How is the Tang Bang bamboo in real life listening test, please ? Too bad they don't give the off axis curves... A pretty driver but in the same league price than the Scan !
I have the W5-2143 which also has bamboo fiber cone. It sounds great - one of the best fullrange drivers at any price and capable of real bass down to 50Hz. The W3-1878 here we will have to wait until Vunce tells us how the experiment worked out.
Yes, he has some nice DACs and nice low noise PSUs to go with them. But that’s another story 🙂
Hey Diyiggy, good to hear from you over here 😉
I remembered I had a pair of these TB W3-1878 drivers packed away for several years and decided to break them out for an experiment. They have a large magnet for their size but fit in the existing SS10F hole without hitting the internal sports cone sealed chamber. Even though the spec sheet says they are slightly more efficient than the SS10F, their volume is definitely lower with the stock XO. The right speaker has the SS10F still installed. For a quick and easy fix I lowered this channel by 5dB so I can listen without being so skewed to the right.
The W3-1878 actually doesn’t sound bad at all in this setup. It has more of a laid back sound than the SS10F. I really need to tweak the XO resistors for a better match.
Hi X,
I think your referring to my sad case of “Regulitus”.
I remembered I had a pair of these TB W3-1878 drivers packed away for several years and decided to break them out for an experiment. They have a large magnet for their size but fit in the existing SS10F hole without hitting the internal sports cone sealed chamber. Even though the spec sheet says they are slightly more efficient than the SS10F, their volume is definitely lower with the stock XO. The right speaker has the SS10F still installed. For a quick and easy fix I lowered this channel by 5dB so I can listen without being so skewed to the right.
The W3-1878 actually doesn’t sound bad at all in this setup. It has more of a laid back sound than the SS10F. I really need to tweak the XO resistors for a better match.
Hi X,
I think your referring to my sad case of “Regulitus”.
Sorry to interrupt 🙂
but i just bought a pair of sb15nbac-8 for an attempt to a miniature version of this speaker. So far in bare wood baffle+ 10L cardboard box, sound is quite detailed and transparent and not harch at all....even syrupy, albeit maybe a LITTLE «cold».... and no «slopiness» detected...and i still have some bass! ... i will update once i made meaningful stride (buying a microphone is next). obviously not for fullrange duty with that resonance peak!
any suggestion for a beginners'microphone is welcome 🙂
but i just bought a pair of sb15nbac-8 for an attempt to a miniature version of this speaker. So far in bare wood baffle+ 10L cardboard box, sound is quite detailed and transparent and not harch at all....even syrupy, albeit maybe a LITTLE «cold».... and no «slopiness» detected...and i still have some bass! ... i will update once i made meaningful stride (buying a microphone is next). obviously not for fullrange duty with that resonance peak!
any suggestion for a beginners'microphone is welcome 🙂
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Interesting driver - never knew SB made an aluminum 5in mid bass.
I use the USB connected UMIK-1 (miniDSP) but calibrated by third party company for a little extra.
Do a search for Cross Spectrum Labs. They also offer a traditional XLR mic that needs a mic preamp and 48v phantom power. Which means you need to use an audio interface like a Focusrite or Behringer USB audio interface.
These mics will run you about $100. You can also get a $5 Panasonic WM-61A capsule and make your own mic and preamp. But not worth the hassle. It’s a tool you use all the time and needs to be rugged and reliable.
There are $20 smart phone mics but then you can’t use REW to measure. The REW software is key.
I use the USB connected UMIK-1 (miniDSP) but calibrated by third party company for a little extra.
Do a search for Cross Spectrum Labs. They also offer a traditional XLR mic that needs a mic preamp and 48v phantom power. Which means you need to use an audio interface like a Focusrite or Behringer USB audio interface.
These mics will run you about $100. You can also get a $5 Panasonic WM-61A capsule and make your own mic and preamp. But not worth the hassle. It’s a tool you use all the time and needs to be rugged and reliable.
