Acoustic Horn Design – The Easy Way (Ath4)

[mabat]

For DFM-2535 there's the STD-3.

EXT-2 is rather for more tubular-exit drivers.

 

[Mitch311]

Thanks.

 

[miero]

For DFM-2535 there is a fully optimized horn, which you might want to use instead G2:
- https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/ath-a460-stl-kit

 

[Mitch311]

Sadly I can really only commit to getting one horn printed currently, so I went with the one that suits other drivers as well.

 

[zerokelvin99]

Hello all,

Is there a good resource or method for assessing polar plots of generic drivers (12" in my case) to compare against horn dispersion- in order to assess application suitability?

I am looking at purchasing the Tritonia M with a DE360 to go above a B&C 12CL76. LR24 XO at 1.2kHz as a start point. (The 12" will be running down to 50Hz, so CD excursion will be limited).

Kind regards,

 

[CoolJazz]

I'm about to start glueing my A400G2 together. I was wondering what the best approach was; glueing the petals together and glueing them to the base simultaneously, or only glue the petals, and when dried, glue the whole petal assembly to the base.
Any opinions on that?

 

[GlaxzarTheFormidable]

I had luck with the included jig. I drove a lag bolt thru it into a piece of wood and placed a ratchet strap around the widest point of the petals.

 

[mabat]

Unless your printed parts are perfectly accurate (unlikely), you really want to glue everything at once using a slow(ish) glue, so any inaccuracies spread out and not accumulate. (Gluing the petals one by one under the impression that everything is precise can lead to a very bad surprise when connecting the last two - been there.)

As for the base/petals connection, that's a lot more forgiving. The jig is there to help.

 

[Tom Kamphuys]

I did one (long time ago based on my own design) with slow glue and the jig and one with instant glue. I liked the instant glue better.

I first made two half's and then glued those together and then everything to the mouth.