I haven't had such thoughts 🙂what were your thoughts on how to achieve stiffness of the baffle?
I think it's already good enough, actually. The baffle is pretty thick and can be printed really stiff, if desired. It's just a toy, this is not rocket science. Anyway, I'd be perfectly happy even with the (mostly hollow) PLA prototype.
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Still some minor modifications...
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What do you mean by toy, is it not intended to be used as a final speaker?
I know that a thin and resonant baffle made from plastic is commonly accepted with PA-type cabinets, but surprised to see it in a HiFi speaker.
I know that a thin and resonant baffle made from plastic is commonly accepted with PA-type cabinets, but surprised to see it in a HiFi speaker.
The overall thickness is 44 mm, which is really what makes it stiff. It's like holding a piece of wood, only much lighter. This is nothing like an injection molding, if that's what you mean by a "thin and resonant baffle made from plastic". Did you ever try to actually print anything?
Every loudspeaker is a toy, isn't it.
Every loudspeaker is a toy, isn't it.
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I've been playing with a 5 inch wavguide idea.
keep in mind that (in particular with this WG size+ crossover frequency combination) it's essential to consider the whole baffle (speaker) to be part of the waveguide.but crossover will be around 2.1-2.5kHz or so.
a 5" driver will just start being directional at around 2 kHz, of course depending on the baffle shape.
I guess you can find lots of good waveguide examples for dome tweeters at www.somasonus.net
I can show my very rudimentary "hand carved" version:

the faceted "roundovers" are mostly for visual pleasure, but they optimize the directivity. roundovers would probably be even better.
EDIT: and never mind if you were asking for a CD waveguide!
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You can always try to scale down the Tritonia XS even further (and make it a bit more open), but frankly I don't see the point. The smaller you make it, the more attention you will need to pay to the enclosure (edge roundings, etc.). The current XS has 120° nominal beamwidth, which seems just fine to me for that kind of design. It's not so easy to make it wider than that.
Yes, i am talking about a waveguide 🙂EDIT: and never mind if you were asking for a CD waveguide!
I’ve been fighting my printer lately. Sometimes it feels like more of a hassle than a convenience…
Do you think your horn flare would be beneficial for a midrange horn? I was going to try and build one with a b&c 8pe21 that would be crossed at 150. I was also thinking of trying to create a phase plug that resembles your spherical wavefront guide. Your opinion is appreciated.
Do you think your horn flare would be beneficial for a midrange horn? I was going to try and build one with a b&c 8pe21 that would be crossed at 150. I was also thinking of trying to create a phase plug that resembles your spherical wavefront guide. Your opinion is appreciated.
The basic understanding of horns always applies: a horn/waveguide going that low will be either inefficient or very big. Hence, "beneficial" is likely to require a large device. In which case, yes, it would be beneficial.Do you think your horn flare would be beneficial for a midrange horn? I was going to try and build one with a b&c 8pe21 that would be crossed at 150.
"crossover will be around 2.1-2.5kHz or so."I've been playing with a 5 inch wavguide idea.
The hard constraints:
- length = 26mm
- OD = 108mm
- r0 = 16.25mm
I'm having trouble figuring out what a decent coverage angle would be to be combined with a 5 inch mid-woofer for keeping a decent directivity?
Or should I just stick to the 90 degrees angle (45 agree half angle)?
If anyone has a bit more advice about this that would be great. 🙂
What I've found so far is that the coverage angle should be max 105-110 degrees to be able to match the mid-woofer well.
90 degrees would give a bit more headroom to cross a little lower.
The basic understanding of horns always applies: a horn/waveguide going that low will be either inefficient or very big. Hence, "beneficial" is likely to require a large device. In which case, yes, it would be beneficial.
I let hornresp generate a hypex horn for me and it looks like a train horn. What kind of directivity should I expect from something like that?
How would it pair with a a520g?
Under Hornresp "Tools-Directivity", there are"Response", "Pattern", "Index"," Beam Width", and "Polar Map" options:What kind of directivity should I expect from something like that?
They will visually tell you what to expect in whatever directivity format you choose.
Art
A little suggestion: if you are using your printer a lot or use a lot of filament: check if the nozzle has worn out. They wear out, namely.I’ve been fighting my printer lately.
With TAD4002 (1,5 inch exit) I wonder if a ATH400 horn will work down to 6-700 hz in a compact living room setup. My midrange is TAD TM1201 (12 inch)?
And is it a existing adapter drawing who match?
It seems like the 1,5-2 inch adapter has an exit angle of 5,27 degrees? But I don’t know the exit angle in the driver.
And is it a existing adapter drawing who match?
It seems like the 1,5-2 inch adapter has an exit angle of 5,27 degrees? But I don’t know the exit angle in the driver.
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It will simply be around 5°. I would have to make a new adapter, which is not a problem. I think it should reach 600 - 700 Hz.
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Perfect. How deep will the horn+adapter be? Ca 32-33 cm is what I have space to (plus TAD 4002). All these enclosures will be hidden inside a low and 320 cm wide shelf with fabric in front. This horn is eos15.
The optimization is done (i.e. a 39 mm / 5° adapter for Gen2). I'll upload an STL soon.I would have to make a new adapter, which is not a problem.
OK, you can try: https://at-horns.eu/ext/T520-39-STD-1-TD4002.zip
(It's of course compatible with all the Gen2 horns.)
(It's of course compatible with all the Gen2 horns.)
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