There are $20 smart phone mics but then you can’t use REW to measure. The REW software is key.
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SB makes this chassis for multitude of cone material, even ceramic! (coating)
thanks for the tips for microphone. I,m aiming for something around 100 CAD preferably. i saw a Behringer one too that may be interesting.
thanks for the tips for microphone. I,m aiming for something around 100 CAD preferably. i saw a Behringer one too that may be interesting.
A small update.
Slow progress but have managed to grab a bit of time for the build.
One crossover built, just need to finish off the input and output leads.
I succumbed to the PS95s aesthetics and they came back in stock on Amazon UK via the importer so I took the plunge. They will look a heap better than the 3fe22 but I shall try both. The 95s i notice are slightly off centre with regards the phase plug. Hope it isnt an issue.
Started some work on an enclosure too. Couldn't decide how to tackle the baffle but in the end I cut the existing one off, leaving enough to fix my new one to. I will probably use some kind of rubber gasket to attempt to isolate the drivers from the box. I think my bracing was a waste of time as its bendy! Didn't want to go too thick to pinch too much volume as I am already a bit smaller than the 22litres of the proper design. Doing a knuckle wrap test though the brace doesn't seem to have achieved a fat lot. I have some Noico bitumen sheets and eggcrate foam to go in.
Enjoying the build so far....the crossover is testing my ability to read schematics somewhat at times. And I learnt something just today....if you turn your fancy soldering iron up to 400+ it will actually solder thick wires nicely!
Slow progress but have managed to grab a bit of time for the build.
One crossover built, just need to finish off the input and output leads.
I succumbed to the PS95s aesthetics and they came back in stock on Amazon UK via the importer so I took the plunge. They will look a heap better than the 3fe22 but I shall try both. The 95s i notice are slightly off centre with regards the phase plug. Hope it isnt an issue.
Started some work on an enclosure too. Couldn't decide how to tackle the baffle but in the end I cut the existing one off, leaving enough to fix my new one to. I will probably use some kind of rubber gasket to attempt to isolate the drivers from the box. I think my bracing was a waste of time as its bendy! Didn't want to go too thick to pinch too much volume as I am already a bit smaller than the 22litres of the proper design. Doing a knuckle wrap test though the brace doesn't seem to have achieved a fat lot. I have some Noico bitumen sheets and eggcrate foam to go in.
Enjoying the build so far....the crossover is testing my ability to read schematics somewhat at times. And I learnt something just today....if you turn your fancy soldering iron up to 400+ it will actually solder thick wires nicely!
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RS225-4, TC9, AMT Mini
Crown DCI 8|300da for now, we'll see if sticks around. No passive crossovers, too expensive 😀
I strayed a bit and added tweeters, but I figured the post still belongs here. I don't have the luxury of aiming the boxes with this setup, so I figured I need the HF coverage. The AMTs seem to sound good, but frequency response is pretty unusable without DSP (also, both are different, and neither matches the spec response). I'm using DSP, not a problem. Crossing at 4k for now. I'll give some impressions after comparing different crossover points and TC9s alone.
Box is a little undersized, I'd imagine the bass is a little less tight than it could be. No problem getting bass to go low and loud enough. Of course, I'm also effectively infinite baffle (on the left side...) Boxes sound good, room is fairly bad.
Strange placement is based on baffle diffraction simulation, the extra spacing is obviously not ideal for lobing though. I can do brickwall crossovers to minimize the lobing, still experimenting with options. Right now I'm at something like 64db/ocatave linear phase LR, with phase response mostly flat above about 200hz and some correction below that.
I got a dynavox LY302F to compare once I'm satisfied with the tuning as is. Looks like it should fit the TC9 cutout and screw holes for an easy swap.
