This is the Tritonia-S simulated with the provided default Ath code.
So anyone can simulate the waveguide in an enclosure of their own choice, or even try to optimize one.
This is available without buying the kit, so you know what you get.
So anyone can simulate the waveguide in an enclosure of their own choice, or even try to optimize one.
This is available without buying the kit, so you know what you get.
I made now a LF horn matching the 460G2. Modeled with the drivers curvature. Using ATH made this a fast proceeding task ;-)
I want to simulate with this in Akabak for XO and overall performance.. Before I mesh it with GMesh I need to draw the interfaces. But....where to place them? 1 interface or 2? Until now I only had one driver/horn....
I want to simulate with this in Akabak for XO and overall performance.. Before I mesh it with GMesh I need to draw the interfaces. But....where to place them? 1 interface or 2? Until now I only had one driver/horn....
All horns are elliptical although wireframe looks normal. The same issue with tritonia.
The other question is what file ath should export that I can use with fusion? None of them work and I haven't find any way to export csv. How should I make them?
The other question is what file ath should export that I can use with fusion? None of them work and I haven't find any way to export csv. How should I make them?
That's crazy, the grey solid surface seems to have a different vertical scale than the wireframe. I really can't see how this happens.
- This is how it should look like, but I have no idea why you don't get at the same results.
- This is how it should look like, but I have no idea why you don't get at the same results.
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I’ve reinstalled abec and also uninstalled akabak but it didn’t reset settings. I’ve only changed how many cpu cores it can use so it shouldn’t matter. Do you know where’s preference file located?
What about exporting to fusion? What file should I use?
What about exporting to fusion? What file should I use?
All horns are elliptical although wireframe looks normal. The same issue with tritonia.
The other question is what file ath should export that I can use with fusion? None of them work and I haven't find any way to export csv. How should I make them?
Looks like it could be graphics card related. If you've already reinstalled ABEC, maybe try updating your graphics card driver?
To get the .CSV export for fusion, add this to your script:
GridExport:throat = {
ExportSlices = 1
Scale = 0.1
Delimiter = ";"
FileExtension = "csv"
SeparateFiles = 0
}
It’s win11 on VMware. I’ll try if some settings makes difference. Is it only about how things look and calculations are correct? I could only use wireframe and live with it if it doesn’t matter to anything.
Tritonia-S + RCF NDX595 (raw free-air)
(Some random off-axis angles in 10-40 deg; not actual SPL)
(Some random off-axis angles in 10-40 deg; not actual SPL)
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You would need to try.Is it only about how things look and calculations are correct?
Tritonia-S + B&C DE360 (raw free-air)
(random off-axis angles; not actual SPL)
Probably could be made to sound very very good.
(random off-axis angles; not actual SPL)
Probably could be made to sound very very good.
mabat,
I hope a digression into practicalities is OK in this thread. I have my first 3D printer on order, and have been trying to educate myself in anticipation of building a set of A460's to go with the Tymphany drivers from the group buy. I ran across this Reddit post, and thought that this type of snap-together alignment pin might making accurate assembly of the petals easy:
Ball and socket joint
My imagination tells me that a couple of these along the edge would be enough to align the parts accurately, and hold them together while the glue dried without tape or clamps. I'm useless with CAD (that's a future phase of my self-education), but it wouldn't seem all that hard to implement.
Thanks for all the work you have done to advance the state of the art!
I hope a digression into practicalities is OK in this thread. I have my first 3D printer on order, and have been trying to educate myself in anticipation of building a set of A460's to go with the Tymphany drivers from the group buy. I ran across this Reddit post, and thought that this type of snap-together alignment pin might making accurate assembly of the petals easy:
Ball and socket joint
My imagination tells me that a couple of these along the edge would be enough to align the parts accurately, and hold them together while the glue dried without tape or clamps. I'm useless with CAD (that's a future phase of my self-education), but it wouldn't seem all that hard to implement.
Thanks for all the work you have done to advance the state of the art!
Hi Olombo,I made now a LF horn matching the 460G2. Modeled with the drivers curvature. Using ATH made this a fast proceeding task ;-)
I want to simulate with this in Akabak for XO and overall performance.. Before I mesh it with GMesh I need to draw the interfaces. But....where to place them? 1 interface or 2? Until now I only had one driver/horn....
View attachment 1412338
View attachment 1412339
That looks like a very interesting project. What is the target frequency range?
As for interfaces, I’ve had success not using them for horns.
Hi
I had no luck with and without interface. Something still wrong but ongoing.
80Hz-my ears HF Limit.
I had no luck with and without interface. Something still wrong but ongoing.
80Hz-my ears HF Limit.
Well, printing and gluing the 460G2 was easier than I was expecting. Am now waiting for the SBA Rosso CD and will need to design an build a stand so I can test it out.
Things to note:
Achieving good test results is critical for me to proceed to building the case for the woofer.
Things to note:
- there is a little bit of shrinkage in the petals so they do not fit perfectly together. This could be my fault or a characteristic of 3d printing PLA. It did have the benefit of making fitting a little easier!
- I needed to print another part for the assembly jig to hold the petals in place (is the cap with the wing nut next to the horn)
- Slow acting epoxy, the slower the better, is the way to go.
Achieving good test results is critical for me to proceed to building the case for the woofer.
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