6L6 - editing time has passed, can you please remove my post. I fear it may cause more confusion. 40 lashes with a wet noodle for me.
it makes a difference if you connect the cable to the wrong connection as you reverse the phase to the loudspeaker.
And at the source, the CD or the LP or the stream or…, that phase can flip from album to album, even song to song, if the persona doing the recording actually cared about absolute phase one needs a phase reversal switch somewhere.
It matters not which way you hook the speakers. Some of the music you play with be in absolute phase, some won’t, and many recordings will ot have consistent absolute phase even within the same piece.
It is not worth stressing over — you just have to know the speaker connectors on the back of the ACA are misleading and you have to take some care.
dave
Here are a couple of really good articles about polarity:
cjwoodeffect
Absolute Issues Page 2 | Stereophile.com
More About Absolute Polarity Article By Dan Shanefield
cjwoodeffect
Absolute Issues Page 2 | Stereophile.com
More About Absolute Polarity Article By Dan Shanefield
OK - took some measurements this morning... For now - with the top cover open, which I know would not give worst case temp. measurements.
See attached photo as a reminder - I have a "standard ACA" with added ACP+ in the middle, which adds its own heat.
Here are my measurements (ambient = 20C):
Time: 0
* ACP+ Heatsinks: 20C
* ACA Heatsinks: 20C
Time: 5 minutes
* ACP+ Heatsinks: 44C
* ACA Heatsinks: 32C
Time: 10 minutes
* ACP+ Heatsinks: 50C
* ACA Heatsinks: 40C
Time: 20 minutes
* ACP+ Heatsinks: 56C
* ACA Heatsinks: 45C
Time: 30 minutes
* ACP+ Heatsinks: 62C
* ACA Heatsinks: 50C
Time: 40 minutes
* ACP+ Heatsinks: 63C
* ACA Heatsinks: 51C
Looks like after 40 minutes temp. is pretty stable. As expected.
So... taking into account the top cover was open - I am not too worried about the ACA getting too hot, but I have a concern with the ACP+ radiating 63C inside the closed case...
Any thoughts? Would the ACP+ become my downfall?
I can repeat the temp. measurements with top cover closed, but will not be able to measure the ACP+ heatsinks inside. Only ACA's big heatsinks, and the case top cover which would radiate some of the ACP+ heat I assume, but I won't be able to tell internal ambient or ACP+ heatsink temp.
Quick update, after taking more temp. measurements - with the top cover in place this time around.
Ambient (and ACA heatsink temp.) was 22C before turning it on.
After 45 minutes - ACA heatsinks at 50C, top cover (closest I can get to measure ACP+ inside) at 45C.
So... seems like all is good Just wanted to provide an update.
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