In my vast experience, everything you made yourself is better than anything else ever. Been there, done that. They never gave me any t-shirt though.
You will learn if you create something, you want others to acknowledge your skills. It seldom or ever happens. Some of us (Hugh) needs to market his stuff.
I would like to do that too, but my tastes must be so different from others, that I would never succeed unless I have marketing done professionally and pay for it. That I don't want to, life has al;ready gone by and there is no point starting all over.
Hugh, mate, good luck with your new creation, I trust it would be successful as always. I wonder if people realize what it cost and the effort involved to make your hobby commercially viable. It is not a once-off Sunday excursion to the fleamarket, it becomes a business, forecasting, expediting, stock, building, shipping, costing, book-keeping, advertising, marketing, tools and equipment and the list is long.
I understand Hugh, you need to do some reconnoitering. before attacking and competing with your new weapon and need some honest friends to help along the way.
You will learn if you create something, you want others to acknowledge your skills. It seldom or ever happens. Some of us (Hugh) needs to market his stuff.
I would like to do that too, but my tastes must be so different from others, that I would never succeed unless I have marketing done professionally and pay for it. That I don't want to, life has al;ready gone by and there is no point starting all over.
Hugh, mate, good luck with your new creation, I trust it would be successful as always. I wonder if people realize what it cost and the effort involved to make your hobby commercially viable. It is not a once-off Sunday excursion to the fleamarket, it becomes a business, forecasting, expediting, stock, building, shipping, costing, book-keeping, advertising, marketing, tools and equipment and the list is long.
I understand Hugh, you need to do some reconnoitering. before attacking and competing with your new weapon and need some honest friends to help along the way.
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Another thing I want to add here is that electronics are cheap and you can make the best amplifier in the world, it is possible. BUT mechanics are such as heat sinks, transformers and the like is expensive and darn-right difficult to manufacture like these wonder boxes on the market. Unless you have the tools and skill set to design and successfully produce a wonderful aesthetically pleasing box that competes with the likes of high-end. Forget it you will not succeed. Customers will not even compare your stuff with anything out there because it does not look like it is worth anything. If you want a tool made for your own extrusion you are looking at mega bucks. You can water jet cut stuff, but you will stand in line with other one-offs.
I will offer a neat solution I use and it works beautifully and would compete with a Mackintosh face plate any day, it is both cheap and easy.
Draw your face plate up with your PCB program, use fonts and insert logos and pictures where you desire, then have only a single side negative photo plot done (cheap).
On the back side of the photo plot you can add colorful tape strips (blue, red, white green) over the identifications and lettering that you want highlighted in the color you chose for that indicator. (You can leave blanks squares if you want fit meters or bar-graphs.
Place the photo plot sandwiched between two pieces of frosted glass cut to size and use it as your professionally designed face plate. When the internal light (in your amp box) comes on, it will illuminate your text and logo through an absolutely black face plate and there you are, a wonderfully professional looking face plate. I cannot comment on the box here you have to get what is available to you.
I will offer a neat solution I use and it works beautifully and would compete with a Mackintosh face plate any day, it is both cheap and easy.
Draw your face plate up with your PCB program, use fonts and insert logos and pictures where you desire, then have only a single side negative photo plot done (cheap).
On the back side of the photo plot you can add colorful tape strips (blue, red, white green) over the identifications and lettering that you want highlighted in the color you chose for that indicator. (You can leave blanks squares if you want fit meters or bar-graphs.
Place the photo plot sandwiched between two pieces of frosted glass cut to size and use it as your professionally designed face plate. When the internal light (in your amp box) comes on, it will illuminate your text and logo through an absolutely black face plate and there you are, a wonderfully professional looking face plate. I cannot comment on the box here you have to get what is available to you.
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Neat stuff Nico,
Would you have a pic of of a face plate you have used to show what it can look like?
Would you have a pic of of a face plate you have used to show what it can look like?
Kokanee, this was decades ago. I will look if I still have such a thing on an old PC. You can imagine this easilky, just look at a photo negative, everything is reversed, light is black, black is transparent.
Nope, nothing. The reason I say have a PCB negative made is for the "absolute black" light does not shine through it, it will only pass through the transparent parts. You cannot print it on a laser printer, the black is not black enough.
