I once called Acoustat with a question about my 1+1's.
I got xfered to Jim Strickland. I had a good long talk with Jim. I was impressed that he would take a call from a neurotic audiophile asking weenie questions. I bet questions he has answered hundreds of times before.
I just finished rebuilding my Spectra 6600's with all new frames and bases. For the bases, I did something a bit different in an effort to add strength...
First, I had a plate of 1/8" steel cut an inch shorter in width and length than the finished base. I had tee nuts welded to this plate. Then I had a second, smaller plate of 1/8" steel cut with a hole pattern that matched the tee nut locations. I bolted the small plate to the bottom of the interface. I then cut a solid, 3/4" oak plank, made up of strips of oak, to the finished base size, drilled holes to match the tee nuts. I placed this oak plank on top of the large steel plate then put the smaller steel plate with the interface attached on top of the oak plank, sandwiching the oak plank between the steel plates, then bolted them together. I ended up cutting the oak plank about 1" shorter in length and width, and planing it to 5/8" before sandwiching it. I then glued on strips to the back edge and sides which where L shaped to cover the top and side edges of the bottom plate. I did the same for the front edge except I used several neo magnets countersunk into to oak strip so that I could remove it if I have to de attach the speaker itself from the interface in the future. Worked out great and the steel plate slides easily on the concrete floor.
Those who are observant will notice the 1/4" thick angle brackets I added to each side of the interface, made from cut sections of 6"x6" 1/4" steel angle.
First, I had a plate of 1/8" steel cut an inch shorter in width and length than the finished base. I had tee nuts welded to this plate. Then I had a second, smaller plate of 1/8" steel cut with a hole pattern that matched the tee nut locations. I bolted the small plate to the bottom of the interface. I then cut a solid, 3/4" oak plank, made up of strips of oak, to the finished base size, drilled holes to match the tee nuts. I placed this oak plank on top of the large steel plate then put the smaller steel plate with the interface attached on top of the oak plank, sandwiching the oak plank between the steel plates, then bolted them together. I ended up cutting the oak plank about 1" shorter in length and width, and planing it to 5/8" before sandwiching it. I then glued on strips to the back edge and sides which where L shaped to cover the top and side edges of the bottom plate. I did the same for the front edge except I used several neo magnets countersunk into to oak strip so that I could remove it if I have to de attach the speaker itself from the interface in the future. Worked out great and the steel plate slides easily on the concrete floor.
Those who are observant will notice the 1/4" thick angle brackets I added to each side of the interface, made from cut sections of 6"x6" 1/4" steel angle.
Attachments
As a former cabinet builder, carpenter, etc. I have some experience with wood. If you seal the wood before it warps with a couple coats it is much less likely to warp or crack. Oak is pretty stiff so may not warp even under the conditions described. If you have a choice go with thicker wood as even 1/4" (6mm+) more makes it a LOT stiffer.
Also let the piece of wood acclimate for a couple weeks before you do much with it. If it was locally sourced, not shipped in from a different climate, then you could plane it if needed and cut it to size, as these actions sometimes lead to an immediate warping, which you want to know sooner. Then I would lean it against an interior wall so that it gets air with your home's moisture content on both sides of it. But not near a bathroom or kitchen, and not where sunlight hits it.
I would be more cautious if you change climates such as from desert Southwest to a humid climate or vice versa. Over time it will absorb or give off some moisture which might lead to cracking or warping especially if one side is not exposed and the other is. I suppose you could put strips of wood such as 1x2 under it to prop it up for a couple months if you move.
Hope this helps.
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Loving them! I am using a set of subwoofers for some really impressive bass, crossing them over at 60Hz. I am adding room treatments and plan to dial everything in with dsp, both the crossovers as well as speaker and room correction. I also plan to add 2 more subwoofers to get some distributed bass benefits. Not there yet but working on it. Hopefully by the end of Spring! Thanks for all of your help!