hope your Donuts are having twice 18Vac , each, or you'll have Mute Dual Mono
Twice? I bought only half a secondary…. Jeeeeeez
Thank you! Means a lot.
Forgot to mention the obvious 10uF film caps for decoupling at the load. @ 1/10.000th of last cap value. Just copying the BA-2 decoupler value/ 1/10.000 rule. So no maths involved. We’ll se how it goes
Looks really, really good, Vinz!
Can I do this with out collateral damage: With the board partially populated (see picture) I now want to install R28, R29, LED1, LED 2 and then connect power (+ and ground) checking the orientation of the LED and the brightness of the LED/resistor combination. Just a thought.
Thanks Andy! I hope that before Christmas I'll have it on test..Looks really, really good, Vinz!
Very nice!
I don’t think I will make it ny Christmas. We will see. I will postpone a few tiny jobs, such ad front panel LED, then maybe I can make it 🙂
Postponing the front panel LED, Mighty ZM has provided some tips for a proper LED for a pimpmaster PSU, to consider.
What are your thoughts about this one?
https://www.hella.com/mytruck/en/Products/Auxiliary-headlamps/Jumbo-LED-3487/
Of special interest is what resistance to put in series to get proper amount of Lumens. I figure I can hacksaw the front plate to fit it.
Regards,
Andy
What are your thoughts about this one?
https://www.hella.com/mytruck/en/Products/Auxiliary-headlamps/Jumbo-LED-3487/
Of special interest is what resistance to put in series to get proper amount of Lumens. I figure I can hacksaw the front plate to fit it.
Regards,
Andy
After replacing R23 on the left channel, for proper Iq, PSU is now slid in, and wiring beginning to take shape. After connecting rails, next and last step is the back plate.
MOSFETs are now torqued to 0N9, for a target dissipation of 50 watts per device. Bokys ice cube suggestion finally settled it.
After fiddling back and forth with wiring, I settled for this. It keeps the DC wires close to the speaker wires, fairly low in the chassis, and fairly short taking into account how far back the rails are.
Also, pulling the PSUs max towards center line, makes it fairly easy to adjust Iq and offset even though it’s pretty cramped.
Pretty happy with the overall layout. My cleanest wiring so far. Chose not to twist extremely tight. Testing will show if that is needed. But I think and hope not.
Edit: most direct DC wiring puts the wires above the ground plane. I have a bit of OCD wrt it shorting somewhere down the line, so will try this first. There will be plenty of wire to rerpute the wires later.
Regards,
Andy
Regards,
Andy
MOSFETs are now torqued to 0N9, for a target dissipation of 50 watts per device. Bokys ice cube suggestion finally settled it.
After fiddling back and forth with wiring, I settled for this. It keeps the DC wires close to the speaker wires, fairly low in the chassis, and fairly short taking into account how far back the rails are.
Also, pulling the PSUs max towards center line, makes it fairly easy to adjust Iq and offset even though it’s pretty cramped.
Pretty happy with the overall layout. My cleanest wiring so far. Chose not to twist extremely tight. Testing will show if that is needed. But I think and hope not.
Edit: most direct DC wiring puts the wires above the ground plane. I have a bit of OCD wrt it shorting somewhere down the line, so will try this first. There will be plenty of wire to rerpute the wires later.
Regards,
Andy
Regards,
Andy
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take a look at PL amps having Al ground plane and rails
they're not chickened regarding wire isolation in long term
this is not concrete shaker or Car