From post 1, the dimensions were stated as:
So with 1in thick XPS that would make the baffle 10in wide, not 12in. But I don’t think that’s going to change the XO too much.
The cabinet dimensions I used, to my dismay, were from your post #798. I'm not sure why I picked these specs, since there were other more obvious opportunities like post #1.
Sorry about that - error on my part. The cabinet is about 10in wide x 13.5in deep x 18.5in tall. This is my Baltic birch ply 3/4in thick.
Hi again,
Sorry to disturb again. Whats the special purpose for dagger? any sonic benefits? Can we make the sealed chamber a square one for the full range?
Regards,
Sadik
Sorry to disturb again. Whats the special purpose for dagger? any sonic benefits? Can we make the sealed chamber a square one for the full range?
Regards,
Sadik
I'm kind of kicking myself but also trying to turn it to my advantage. A bit. I doubt anyone else will have this shape for an XRK FAST-variant, so there's that exclusivity factor.
Will post pics when done. I've been wondering at the apparent lack of other folks posting their creations. Yes, I've seen a few in this thread but mostly they deviate considerably in box shape, bass tuning, and even driver selection. Must be the DIY mentality and a use-what-you-got resourcefulness?
Will post pics when done. I've been wondering at the apparent lack of other folks posting their creations. Yes, I've seen a few in this thread but mostly they deviate considerably in box shape, bass tuning, and even driver selection. Must be the DIY mentality and a use-what-you-got resourcefulness?
how about bringing in the spiral loop as in nautaloss speaker for the full range?
i am sure, it will have to be a pretty small loop length. maybe 12"?
i am sure, it will have to be a pretty small loop length. maybe 12"?
Hey Byrtt,
I used that trick on my OB with the big TB 8".
The effect of turning on and off the Linear to Max is not subtle!
Without it, there is instruments separation, but the image is a bit blurry.
Turning it on places everything at their place, razor sharp. Also, centered voice was a bit wide spread across the centre, but with the Max on, it is really narrow, pin-point like, right smack in the centre.
Thing is, the latency is horrendous, so it's only valuable for 2 channel listening. If I bring in the HT setup, or even just add the sub, it is way off sync.
Cool thing though.
Thanks for the tip!
You could put a Nautaloss inside but I find Dagger works fine and is more compact. But maybe leave it outside and add woofer below. Sort of how I used to do the full range driver blind comparison threads.
Thanks the feedback on filter perceval, admit a latency buffer will exist into Max mode its just myself is nut about get better sound and so cost of that little latency is alright for my system, if you down the road subjective look into it again then suggest try run only one mono speaker (could be L/R feeded) and if that scanario also show improment then for mono speaker dial it into best in room sensed natural power response curve and check it from different locations that it stays mostly the same, now turn on stereo and that should really rock then. I could be wrong in that mono suggestion but discovered myself too often dial in some settings that subjective feels stand out for the good and then after a while find out its was a overreaction, where that simpler mono speaker and less variables for ears location relative to a stereo triangle and reflections improve on precision to judge where we really are, for a mono speaker even at close range and on/off axis there is still clues for how is its natural resolution/3D/rhythm of harmonis lineup.
Think in a logic world if a small system latency is okay missing room HF power response amplitude because of beaming should be boosted with amplitude only linear phase boost because material is mastered in a smooth minimum phase enviroment, and knowing a minimum phase amplitude boost will change original timing as is case for some drivers build in amplitude rising response, then scanario to get back original timing is smooth out that build in minimum phase rising response using minimum phase EQ and now lift HF area with linear phase EQ until room power response sounds natural and stay away from being 100% on axis.
Think in a logic world if a small system latency is okay missing room HF power response amplitude because of beaming should be boosted with amplitude only linear phase boost because material is mastered in a smooth minimum phase enviroment, and knowing a minimum phase amplitude boost will change original timing as is case for some drivers build in amplitude rising response, then scanario to get back original timing is smooth out that build in minimum phase rising response using minimum phase EQ and now lift HF area with linear phase EQ until room power response sounds natural and stay away from being 100% on axis.
what is the damping/stuffing required for the box?
as far as dagger is concerned i plan to stuff some polyfill and that should be enough i guess.
for woofer, no idea what cabinet treatment is needed
as far as dagger is concerned i plan to stuff some polyfill and that should be enough i guess.
for woofer, no idea what cabinet treatment is needed
Dagger is polyfill or fiberglass as you suggest. Stuff it denser at the vertex and slowly tease it out loose and fluffy towards driver end and leave about 1in space without stuffing. Line the internal walls of the Dagger from the driver end for about 2in with 1/4in felt or melamine foam cleaning pads cut to about 10mm thick. This really helps prevent any back reflections on the driver and gives it a clean sound rivaling an open baffle.
For the larger main box, line at least 3 of the inside walls with egg crate acoustic foam pads, then add fiberglass or polyfill into the nooks and crannies around the Dagger, and in the main volume. I did not weigh it - but a good amount not too dense.
Optionally, line the outside of the Dagger with Noico mass loaded butyl rubber car door panel sound absorber. Also optionally line the inside of the main cabinet with Noico underneath the eggcrate foam. All of these little details will reduce the resonances and vibrations to really clean up the distortion from mechanical vibrations.
Don’t forget to put a round over in the baffle cutouts to allow the drivers to breathe.
For the larger main box, line at least 3 of the inside walls with egg crate acoustic foam pads, then add fiberglass or polyfill into the nooks and crannies around the Dagger, and in the main volume. I did not weigh it - but a good amount not too dense.
Optionally, line the outside of the Dagger with Noico mass loaded butyl rubber car door panel sound absorber. Also optionally line the inside of the main cabinet with Noico underneath the eggcrate foam. All of these little details will reduce the resonances and vibrations to really clean up the distortion from mechanical vibrations.
Don’t forget to put a round over in the baffle cutouts to allow the drivers to breathe.
Wow! Clarity of an OB without the OB drawbacks. Plus the time alignment. This project has a lot going for it. I'll bet it sounds great. I am especially keen to see how CGodecke's build materializes with the cheaper TC9.
I like hot glue for foam. Quick and easy.
Hot melt glue for foam and Noico is self stick. You need to give it a good pressure rub with a blunt tool like a spoon or a roller.
It can sound very good with a TC9. There is a slight difference in subjective sound signature between paper vs fiberglass. Some people prefer paper. TG9FD 8ohm sounds almost like a 10F for 1/5th the price.
It can sound very good with a TC9. There is a slight difference in subjective sound signature between paper vs fiberglass. Some people prefer paper. TG9FD 8ohm sounds almost like a 10F for 1/5th the price.
That can work, I would add a thick disc of 1/2in felt at the flat end or use melamine reticulated foam cleaner pads. Ideally it should come to a point but this can work. Don't forget to line the first 2-3in of the mouth with felt or foam. Making a 3 or 5 sided Dagger out of whatever material is also very easy and gives the best result as it avoids the round resonance mode of the cylinder.
Speaking of melamine pads, I have loads of that stuff but it doesn't appear to have any more absorbing properties than any other sponge. Do I need some special kind of melamine?
It’s better than regular (grey) open cell polyurethane foam. Same as BASF Basotect sound abatement foam. Very fine porous reticulated structure. This fine tortuous path is what provides gaseous flow damping.
https://youtu.be/0tyABDoIexI
https://youtu.be/0tyABDoIexI
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