Although you're putting all four channels in the same box, it's essentially the same as building two stereo amplifiers along with the ability to run them as bridged monoblocks.
Read the guides linked below all the way through. Focus on steps 46 onward in the second link. Come back with specific questions. If you're not using store boards / a kit, then post your schematic and pictures of your build.
Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Amp Camp Amp V1.5 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Enjoy!
Read the guides linked below all the way through. Focus on steps 46 onward in the second link. Come back with specific questions. If you're not using store boards / a kit, then post your schematic and pictures of your build.
Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Amp Camp Amp V1.5 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Enjoy!
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Hey all,
Thanks everyone for chiming in on how to solve the issues with my amp. I decided to completely disassemble the back panel, re-wire everything, and re-flow both circuit boards just to be sure that everything is attached properly.
Low and behold, it appears that did the trick. So far the amp has been running for a couple hours with no issues.
My sincere thanks to everyone who chimed in and examined my crummy photos.
Cheers. Jim.
Thanks everyone for chiming in on how to solve the issues with my amp. I decided to completely disassemble the back panel, re-wire everything, and re-flow both circuit boards just to be sure that everything is attached properly.
Low and behold, it appears that did the trick. So far the amp has been running for a couple hours with no issues.
My sincere thanks to everyone who chimed in and examined my crummy photos.
Cheers. Jim.
Are you using XLR (balanced input) or RCA type input?
Although you're putting all four channels in the same box, it's essentially the same as building two stereo amplifiers along with the ability to run them as bridged monoblocks.
Read the guides linked below all the way through. Focus on steps 46 onward in the second link. Come back with specific questions. If you're not using store boards / a kit, then post your schematic and pictures of your build.
Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Amp Camp Amp V1.5 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
Enjoy!
is this an installation for real ?
Attachments
This is all you need. I assumed you have used ACA 1.6 boards.
Note, you use the two negative outputs (marked OUT - on the boards). In bridge mode the positive outputs are not used.
You do need to note the board which has the RCA input. I have noted it as 1 on the diagram. That is the output your Black speaker lead goes to. That way your 2 mono blocks will be in 'phase'.
I assume you can figure out the LED and power supply wiring. Just follow the build guide. Personally I would double up the supply wire thickness too.
Attachments
is this an installation for real ?
Not quite.
The RCA input is on the board bottom right. Then it will work.
A small part of the output from the board with the RCA input is fed to the input of the other board (via the 39k resistor).
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This is all you need. I assumed you have used ACA 1.6 boards.
Note, you use the two negative outputs (marked OUT - on the boards). In bridge mode the positive outputs are not used.
You do need to note the board which has the RCA input. I have noted it as 1 on the diagram. That is the output your Black speaker lead goes to. That way your 2 mono blocks will be in 'phase'.
I assume you can figure out the LED and power supply wiring. Just follow the build guide. Personally I would double up the supply wire thickness too.
Can i install OUT+ ground ?
Hi all, as always I'm feeling the need to change something in my system even though its sounding absolutely beautiful.
Might give the ACA another run on the mid horn and was thinking about impedance, the horns are 16ohm so should I change anything in the design to suit this load? Going to lower the output cap as I on't need full range, 300hz and up.
Thanks
Might give the ACA another run on the mid horn and was thinking about impedance, the horns are 16ohm so should I change anything in the design to suit this load? Going to lower the output cap as I on't need full range, 300hz and up.
Thanks
I don’t know the answer about what you should change.
But will ask. What does the impedance of the horn and it’s crossover look like from 300 to 20k? May be worth the time to learn its behavior. Mostly I’m curious because have never measured a horn. Do they have a curve or are are they resistive? Thanks
But will ask. What does the impedance of the horn and it’s crossover look like from 300 to 20k? May be worth the time to learn its behavior. Mostly I’m curious because have never measured a horn. Do they have a curve or are are they resistive? Thanks
What does the impedance of the horn and it’s crossover look like from 300 to 20k?
The horn will have its own impedance, and wha it looks like will tell you a lot abou tthe design, and all to often, an XO is optimized for thigns other than impedance response so will have an impact of what happens when you connect it to a higher Rout like a SET, SEP or the ACA.
For the question of 16Ω, 2 ACAs bridged into mono would be best as far as power delivery (each channel sees 8Ω) at the expense of higher Rout, not an issue if you are multi-amping as long as th ehorn impedance is not ugly on its own.
dave
Has anyone talked about replacing the power adaptors for the ACA with batteries ? I'm assuming a battery source will have much better power source on demand (eg. high inrush currents).
I considered doing this. Instead, I made a hybrid power amp using the Korg B1 and a Bottlehead class D amp instead. The ACA runs in class A, so I figured that it would consume too much energy.
Thank you, but I don't understand what you just said, guess I haven't been around here long enough. For me it wasn't about energy consumed, more of getting the best audio signal out.
Well, consider this:
ACA in stereo (2 channels) draws 3 Amps all the time - 1.5A + 1.5A
If you connect it to two 120 Amp/hour batteries (batteries in series to get 24V)
that will theoretically give you 40 hours.
Much less in real world conditions, batteries will be fully discharged when voltage drops around 10.5 - 11 V.
On top of all this your supply voltage will slowly drop when amp is in use due to current draw.
Now tell me which one is the cost effective and ergonomic option:
- two humongous and quite expensive batteries and a sophisticated charger
- either the supplied SMPS or a classic linear single polarity PSU?
You do the maths.
As for the sound remember the ACA is a POWER amp, not a RIAA corrector.
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