Those accessories are not compatible with anything from Gen2. Those were made for the old(er) designs, I should probably remove it all together, as it's not really up to date.
It's almost finished.
Is it possible to design the horn for a 25cm full range driver? I’m just asking for a friend , thanks , it will be huge I know 🤣
Has anyone posted pictures of the assembly of a G2 horn or can point me to such, will be truly appreciated.
Yep. Check out the manual, there's information on how to simulate a source that isn't a compression driver.
Forane,
I haven't glued mine yet, but here is one assembly with the petals in place on the base with the assembly jig to show you how they go together:
I found that the petals need a little 'fettling' to fit snugly together. The indexing pins are a little bigger than the divots into which they fit so they cause a small but visible gap. I also get a couple of lumps on the mating surface that are consistent on every print, so I suspect they are artifacts of the slicer. A little filing and reaming with a drill bit let things fit together better. This all might vary depending on the slicer, printer and filament used. I plan on using Gorilla Glue Clear, which is non-foaming, and has enough open assembly time to allow everything to be placed in the jig.
I haven't glued mine yet, but here is one assembly with the petals in place on the base with the assembly jig to show you how they go together:
I found that the petals need a little 'fettling' to fit snugly together. The indexing pins are a little bigger than the divots into which they fit so they cause a small but visible gap. I also get a couple of lumps on the mating surface that are consistent on every print, so I suspect they are artifacts of the slicer. A little filing and reaming with a drill bit let things fit together better. This all might vary depending on the slicer, printer and filament used. I plan on using Gorilla Glue Clear, which is non-foaming, and has enough open assembly time to allow everything to be placed in the jig.
I'm a rank beginner when it comes to CAD, but I took a while this morning to try to design a horn mount that would fit the A460s. Here's a render from windows Print 3D:
The adapter barrel should be a close slip fit into the hole, and there are a couple of M8 setscrew holes to allow it to be snugged up and prevent rattling. We'll see how well the threads print.
It's made to screw into threaded inserts in the top of the woofer cabinet. If I got it right, it will give me close to a 1.2 wavelength driver spacing at 800 Hz, and allow the compression driver to be mounted very close to the correct offset for timing with the woofer. Maybe I should have slotted the holes for adjustment? The whole assembly is too tall for my printer, so I had to split it on the center line of the hole (175 mm up from the base) and add dowels for alignment. That was done in the slicer where I'm more comfortable. Pics of the real thing once it's printed, and if it works!
The adapter barrel should be a close slip fit into the hole, and there are a couple of M8 setscrew holes to allow it to be snugged up and prevent rattling. We'll see how well the threads print.
It's made to screw into threaded inserts in the top of the woofer cabinet. If I got it right, it will give me close to a 1.2 wavelength driver spacing at 800 Hz, and allow the compression driver to be mounted very close to the correct offset for timing with the woofer. Maybe I should have slotted the holes for adjustment? The whole assembly is too tall for my printer, so I had to split it on the center line of the hole (175 mm up from the base) and add dowels for alignment. That was done in the slicer where I'm more comfortable. Pics of the real thing once it's printed, and if it works!
Ok, understood. I was surprised as there was no indication of this in the datasheet, but maybe that's just due to excessive smoothing. PWT of CDX14-3055:
Very similar to PWT measurement of BMS 5530ND:
I would even doubt it's the right driver. Their graphs are often all over the place - different on the web and in various datasheets. It's best to ignore completely, IMO. How can you trust a picture named "CDX14-3055-PWT-Marketing-Curve.jpg"? 🙂
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I'm very much satisfied with that 🙂 But looking at making a loud version for parties. The current speaker struggles a bit with levels above 100 dB.
i actually opened this thread tonight to search what glues others have used! My plan was to use Gorilla Glue Clear, which is non-foaming unlike the original Gorilla Glue, but after a test I'm not sure it will hold. I'll know better tomorrow after a much longer cure. The foaming stuff can make a real mess if even slightly over-applied and can pieces apart.
Cyanoacrylate (Super glue) will bond PLA well, but won't fill gaps and doesn't allow for much assembly time so I don't think that will work for me.
Solvent glues (e.g. WeldOn/SciGrip 16, 3Dgloop) are supposed to give a strong bond, but I'm not excited about methylene chloride vapors.
I think that a 2-part epoxy may be my best bet. I'm open to suggestions!
Cyanoacrylate (Super glue) will bond PLA well, but won't fill gaps and doesn't allow for much assembly time so I don't think that will work for me.
Solvent glues (e.g. WeldOn/SciGrip 16, 3Dgloop) are supposed to give a strong bond, but I'm not excited about methylene chloride vapors.
I think that a 2-part epoxy may be my best bet. I'm open to suggestions!
I found that mabat is using Soudal Pro P45 which is a foaming polyurethane glue. The US equivalent appears to be the original Gorilla Glue. There is a white version of GG that might work for me as I'm using white PLA. I might get some of that to test and see if I can avoid it squeezing out too much.
Hm, I guess I am the only one who doesn't have much luck with the search function of the thread 🙁 I was told my print was done using PETG(obviously not so precise printing as yours) and I could use PVC glue, will look today what is available here.
I really have a good experience with the foaming stuff (polyurethane, e.g. BISON PU MAX). It will surely leak and make blobs on the outside, but those can be easily cut and sanded off once cured. I doesn't see that as an issue.
One note on the provided assembly jig - it's not meant to fix the petals together with a force (it can't), it's only for the overall alignment. You also need to fix it all together on the outside - either with a tape on the joints or something that you put around the mouth and perhaps tighten a bit.
One note on the provided assembly jig - it's not meant to fix the petals together with a force (it can't), it's only for the overall alignment. You also need to fix it all together on the outside - either with a tape on the joints or something that you put around the mouth and perhaps tighten a bit.
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This suggestion will sound strange, but "liquid nails for subfloors" is one of the adhesives I use constantly.
I began using it when @gedlee suggested using it for CLD construction, quite a few years back. It works well for that, but it also works well for just about everything.
As I understand it, Geddes said that this particular adhesive works well for CLD because it's still flexible after it dries.
My layman's description of why it works for me is because it behaves a lot like two-sided foam tape. That tape works because it's a sandwich of adhesive, then foam, and then adhesive. The foam improves the strength of the bond tremendously. With adhesives that dry hard, I often find that they're prone to delamination. I've found this to be particularly problematic with epoxies. The 3D print is porous enough that the epoxy just ends up soaking into the 3D print, and you can't bond anything to it.
The original Gorilla Glue works well too, but I like liquid nails for subfloors better because:
1) The cleanup is ridiculously easy. It's water based.
2) non-toxic
3) ridiculously affordable. Enough to last you a year will cost about $8-$10.
Note that everything I said here does NOT apply to the other types of liquid nails. The 'standard' liquid nails is a completely different kind of adhesive, than the one for subfloors is.
One last "cool" use for Liquid Nails for Subfloors, is that you can use it to make a 3D print airtight. When I've printed midbass enclosures on my 3D printer, the only way I could get them to perform correctly was if I made the print airtight.
A softer bond may also dampen bell like resonances so one should probably not be afraid of a cured softer glue!? Perhaps even calculate for a mm gap to be filled by "soft" but sturdy glue? Like e.g. Sikaflex 291i etc. if it attached to the used filament... I glued my concrete WG with this and it worked very well.
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Sounds just great! Is there a name or a brand that you like best so we can check around for something similar? Greatly appreciated!