It's just the basic "grid" (?) type in PrusaSlicer.
It's no proven setting, I hope it comes out fine. I don't normally use supports and try to design everything without the need, if possible. Here it was hard to avoid but it's still a pretty small part. This way it prints in one piece, which is always a nice thing.
It's no proven setting, I hope it comes out fine. I don't normally use supports and try to design everything without the need, if possible. Here it was hard to avoid but it's still a pretty small part. This way it prints in one piece, which is always a nice thing.
Just a remark for such overhangs: since a few prints I use special "interface for PetG" filament (in my case from Bambulabs). If you have dual extruder or multi-filament printer this can be used to seperate support from print. Both from same main material...only this interface (1-2layer everywhere it is connected) is from the other material. This reduced amount of filament changes and it peels of with a slight knock without any effort. The overhang surface looks very good afterwards... much better than without.
Fortunately, the overhangs here are all hidden, without any further function or any requirements on how they look. Otherwise, I would make it differently so no supports would be necessary.
This is also a possibility. All done in the slicer, including the alignment pins (I guess most slicers offer these features) -
I hate to be a bummer, but I've never had a midrange that rolled off that soon, that worked properly on a Unity horn.
When you select the "right" midrange, you should have flat-ish response to about 1500hz at least, and sometimes you can get to 1800Hz or even higher.
Your mids are rolling off more than an octave too early - at 700Hz.
I have't read all your posts, but usually I get response like yours when I use a midrange that has a QES that's too high.
In addition:
1) midrange taps that are too long can cause that, no matter what midrange you're using
2) there are a lot of good reasons to use a frustum or the like for a midrange tap, similar to the frustums in the Synergy Horns. (The Unity Horns used holes, the Synergy Horn 50 uses frustums.)
What midrange are you using?
Fantastic work, sir! Would you mind sharing a cooking recipe once you are happy with the results, please? A "MEH-izized" 460 might be a solution to the issues that some DFM-2535R00-08 from the group buy showed around 1khz.
Yet a bit different style of mounting, possible to print without supports in one piece.
I really like this one, finally, it should be (almost) without any hassle -
I really like this one, finally, it should be (almost) without any hassle -
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Small never stopped me before..
The Box Pro mcx4 coaxial have a 12,6mm throat.
The Box Pro mcx4 coaxial have a 12,6mm throat.
XS is adorable.
Ps... support settings not dialed in yet.
Here's the only good closeup of the SH-50 midrange ports I remember seeing. I'd call it a round hole nested in a round indention, for lack of a better term.
Were there different versions with different ports maybe?
To me, I think this would count as a frustrum since it does feature a decreasing cross sectional area toward the exit, although its only a series of 2 abrupt steps to achieve that. It may not matter too much though given the wavelengths the mid is producing. The midranges go to 1,350Hz with this design? That would put 1 wavelength at ~255mm and the larger indention looks about 40mm in diameter eyeballing it - so maybe no real acoustic advantage to a smooth transition other than reducing turbulence.
I would also guess that there are manufacturing constraints and having to use 2D machining toolpaths rather than a more complex/time consuming 3d contour.
I kind of think the same thing, and have tried to add recessed paths leading to port holes......without adding too much under cone volume.
Being still in the world of plywood, tis about all i can do ...
@Nissep, Yes, I remember that patent descript and also one talking about keeping the port length as short as possible.
Like galucha said about manufacturing constraints, I guess some parts of patent descriptions don't make it into real products..
I’m one of those, follow the patent kind of guys.. luckily a cnc did the geometry and not by hand tools.
Is that a real SH50 or DIY job?
The taps look quite far away from the corners.
Usually they are right on the join line between the two sides to get into the corner.
I don't know if stepped taps like that would sound great?
I follow the others I've seen dishing them.