Here is a good page that can calculate whether you have a good room for listening.
You measure the distance between the walls and floor to ceiling.
I have fairly good measurements but it could be better. Check the measurements of your room and you will see the answer in the Bolt area.
https://amcoustics.com/tools/amroc?l=540&w=340&h=240&st=false&so=false&fo=193&fu=14&r60=0.6
You measure the distance between the walls and floor to ceiling.
I have fairly good measurements but it could be better. Check the measurements of your room and you will see the answer in the Bolt area.
https://amcoustics.com/tools/amroc?l=540&w=340&h=240&st=false&so=false&fo=193&fu=14&r60=0.6
Does anyone know if the MAOP 10 has the removable "edge" such that it would fit a box built for the 10P with a cutout for the 10P with the "edge" removed...sorry in advance for terminology and thanks,
Mario
Mario
please disregard prior post...I've determined that while the diameter of the MAOP 10 is the same as the 10P with edge on and not removed, the MAOP doesn't have a removable edge....time to build cabs meant for the MAOP....
Mario
Mario
Are you talking about the optional cosmetic bezel cover that comes with the A10.3/p but often comes already glued nto some models.
dave
dave
Yes Dave, that's what I'm referring to...while it's removable on 10.3m, it's glued on MAOP,
Mario
Mario
Mario,
You are correct - I tested a pair of Alpair 10 MAOP a few years back and the bezel cover was already glued on/fixed.
It is still possible to extend the rebated area, but needs some careful work with the router.
Thanks Zman,
I think I'll keep my A10 mesquite cab that I did a little turquoise inlay on intact....I did swap out the 10P for the 10.3m yesterday when I discovered the MAOP wouldn't fit and decided that I like the m better than the p. While the m is a bit more cruel on recordings with grating highs, overall I like it better...not by a ton, but better none the less. The margin of improvement, though to me isn't as much as swapping a 7P for a 7M (which I've done on my 2-ways).
When my back gets better and woodshop waitlist eases, I'd like to build another floor compact for the MAOP..
Mario
I think I'll keep my A10 mesquite cab that I did a little turquoise inlay on intact....I did swap out the 10P for the 10.3m yesterday when I discovered the MAOP wouldn't fit and decided that I like the m better than the p. While the m is a bit more cruel on recordings with grating highs, overall I like it better...not by a ton, but better none the less. The margin of improvement, though to me isn't as much as swapping a 7P for a 7M (which I've done on my 2-ways).
When my back gets better and woodshop waitlist eases, I'd like to build another floor compact for the MAOP..
Mario
Here you go Dave...I think I posted this but it was many years ago: a Bob Brines bookshelf cab design for A10P or A10M. I bought the flatpac from him, assembled and then glued mesquite panels that were ripped, cut and planer'd down to 3/8". The "cracks" in the mesquite were inlayed with crushed turquoise mixed with apoxy....I think they look better now with the copper colored A10.3m and will eventually take pics of that.
Mario
Mario
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Hi all. A pair of MAOP 10.2 drivers are on the way. Looking for diy cabinet recommendation. Gotta have the best of the best, right?!? OK… Within reason. Not sure I want to dig into some of the room sized or highly complicated builds.
Will be running Elekit 8900 2A3 in a medium small room.
Currently using Lii Audio S10 drivers shoehorned into Madisound/Fostex 8” BLH kit. Yeah…I know! 😬 But not as bad as you might think...and with a pair of REL T7x subs gently tucked under most are amazed with the sound. This was supposed to be a temporary set up, but I have been running these for two years now! (Still looking for a better cabinet design for the drivers).
Meanwhile, I have long been interested in the MA drivers and thought it time to give them a go. Thanks all!
Will be running Elekit 8900 2A3 in a medium small room.
Currently using Lii Audio S10 drivers shoehorned into Madisound/Fostex 8” BLH kit. Yeah…I know! 😬 But not as bad as you might think...and with a pair of REL T7x subs gently tucked under most are amazed with the sound. This was supposed to be a temporary set up, but I have been running these for two years now! (Still looking for a better cabinet design for the drivers).
Meanwhile, I have long been interested in the MA drivers and thought it time to give them a go. Thanks all!
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(my opinion, and perhaps biased) Frugel-Horn XL, Pensil, Silbury (if you wanna go nuts), and if those are too big, Mar-KenM10T (you’ll need stands), then the easier to build ones.
The first 2 have the most flexibility in terms of tunign the bas sto suit the highish output impednce of the 2A3 SE (an amp i’d lik eto hear).
dave
The first 2 have the most flexibility in terms of tunign the bas sto suit the highish output impednce of the 2A3 SE (an amp i’d lik eto hear).
dave
I’ve got Mar-KenM10T built and they are lovely. Going to be testing Scott’s Poplars with them next for a bit more depth and for the close to wall placement.
Specialty application where you need to push the box right against the wall. http://wodendesign.com/planset/Poplar-A10x-MLTL-teaser.pdf
Their is a version with sides that are at a 30° angle for an even cleaner merging into the wall (ie HUGE chamfers)
dave
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I didn’t hear about this version actually, I just bought the basic plans from Scott.
So these are nearly trapezoidal as well?
Just checked, wedie has not yet made it into the planset.
eMail me and i will get you the URL.
It does have a trapezodal plan, but it is wider at the back than the baffle, with a larger angle (30° as opposed to 10°).
dave
eMail me and i will get you the URL.
It does have a trapezodal plan, but it is wider at the back than the baffle, with a larger angle (30° as opposed to 10°).
dave