I used a drum stick to tap around on the board and sound came back on so thanks for the suggestion! Glad you got me to get check the board again. I had thought about about the increased volume increasing the voltage getting the sound to kick in so thought that there was a bad solder joint but after I soldered the loose stator wire socket and still had issues it threw me off especially with the talk how debris may be in the panel.
It seem the issue had temporarily went away the first time I inspected the board from moving it around. Now it is clear there is a bad connection somewhere on the board but the issue has gone away again after tapping on it so I’m going to wait until the problem comes back to take out the board and further inspect it.
Maybe this is the problem
@AcoustatAnswerMan
Was the Pro5000 designed by Jim ?
The pro5000 was sold for $1500 in 1991 and the 9505 was $2200
The XL-600 was $1100
Was the Pro5000 designed by Jim ?
The pro5000 was sold for $1500 in 1991 and the 9505 was $2200
The XL-600 was $1100
All of the "PRO" models offered by Hafler/Rockford were outgrowths of the Transova design, which itself was an evolutionary step forward from the original Acoustat TNT amplifiers. So yes, Jim Strickland was involved, but others may have been more directly involved with the development of specific models.
The pro5000 is based on the Xl design rather than the Transnova
I wonder if the pro5000 is a improvement on the XL-600
It was more expensive
I wonder if the pro5000 is a improvement on the XL-600
It was more expensive
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Yeah, that sounds about right. It's been too many years: I'll stick to answering questions about Acoustat loudspeaker models.
Hey @AcoustatAnswerMan just stumbled on this thread. I recall a model 8' tall maybe 10-12" wide, am I crazy? Is that the 1+1? Thomas Dolby's "Mulu the Rain Forest" sounded really amazing through those.
Yes, all of them. James Strickland, George Rocheleau, Carlos Castrejon, and Mark Albers. I think Mark is the only one remaining at Rockford.
@AcoustatAnswerMan Do you know how the felt pads on the rear of the panels were originally attached? I assume some sort of glue- do you know the maker/name/type used? Thanks and happy holidays!
It's been a long time (30+ years), but if memory serves correctly, Acoustat used 3M 4693 contact adhesive. I don't know if that's still available, or if it can be bought in retail quantities. You can also use 3M 77 in a spray can, which is still available in retail packages. Like any contact adhesive, spray a layer on the felt, wait for it to tack-up, and then press into place on the panel.
Agree with Mr. AAM's reply for the adhesive "3M 77", it works great.
3M 77 (mine came in a 430 ml spray can) is what I used to reattach the rear felt pads during the extensive restoration of my Acoustat Model 2s, as I had to remove the rear felt pads to gain access to the stator wire glue joints needing repair.
"Acoustat Stator Wire Repair: Hints and Lessons Learned"
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/acoustat-stator-wire-repair-hints-and-lessons-learned.404881/
Preparation is important. Maybe common sense, just to share a few hints/precautions that worked for me.
Following these procedures the 3M 77 adhesive worked great, pleased to report the felt pads remain intact long after the restoration.
Thank you,
John
3M 77 (mine came in a 430 ml spray can) is what I used to reattach the rear felt pads during the extensive restoration of my Acoustat Model 2s, as I had to remove the rear felt pads to gain access to the stator wire glue joints needing repair.
"Acoustat Stator Wire Repair: Hints and Lessons Learned"
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/acoustat-stator-wire-repair-hints-and-lessons-learned.404881/
Preparation is important. Maybe common sense, just to share a few hints/precautions that worked for me.
- Carefully remove any bits of felt remaining stuck to the rear lattice frame and vacuum clean afterward. Likewise pick off any bits of old glue stuck to the felt pads.
- As the felt pads can have different sizes, before applying the 3M 77 suggest placing each felt pad in its assigned location and marking the perimeters on the lattice frame with masking tape - you don't want to be moving pads around when the adhesive is curing.
- Per 3M's safety instructions, the work area must be well ventilated.
- Do only one pad at a time as the adhesive can set quickly.
- To prevent spraying adhesive on unwanted surfaces, place the felt pad on top of an old newspaper or other disposable material before spraying.
- When the adhesive becomes tacky, to hold each felt pad pressed against the rear lattice frame for a few minutes until the adhesive sets.
- When finished, remove the masking tape from the lattice frames.
Following these procedures the 3M 77 adhesive worked great, pleased to report the felt pads remain intact long after the restoration.
Thank you,
John
Hello,
I'm thinking of buying a Spectra 22 with MK-2123 Interface and convert it to a Spectra 33 by adding a panel from my one+ones.
According to the above it should be possible.
One question left: what do I have to change
"But I do recommend changing the bass tap if converting to a 3-panel system, otherwise you'll likely have too much bass."?
is there some sort of example or diagram, showing how to rewire?
Thanks a lot.
Found one:
So one+one panel goes to black/black at the right side of picture? What about polarity?
So one+one panel goes to black/black at the right side of picture? What about polarity?
The additional panel you are adding will be LF only and will connect to the Black Terminals. In regards to polarity, the rear stator gets connected to the BLUE set, and the front stator gets connected to the White set. Note the panel does not necessarily need to be a segmented Spectra panel, as it will be driven equally over its entire surface.
And yes, the LF tap should be changed. It's a real pain, so try it first without changing the tap. Otherwise, changing the tap requires significant disassembly of the interface to access the two red and two orange wires (red for 2 panels, orange for 3 panels).
And yes, the LF tap should be changed. It's a real pain, so try it first without changing the tap. Otherwise, changing the tap requires significant disassembly of the interface to access the two red and two orange wires (red for 2 panels, orange for 3 panels).