Crown DCI 8|300da for now, we'll see if sticks around. No passive crossovers, too expensive 😀
I strayed a bit and added tweeters, but I figured the post still belongs here. I don't have the luxury of aiming the boxes with this setup, so I figured I need the HF coverage. The AMTs seem to sound good, but frequency response is pretty unusable without DSP (also, both are different, and neither matches the spec response). I'm using DSP, not a problem. Crossing at 4k for now. I'll give some impressions after comparing different crossover points and TC9s alone.
Box is a little undersized, I'd imagine the bass is a little less tight than it could be. No problem getting bass to go low and loud enough. Of course, I'm also effectively infinite baffle (on the left side...) Boxes sound good, room is fairly bad.
Strange placement is based on baffle diffraction simulation, the extra spacing is obviously not ideal for lobing though. I can do brickwall crossovers to minimize the lobing, still experimenting with options. Right now I'm at something like 64db/ocatave linear phase LR, with phase response mostly flat above about 200hz and some correction below that.
I got a dynavox LY302F to compare once I'm satisfied with the tuning as is. Looks like it should fit the TC9 cutout and screw holes for an easy swap.
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I think i know why I have issues with these(RS225-4 & RS100-8) this is sweep today. Even with inverted RS100 still drops like a tone of bricks. Went over Xo 5 times and its all the correct layout.
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Hi Bergarth,
Can you please post photo of your XO, and schematic showing values? Also, try bypassing the XO and drive the RS100-8 direct drive - no filter of any kind.
Thanks,
X
Can you please post photo of your XO, and schematic showing values? Also, try bypassing the XO and drive the RS100-8 direct drive - no filter of any kind.
Thanks,
X
Suicufnoc,
Thanks for sharing your setup. Although you deviate from the design a lot, using a full range over a wide range of circa 400Hz to 4kHz gives nice benefits.
What are your crossover frequencies and slopes?
Thanks for sharing your setup. Although you deviate from the design a lot, using a full range over a wide range of circa 400Hz to 4kHz gives nice benefits.
What are your crossover frequencies and slopes?
A bit more work done on my 'compact' versions. ...work on the baffles. 18mm BB ply that a kindly neighbour cut to size as I lack decent tools for straight edges. And so spent a good few hours myself routing the holes, rebates and driver breathing chamfer on the back side....although the 225 looked like it would have been ok so I just made a small chamfer thru 360deg.
First proper baffle I have made and boy isn't it time consuming! Learnt a lot though and the cheap Chinese circle jig worked a treat.
I got one of the rebates for a 225 the tiniest amount under size and so the driver is a little push fit. It makes you realise once you have the main hole cut out that there isn't much you can do about that afterwards so it did make me think!
Just deciding on how to mount the baffle. Was going to use rubber well nuts but I didn't leave myself enough of the old baffle left and I don't really want to add any more wood back in there as it will swallow volume . So I may just end up with some beefy screws along with my rubber sealing strip. Once I have drilled the mounting holes I shall round over the corners
And the wife seems to think they look OK too!
First proper baffle I have made and boy isn't it time consuming! Learnt a lot though and the cheap Chinese circle jig worked a treat.
I got one of the rebates for a 225 the tiniest amount under size and so the driver is a little push fit. It makes you realise once you have the main hole cut out that there isn't much you can do about that afterwards so it did make me think!
Just deciding on how to mount the baffle. Was going to use rubber well nuts but I didn't leave myself enough of the old baffle left and I don't really want to add any more wood back in there as it will swallow volume . So I may just end up with some beefy screws along with my rubber sealing strip. Once I have drilled the mounting holes I shall round over the corners
And the wife seems to think they look OK too!
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Jimk04,
That’s very nice work! Indeed, baffles properly made are a PITA if you are not a seasoned woodworker. That’s why I ask a cabinet maker to do all of mine. I have tried before and it’s an amazing amount of time. Sort of like making a chassis for an amp.
That’s very nice work! Indeed, baffles properly made are a PITA if you are not a seasoned woodworker. That’s why I ask a cabinet maker to do all of mine. I have tried before and it’s an amazing amount of time. Sort of like making a chassis for an amp.