To show you what I mean - I found my older measurements of B2031 woofer.
Does anyone know about a now available driver of similar performance? It seems that a woofer of this size (8 - 9") is hard to find in present-day production. At least this is my impression. I found that it is easier to find a 15" behaving well to 1 kHz than an 8" to 2 kHz.
Does anyone know about a now available driver of similar performance? It seems that a woofer of this size (8 - 9") is hard to find in present-day production. At least this is my impression. I found that it is easier to find a 15" behaving well to 1 kHz than an 8" to 2 kHz.
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Satori WO24 would be my choice.
To show you what I mean - I found my older measurements of B2031 woofer.
Does anyone know about a now available driver of similar performance? It seems that a woofer of this size (8 - 9") is hard to find in present-day production. At least this is my impression. I found that it is easier to find a 15" behaving well to 1 kHz than an 8" to 2 kHz.
To show you what I mean - I found my older measurements of B2031 woofer.
Does anyone know about a now available driver of similar performance? It seems that a woofer of this size (8 - 9") is hard to find in present-day production. At least this is my impression. I found that it is easier to find a 15" behaving well to 1 kHz than an 8" to 2 kHz.
Behringer B2031 woofer
SB Acoustics 8", for $27 : SB Acoustics SB20PFC30-4 8" Paper Cone Woofer
No time to do sanding/filling/finishing, for customers I outsource it to sprayer.
Printer is 7h7.pl Reprinter 600, reprap modified: Smoothieware, Volcano type hotend, Bowden extruder mounted close to hotend, PLA 3mm, glass bed 60 deg. Still getting substantial wrapping. Slicer is Simplify3D standard settings, brim no raft.
Printer is 7h7.pl Reprinter 600, reprap modified: Smoothieware, Volcano type hotend, Bowden extruder mounted close to hotend, PLA 3mm, glass bed 60 deg. Still getting substantial wrapping. Slicer is Simplify3D standard settings, brim no raft.
very interesting tool, thanks mabat !
I have a question, about formula, it looks like some people know well about it here ^^.
I found two close formula for hyperbolic horn (hypex) on Internet :
When I try the two with the same parameters the result is not the same.
Someone know why there is two or when use the first and when the second ?
Thanks
I have a question, about formula, it looks like some people know well about it here ^^.
I found two close formula for hyperbolic horn (hypex) on Internet :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
When I try the two with the same parameters the result is not the same.
Someone know why there is two or when use the first and when the second ?
Thanks
Ok, sorry for talk about hypex horn equation here ^^,
I use OS 3D modeling also with information there :
3D-printing
the tool here is very interesting for the termination
I use OS 3D modeling also with information there :
3D-printing
the tool here is very interesting for the termination
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I don't know, I've never thought about horns in terms of expanding areas. It seems strange to me to think about wave-front area expansion without knowing how the wave-fronts really look like. I don't know the expansion for the horns I make. Somehow I can get by without.
- Once you have the OS, it's all about the termination...
- Once you have the OS, it's all about the termination...
Try some blue painters tape on the heated glass bed. Adjust the height for the tape. The UV components in this tape will make it stick real well. That should be able to prevent warping for PLA.No time to do sanding/filling/finishing, for customers I outsource it to sprayer.
Printer is 7h7.pl Reprinter 600, reprap modified: Smoothieware, Volcano type hotend, Bowden extruder mounted close to hotend, PLA 3mm, glass bed 60 deg. Still getting substantial wrapping. Slicer is Simplify3D standard settings, brim no raft.
I don't know, I've never thought about horns in terms of expanding areas. It seems strange to me to think about wave-front area expansion without knowing how the wave-fronts really look like. I don't know the expansion for the horns I make. Somehow I can get by without.
- Once you have the OS, it's all about the termination...
Thanks, yes it's my main problem in solidworks ^^.
About the start angle, when we use a regular dole tweeter 0° is the good value ?
I don't know, I've never thought about horns in terms of expanding areas. It seems strange to me to think about wave-front area expansion without knowing how the wave-fronts really look like.
Very perceptive, because it is not the area change that matters it is the contour. If the wavefront can follow the contour then great, if not then it just leaves. Hence, the area expansion does not define the wavefront. This is so often missed by people that it's good to see someone who "gets it".
Try some blue painters tape on the heated glass bed. Adjust the height for the tape. The UV components in this tape will make it stick real well. That should be able to prevent warping for PLA.
Better than 60deg glass bed and Dimafix?
With cold bed (17deg) I'm getting substantial deformation.
Very perceptive, because it is not the area change that matters it is the contour. If the wavefront can follow the contour then great, if not then it just leaves. Hence, the area expansion does not define the wavefront. This is so often missed by people that it's good to see someone who "gets it".
In car audio, people use "horns" that look like this:
They're similar to a Smith horn; wildly asymmetric.
I made an ABEC sim, and it seems to indicate that at some frequencies, the wavefronts don't even "see" a big chunk of the horn. Basically the horizontal expansion is so fast, the wavefront almost behaves as if the left and the right wall aren't there, at certain frequencies.
Keep the bed heated with the tape on it. We don't print without tape anymore. Just try it.Better than 60deg glass bed and Dimafix?
With cold bed (17deg) I'm getting substantial deformation.
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