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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!

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D

DerekRonin

Member
Joined 2022
Just got most of the parts in two weeks ago, resistors are all in, now for the caps. Waiting for some of the heatsinks to come before getting to the MOSFETs. Still have not decided on a chassis yet. Fingers crossed, hopefully, I can get this unit together soon.
1690840211989.png
 
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ElArte

ElArte

Member
Joined 2021
Paid Member
ggetzoff said:
George,

Sorry that you've had to fund the business and sorry to see your business go.

It looks like BOM 1.2 is good from a Mouser/Digi-key stock standpoint?

Also, have you ever run a 46 in the TSE? Obviously, bias and B+ would have to be adjusted.

Cheers,

Greg
Click to expand...

Make sure you get a 2 or 3 watt part for R5, instead of what’s in the BOM.
 
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7

77seriesIII

Member
Joined 2007
Hi Everyone,
Ok I am stumped. I thought I had found the wire diagram for this but lost it and have just been through Tubelab site but am missing it. I am wiring up the TSEII using RCA inputs. I am using a pre-amp and not a passive volume control. I think this is correct:
L Input 1 - rca Input
L Input 2 - rca ground
R input 3 - rca input
R input 2 - rca ground

Is this correct?

erick
 
boywonder

boywonder

Member
Joined 2008
......Assuming that R15/R26 can be increased in the original TSE to increase gain since it's been discussed here a few times....

I've built a 45 and a 300B version of the TSE with the original 121K resistors and .22uf coupling caps in both amps.

I could use a little more gain in both amps since I'm using the original miniDSP 2x4 as an active crossover with the amps feeding 2 way speakers and I think the miniDSP output is somewhat limited to the amps. When I run the same setup with my baby hueys and Poindexter EL34 PP amps I have lots of extra headroom, but I've got everything maxed with the TSE's.

Can someone post the formula for the corner frequency? I'm ok with raising the corner freq since I'm running subwoofers up to about 150hz, although leaving the corner frequency relatively low is fine since I can set a HPF in the mini DSP.

*speakers are 97db+ sensitivity
 
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boywonder

boywonder

Member
Joined 2008
Tubelab_com said:
The original TSE had anywhere from 100K to 470K resistors installed for R15 and R26. I have increased this to 1 MEG for the TSE-II in order to boost the gain a little. This gives a 10 Hz corner frequency with a 0.1 uF coupling cap.

I wouldn't use a cap much larger than 1 uF and reduce the value of R15 and R26 if you go that large. In this design the coupling cap works into a high impedance, the 1 meg resistor and a couple of pF in the mosfet. This makes minor imperfections in the coupling caps a non - issue. super expensive caps are really not needed, but you can use them if you prefer, just keep the value near 0.1uF
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom!

Using f=1/(2piRC) with the above values (1 meg and .1uf) I get 1.59Hz; George got around 10Hz.......what am I missing? Are there some parallel plate resistances or something that I need to include?
 
Tubelab_com

Tubelab_com

Member
Joined 2005
tubelab.com
Uh, Dumm Blonde thinking. 1.6 Hz is correct. I forgot the 2pi in the denominator.

You don't want too low of a corner frequency or the bias pot will respond slowly and OPT's generally don't like really low frequencies either.

I just looked at my TSE-II that has some glowing blue Chinese 2A3's installed. It has 1 meg resistors and .15uF caps. It also has big Hammond 1628SEA's wired for 2500 ohms. The real low frequency limit is my Yamaha NS-10M Studio monitors that have no response below 70 Hz and are well above 8 ohms below 100 Hz.

I built three TSE-II's when I got the first boards back in 2019 and haven't made one since.
 
cogitech

cogitech

Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Happy New Year, everyone!

I've just treated myself with a nice Mouser BOM order for my new TSE-II board. This is will be a very long term project for me, as I really love the SSE that I built a few years ago and I have other priorities. I just wanted to secure all the parts before some of them once again become unobtanium. I'll be making very good use of this thread over the coming months (maybe years). Thanks to all!
 
cogitech

cogitech

Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
I'm struggling with tube choice here. I've seen enough 2A3 bashing that I had written them off (not to mention the massive filament current requirement), and the 300B seems like overkill (and even the new production 300B are very expensive). I was really thinking 45 were the way to go. Now I realize that finding strong 45 at a good price is going to be extremely difficult. I don't mind shelling out some money, but I want to be certain I am getting what I pay for.

I am sure many have struggled with this dilemma before me. What's the accepted wisdom? What questions do I need to answer for myself? Where to get some 45 tubes that won't be a total waste of money?
 
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