Bach On - looks good. But if some of us keep on suggesting minor final issues I'm sure we'll come on one you haven't thought of first.
Putting the driver on a removeable motorboard (just a square piece of wood that is then screwed to the box with a little bit of weather-stripping*) will give you flexibility you might be glad to have later on, not to mention reducing the effort to move the box. Terminals and all can be on the motorboard.
Cross-bracing can be as simple as a rod (I've used electrical conduit) screwed and epoxyed in place. Never can have too much.
Ben
*Maybe a Canadian poster can send you some weatherstripping.
Putting the driver on a removeable motorboard (just a square piece of wood that is then screwed to the box with a little bit of weather-stripping*) will give you flexibility you might be glad to have later on, not to mention reducing the effort to move the box. Terminals and all can be on the motorboard.
Cross-bracing can be as simple as a rod (I've used electrical conduit) screwed and epoxyed in place. Never can have too much.
Ben
*Maybe a Canadian poster can send you some weatherstripping.
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This guy thinks it is fine. I post things for everyones benefit, not to make light of the design work of Oliver or the construction skills of Bach On.
There has been more thought and advice put into this than many commercial offerings. I'm thinking it will indeed be an interesting application.
I used to sit a large cinderblock on top of my Klipschorn bass and subs are good shelves for your wine rack if heavy. And something to be said for screwing the cabinet to the floor as even better move. I have my giant OB screwed to the wall studs (also to ensure a good seal on some of the edges). Doubly true if aiming for 16 Hz.
Ah, the big speaker in the swellbox. Hope it is a two-pie box.
Ben
Ah, the big speaker in the swellbox. Hope it is a two-pie box.
Ben
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Hi Bach On,
Keep the pictures coming.
I have one suggestion for the port/vent/duct inlet, that is to support the edge that is now just a board, and round of the inside inlet edge before you finish glueing all this together. The exit looks good. Keep the polyfill away from the inlet, while it is probably not affecting anything, you just don't want any fill/stuffing between the driver and the port (or, at this time, in the port).
Regards,
Keep the pictures coming.
I have one suggestion for the port/vent/duct inlet, that is to support the edge that is now just a board, and round of the inside inlet edge before you finish glueing all this together. The exit looks good. Keep the polyfill away from the inlet, while it is probably not affecting anything, you just don't want any fill/stuffing between the driver and the port (or, at this time, in the port).
Regards,
Attachments
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Hmm. Getting that support in there firmly is going to be tough. My body is a bit large for that narrow triangular box. But I'll see what I can do. Removing the batting adjacent to the port is much easier.
Bach On
Too many grits.
BTW, The Stereo Integrity HT18 just arrived. The bad part is I don't have time right now to play with it.
Bach On
BTW, The Stereo Integrity HT18 just arrived. The bad part is I don't have time right now to play with it.
Bach On
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Hi Bach On,
Great that the driver finally arrived! It makes building the speaker so much easier. ;-) Do you have any way to measure the T/S parameters?
Regards,
Great that the driver finally arrived! It makes building the speaker so much easier. ;-) Do you have any way to measure the T/S parameters?
Regards,
Finally got the new driver from Stereo Integrity today. This one is the HT18. I updated my order to the version with dual 2 ohm voice coils. The dual 4 ohm version won't ship until sometime in July. The coffee cup and pen are there to give it perspective. This thing weighs in at 37 pounds. It has a 21 mm Xmax and is rated at 600 watts RMS. The cost was $174 - which seems to be a very good deal.
Here's a picture of the side of the thing. Notice the speaker surround is raised almost an inch and a half above the frame. And the distance to the rear of the motor is nine and a half inches.
The electrical connections look pretty serious to me. You could even fit those Monster cables in the connectors.
The rubber surround is actually double stitched to the cone.
With company coming, I won't get a chance to put this thing in it's place until sometime after the weekend. And I've got to make that modification Oliver suggested before I can do it. But, I thought you guys might like to see the new toy.
Bach On
Here's a picture of the side of the thing. Notice the speaker surround is raised almost an inch and a half above the frame. And the distance to the rear of the motor is nine and a half inches.
The electrical connections look pretty serious to me. You could even fit those Monster cables in the connectors.
The rubber surround is actually double stitched to the cone.
With company coming, I won't get a chance to put this thing in it's place until sometime after the weekend. And I've got to make that modification Oliver suggested before I can do it. But, I thought you guys might like to see the new toy.
Bach On
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Hi Bach On,
Nice pictures. You'll need some help mounting this one, and you'll need some protection for that protruding surround.
Regards,
Nice pictures. You'll need some help mounting this one, and you'll need some protection for that protruding surround.
Regards,
Motorboard?
You can have a little cleat on the face panel to hold the board in place while starting the screws. It would rest just fine with the magnet weight pulling inwards. Tee-nuts would be right.
Various advantages to using a torque wrench for the tightening and going in rotation, as an automotive hobbyist could attest.
Ben
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Duuuuhhhhhhh!!!
I was racking my brain on how to get that internal support in there for behind the speaker without having to go through grits withdrawell. Then I went out and started thinking about how to cut the opening and install the speaker and suddenly -----BING!!! 😱
I can cut the opening for the driver, then reach right in and put that support in position. The location for that support will be right there.
And yes, that 1 1/2 inch protruding surround will have to be dealt with. I think I'll use something like 1x2s around that square panel. Then the nylon screening can be stretched across the entire square. I'll just have to make sure the clearance is sufficient so the surround doesn't touch the screen.
Bach On
I was racking my brain on how to get that internal support in there for behind the speaker without having to go through grits withdrawell. Then I went out and started thinking about how to cut the opening and install the speaker and suddenly -----BING!!! 😱
I can cut the opening for the driver, then reach right in and put that support in position. The location for that support will be right there.
And yes, that 1 1/2 inch protruding surround will have to be dealt with. I think I'll use something like 1x2s around that square panel. Then the nylon screening can be stretched across the entire square. I'll just have to make sure the clearance is sufficient so the surround doesn't touch the screen.
Bach On
Hi Bach On,
Looking back @ Post #598, 20th May 2015, you'll find some suggestions in the attached pdf as to the dimensions for a driver grill/cover, looks like that guess @ the dimensions still holds.
Regards,
Looking back @ Post #598, 20th May 2015, you'll find some suggestions in the attached pdf as to the dimensions for a driver grill/cover, looks like that guess @ the dimensions still holds.
Regards,
If I remember rightly, this thing is going into a room where nobody will see it, and once completed, nobody will go there except for servicing the equipment. Why bother with a grill/cover? It's not going to improve the sound, may not hurt sound, and only add more stuff to do...
Hi jplesset,
It's going to be squeezed into a corner next to the access door, and thus most definitely just next to the path into the loft. I'd protect that driver.
Regards,
It's going to be squeezed into a corner next to the access door, and thus most definitely just next to the path into the loft. I'd protect that driver.
Regards,
Motorboard and stapled-on "hardware cloth" (which is steel mesh on quarter-inch spacing kind of like industrial-grade chicken wire).
Not feasible to install very heavy driver in an upright cabinet in an organ loft without first mounting it on a motorboard.... unless you have a real long double-jointed arm you can put through the port to hold the backside of the driver while.....
Ben
Not feasible to install very heavy driver in an upright cabinet in an organ loft without first mounting it on a motorboard.... unless you have a real long double-jointed arm you can put through the port to hold the backside of the driver while.....
Ben
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