This is 6.5", 210 mm baffle width. Starting with the smallest feasible.
So, something like an SB17 chassis? Cool! My printer is good for 220 mm, so I'd be right there.
Sure, anything of that size, it's just a matter of different cutouts (STEP file without the cutouts will be available).
I'll be making a full design with Dayton SIG180 (not sure about the HF driver yet) including the crossover etc.
I like the idea of adding just a simple box to the printed parts. This can be done in a kitchen 🙂
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A quick sim including an intended enclosure.
1" throat:
0.63" throat (BMS 4526 / 4526HE):
1" throat:
0.63" throat (BMS 4526 / 4526HE):
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I REALLY like that print!
I wish my PA speakers looked like that with a slot port at the bottom.
Printed 🙂
(This is with B&C DE7, a pair of BMS 4526HE arrived yesterday.)
What remains are 1) a part with a bassreflex port and 2) a resizable empty "spacer".
I think this is a pretty general kit, either for a small two-way, or a floorstander (2,5 or 3-way).
(This is with B&C DE7, a pair of BMS 4526HE arrived yesterday.)
What remains are 1) a part with a bassreflex port and 2) a resizable empty "spacer".
I think this is a pretty general kit, either for a small two-way, or a floorstander (2,5 or 3-way).
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This way of integrating the waveguide do make the final product rather similar to whats out there before. Only better performance of course.
My take on a 12"+ Tritonia M turns out looking like a first gen JBL EON of sorts.
Its a rather clumsy attempt as I do not master any 3D CAD programs, I just cut and paste in the slicer program.
My take on a 12"+ Tritonia M turns out looking like a first gen JBL EON of sorts.
Its a rather clumsy attempt as I do not master any 3D CAD programs, I just cut and paste in the slicer program.
Attachments
What material did you use for printing and gluing?
Looks like I need to start up my printer more often ... 🤓
Looks like I need to start up my printer more often ... 🤓
I like the roundovers, it's the great thing about 3D printing that's for free. The performance should be exemplary.
Is that the original (not modified) Tritonia M?
Is that the original (not modified) Tritonia M?
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As this is just a test I used some cheap Anycubic PETG. 2 walls and 4% Gyroid infill. This means there is a good chance that I do have to fill the walls even if I dampen the inside with Rockwool.
Used a 2-component plastic glue.
Its the original Tritonia M. You can see the contours, I forgot to cut away the part extruding from the cabinet shape....
This is the XS with the 16mm throat.
So far so good, no manual work required. Now it will be harder...
So far so good, no manual work required. Now it will be harder...
From the photos it's not really obvious how cute it is 🙂
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these new do-it-only-a-bit-yourself print kits look fantastic and have high persuasive power regarding the ease of speaker production, congratulations.
what were your thoughts on how to achieve stiffness of the baffle?
what were your thoughts on how to achieve stiffness of the baffle?
I've been playing with a 5 inch wavguide idea.
The hard constraints:
I'm having trouble figuring out what a decent coverage angle would be to be combined with a 5 inch mid-woofer for keeping a decent directivity?
Or should I just stick to the 90 degrees angle (45 agree half angle)?
The hard constraints:
- length = 26mm
- OD = 108mm
- r0 = 16.25mm
I'm having trouble figuring out what a decent coverage angle would be to be combined with a 5 inch mid-woofer for keeping a decent directivity?
Or should I just stick to the 90 degrees angle (45 agree half angle)?
If I increase horn radius but keep everything else the same can I still use all throat adapters? For example I’ve 520 horn and if I increase radius and cut it 41mm before horn throat does it still fit adapters?
There are three basic quantities to match: diameter, slope and curvature. Ideally, you should check all of them, as they won't stay (exactly) the same, but very small deviations don't matter that much, I guess. Always check at least the diameter 🙂