Acoustic Horn Design – The Easy Way (Ath4)

Flat joint -

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From the documentation:

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It may seem unintuitive. But I think it's the same reason why a PWT must be dampened very gradually even with a good absorber for a reflection not to happen, right?

-Oh, wait a minute. I think I could simulate an infinite tube by placing a perfect absorber at the end of it?! 😕
 

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Promotion. Should I understand it that you plan to sell your designs, make custom ones or even sell ready made horns? That would be really cool! I'd definitely buy some🙂
I want to acquire my own tooling, just because I like the idea, but what will I be able to make and offer, that's still to be seen. I can offer any design right away.
- I'm already rebuilding a pottery wheel for mold making 🙂

Frankly, with the latest advancements in the free standing axisymmetric designs, I really feel I have something special now. It would be a pity not to be able to make some money on that. Maybe making whole finished speakers would make the most sense but I'm not sure I want to go that route.
 
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It may seem unintuitive. But I think it's the same reason why a PWT must be dampened very gradually even with a good absorber for a reflection not to happen, right?

-Oh, wait a minute. I think I could simulate an infinite tube by placing a perfect absorber at the end of it?! 😕

The problem is the difference between "real" absorbers and software "infinite absorption". In software it's just a condition placed on a set of nodes, but in reality that can never be accomplished. Hence, you might get results that are completely "unintuitive" because they are completely impossible in reality.
 
I want to acquire my own tooling, just because I like the idea, but what will I be able to make and offer, that's still to be seen. I can offer any design right away.
- I'm already rebuilding a pottery wheel for mold making 🙂

Honestly, having a mold cut in a dense polyurethane stacked boards at a CNC shop is the way to go. Being soft"ish" poly is not so rough on the cutters as steel or aluminum so it should not cost too much - it goes fast. But I did cut my first molds on a lathe, that worked well for awhile, but got untenable with larger devices.
 
By unintuitive I meant what you said, that "a perfect absorber would also be a near perfect reflector". I still don't quite understand what's happening in the simulations above. I used perfectly absorbing BEM elements before and there really wasn't any reflection I think, for example when it was used as a "cover" of a waveguide. Now it seems to behave differently but it's still not clear to me why. All I can see is that the contour is not well terminated, somehow.
 
Honestly, having a mold cut in a dense polyurethane stacked boards at a CNC shop is the way to go. Being soft"ish" poly is not so rough on the cutters as steel or aluminum so it should not cost too much - it goes fast. But I did cut my first molds on a lathe, that worked well for awhile, but got untenable with larger devices.
Thanks, it's quite possible I will end up with that. My current (still a lot cheaper) plan is to use an epoxy coated XPS ("Styrofoam"). It should stay fairly flexible. I want to try a slow epoxy for casting, it cures at the normal (room) temperature. It may take days to set but I don't mind (yet).
 
Honestly, having a mold cut in a dense polyurethane stacked boards at a CNC shop is the way to go. Being soft"ish" poly is not so rough on the cutters as steel or aluminum so it should not cost too much - it goes fast. But I did cut my first molds on a lathe, that worked well for awhile, but got untenable with larger devices.

What shore hardness is dense and softish?
 
However good that may look, I think there would be even a better option. Personally, I would make it smaller, a little bit less CD with a smoother overall DI curve, use a good 1.4" driver and cross it lower than what would be possible with a 1" driver. Together with a smaller woofer, like 12" (could be 15" if needed), I think the performace would be absolutely stellar.

BTW, the waveguide above is only 127 mm (5") deep.
 
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However good that may look, I think there would be even a better option. Personally, I would make it smaller, a little bit less CD with a smoother overall DI curve, use a good 1.4" driver and cross it lower than what would be possible with a 1" driver. Together with a smaller woofer, like 12" (could be 15" if needed), I think the performace would be absolutely stellar.

BTW, the waveguide above is only 127 mm (5") deep.

Ok, perhaps you did already show such a creation? If not, please do.

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