I understood what you meant, it was me who wrote it backwards! 
Why cardoids work better than dipoles and monopoles placed close to a front wall is kind of obvious, and that is the whole reason I want to use the concept. In my room the speaker will have to be fairly close to the wall.
I was just curious about how you found out that keeping the back sealed and only have holes to the sides worked better when close to the front-wall. But I guess you kind of answered it. I can just measure the speaker outside facing upwards with a distance similar to what I have in the listening room and then see how different layouts affect the response.
I believe the cardoid pattern won't have very much impact on sidewall reflections since they don't attenuate that much to the sides. But as someone said; don't let perfect be the enemy of good.
thanks again
Why cardoids work better than dipoles and monopoles placed close to a front wall is kind of obvious, and that is the whole reason I want to use the concept. In my room the speaker will have to be fairly close to the wall.
I was just curious about how you found out that keeping the back sealed and only have holes to the sides worked better when close to the front-wall. But I guess you kind of answered it. I can just measure the speaker outside facing upwards with a distance similar to what I have in the listening room and then see how different layouts affect the response.
I believe the cardoid pattern won't have very much impact on sidewall reflections since they don't attenuate that much to the sides. But as someone said; don't let perfect be the enemy of good.
thanks again
Okey, that sounds reasonable... I guess a shallow waveguide with a dometweeter would be quite close to that. And in many situations that would be a really good design.
But for my own personal taste and listening room I prefer greater directivity, especially from 800-8kHz to significantly lower first reflections in level, so I'll be using a more directive waveguide/horn.
But for my own personal taste and listening room I prefer greater directivity, especially from 800-8kHz to significantly lower first reflections in level, so I'll be using a more directive waveguide/horn.
And how does perforating the U-baffle solve the problems inherent to the U-baffle?
More to come. I'll copy the first post later and I'll add the images at the right spot.
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This was the first cardioid speaker I ever built. Since then I learned a lot about how to optimize them. The reduction in loudness relative to the front can be improved considerably in comparison to this speaker. Since then I started a business called Dutch & Dutch. Here you can find some technical information about the 8c, including measurements.
EDIT: I see now that the images have very low resolution. I'll have to fix it later.
EDIT: I see now that the images have very low resolution. I'll have to fix it later.
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Would you care to share some tips on controlling the front wave relative to the back wave?
Ps your product in that link looks excellent
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