@andyr
Dear Andy,
I would be honored if you would build yourself a Beelzebabe and report on your sonic impressions between these two class A representatives, AN39 & BB, but unfortunately the twin sibling pair is not designed for Z_nom=4Ohms.
regards,
HBt.
Dear Andy,
I would be honored if you would build yourself a Beelzebabe and report on your sonic impressions between these two class A representatives, AN39 & BB, but unfortunately the twin sibling pair is not designed for Z_nom=4Ohms.
regards,
HBt.
Sorry, HBt - not interested as:
1. My self-designed & build spkrs are 4 ohms ... so I need a 4 ohm-capable amp, and
2. I'm very happy with my AN4Rs, plus
3. as I need to build two stereo amps (for my 2-way active spkrs) ... a lot of money is involved in any build. 🙁
I understand that very well Andy - there's no need for it, a comparison just for the sake of comparison is pure luxury and possibly also expensive.
I'll put my money on "adason" as soon as Ed finds the time and desire to compare.
Australia is very far away from Germany, I suspect that no one in my area has yet realized an original AN39 - oh, a festival would be nice and a good place for a cultivated exchange.
I hope you continue to enjoy Hugh's great project.
All the best,
HBt.
I'll put my money on "adason" as soon as Ed finds the time and desire to compare.
Australia is very far away from Germany, I suspect that no one in my area has yet realized an original AN39 - oh, a festival would be nice and a good place for a cultivated exchange.
I hope you continue to enjoy Hugh's great project.
All the best,
HBt.
I won't be implementing an AN39 myself, even if I like Hugh's circuit idea - the amplifiers are slowly piling up in my home. Perhaps there will be a chance, friendly comparison of the two different interpretations?
Good luck with your house sale.
HBt.
Good luck with your house sale.
HBt.
I don't think that Hugh ever strives for any kind of "house sound" when he designs something new, it is in fact new since he tries to improve his product each time he puts his hand to it. Just the fact that he asks friends to review his products before putting it to market is enlightening. Hugh is not the person who is addicted to praise, but to enter the market with increasing enhancements both in sound and quality.
Hi, I am making the final adjustments to the AN 20w//8ohms. For testing used a pair of loose Vifa speakers that I already had. Interestingly the sensitivity and minimum impedance, are very similar to the values of the mid and treble part that will finally feed the amp. As a pair I use the Yarra/Hakuin preamplifier.
Because the sound volume was already very high in the first steps of the attenuator, I had to play with the feedback shunt resistor value R124 leaving fixed R126 of 22k.
I ended up with a R124 value of 10k (820ohms original value). If I am not mistaken this gives a gain of 10dB (27 dB original value).
My doubt is if lowering so much the gain of this amplifier, can produce some electrical or sound profile change. It is the only way I have to tame the attenuator in its first steps.
Regards
Thanks to @Nikos for giving a set of boards I finished my AN39 amp and it’s playing music. I wanted to build a 4 ohm version of this amp to power my PAP clone speakers. Heat sinks are 350/150/55mm so they are hot to touch but with Midwest cold winters it’s a good room heater. Initial impressions is it’s good amount of power and a very tight base, dynamic soundstage. I can now even listen with less than 10% of volume on my HPA preamp compared to my other amps.
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Please don't use twisted wires for fet connection.
Otherwise very good job!
Otherwise very good job!
Can you explain why you think this?
I thought it was good practice to braid/twist every set of wires - whether:
* AC wires into and out of the power transformer
* DC wires from PS to amp PCB
* and wires to the off-board jfets?
Do you want source or drain pulse modulate the gate pulse😱
Or maybe you want to change the capacitances of the fet?😭
I don't think so 😉
But this is me of course.
Or maybe you want to change the capacitances of the fet?😭
I don't think so 😉
But this is me of course.
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Well done!!!
Very nice and wood warm DIY box !!.
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For me its pain in my as.......
but i will do it... sorter cables....less capacitance etc...
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Aah, Hugh (@AKSA ) I notice you 'liked' thimios's post.
So does that mean the above comment is "fair dinkum"?
(In which case ... I will unbraid my wires! 🙂 )
