If you don't mind the "two clicks" to have it fully on... and if you're doing a true "dual mono" build with two power transformers (one for each channel) - just wire it as intended.
I'd ask an expert, but as an alternative, you could wire both transformers to 1-AC (or 2-AC) and they'd switch on together at either the first or second click. I'd be willing to try that for something for me personally, but I'm careful to dispense any advice as an admitted novice that's known to get lots of things terribly wrong.
I'd ask an expert, but as an alternative, you could wire both transformers to 1-AC (or 2-AC) and they'd switch on together at either the first or second click. I'd be willing to try that for something for me personally, but I'm careful to dispense any advice as an admitted novice that's known to get lots of things terribly wrong.
Thanks for the quick reply. The two clicks don’t bother me. I’m just confused by the AC-1, AC-2 and AC In soldering points.
When in doubt - beep it out, but from what I gather from the website... AC-in would be for your AC mains in. If you're unsure - we'll cover it in depth.
AC-1 and AC-2 are the switched "outputs" - switch position 1 (Full CCW) is "off". One click CW connects AC-in to AC-1. Switch position 2 (one more click CW) would connect AC-in to both AC-1 and AC-2.
Beep that out with your DMM to be sure.
With that said... unless you're in love with that particular switch, a simple toggle switch may be a better alternative. Not discouraging you from using it at all, but just be sure that it's set up the way we're thinking. I can't see the traces.
Thanks so much. I’ll cobble together some visuals with connection points to share/validate before go live.
What @ItsAllInMyHead said—IEC line and neutral into the middle vertical pads labeled "AC IN" (IEC ground to chassis), then the primaries of your transformers into "AC-1" and "AC-2" depending on what you want on first. This switch is really designed for tube amp applications where you want to apply power to a tube rectified PSU (AC-1) and then apply power with the next click to the tube preamp (AC-2). The theory being that hitting the whole shebang with the juice in one power flip-on somehow over time degrades the tubes in the amp section.... You see this commonly in guitar amps where there is a "standby" switch that toggles the full B+ to the preamp(s). There is at least one authority in this realm that says this 2 stage power application is not needed at all (related to tube amps), and can address the details and science to qualify it—I have done it both ways in my guitar amps.
I have used the Glassware (mostly, if not all, tube related items and projects) AC switch you have in my Aikido preamp (also a Glassware/Broskie design), which is all tubes (I set up a red LED for first click—wait a few seconds, power tubes start to glow—and then a green LED for second click full power—pretty cool actually—and it's a great sounding amp).
IMO, and I wouldn't dream of telling anyone anything about their projects, but a single power switch for Iron Pre is perfectly okay, dare I say normal—and the AC switch in question could be used down the road if you want to build a tube amp (and don't want to do the homework to satisfy yourself that every vintage Fender amp with a standby switch is just a waste of parts—of course I'm only referring to the switch itself).
I have used the Glassware (mostly, if not all, tube related items and projects) AC switch you have in my Aikido preamp (also a Glassware/Broskie design), which is all tubes (I set up a red LED for first click—wait a few seconds, power tubes start to glow—and then a green LED for second click full power—pretty cool actually—and it's a great sounding amp).
IMO, and I wouldn't dream of telling anyone anything about their projects, but a single power switch for Iron Pre is perfectly okay, dare I say normal—and the AC switch in question could be used down the road if you want to build a tube amp (and don't want to do the homework to satisfy yourself that every vintage Fender amp with a standby switch is just a waste of parts—of course I'm only referring to the switch itself).
Last edited:
Sounds like I have a project for this winter inbound... 😀
Due to major error in construction, entire quantity of Iron Pre (batch 3, superdoopersmdfancyshmanzy) is recalled to OPLDF
All already paid customers will be reimbursed pronto, new quantity of kits available in Summer 2026
All already paid customers will be reimbursed pronto, new quantity of kits available in Summer 2026
No no no, this can't be true. My Iron Pre SE SMD plays flawless music 🎶 I will say glorious music. Please say it ain't so...
I'm having flashbacks of the movie "Who Killed the Electric Car?".
ZM can not possibly use all 200 qty Iron Pre Super Mega Deluxe...can he?
This must all be part of a careful and meticulous marketing campaign.
I'm having flashbacks of the movie "Who Killed the Electric Car?".
ZM can not possibly use all 200 qty Iron Pre Super Mega Deluxe...can he?
This must all be part of a careful and meticulous marketing campaign.
Last edited:
I planned on replying sooner, but I had an unexpected e-bike accident that took me out of commission....I digress.
Assuming I wanted to lean into the nuances of using this switch instead of buying a single power switch, would the wiring look something like the two images below?
Second image skips AC-1 and powers on both with final click of the wheel.
Assuming I wanted to lean into the nuances of using this switch instead of buying a single power switch, would the wiring look something like the two images below?
Second image skips AC-1 and powers on both with final click of the wheel.
Attachments
I wish we had 200. The quantities are far more limited.
Again... I wish we were that clever. It's still not easy to get some specific parts in quantity without longer waits than we'd all like. I know you're pulling our collective legs, but I mainly wanted to clear that up for anyone that may be reading along.
Then... we have the inevitable technical wiggles and niggles to work through to help make sure everyone that wants one from this run has as fair a chance to get one as is practical. The good news is... that hopefully... the next run won't take eons to get back.
For full and complete transparency... those that used the store's "Notify me when back in stock" feature are (hopefully) going to get a notice at some as yet to be determined time on some as yet to be determined date notifying them in advance when the kits will be available to purchase in store. That will allow them to schedule accordingly. The rest of the world will just know when they know.
That e-mail list has been locked, so there's no need to rush over and hit the button now hoping to get ahead of the rest of the pack.
It's no secret that I think it's a pretty awesome pre-amp. I hope more and more people get to enjoy one.
I haven't beeped it out... and you haven't shared how it all beeped out... but #1 scares me.
#2 looks fine to send mains to both transformers when the switch is most likely fully CW.
Edited to add - I hope you're OK from the e-bike accident.
Thanks to you and ZM, there's going to be a lot of very happy Greedy Boyz. We all appreciate the hard work, time, and effort you put in so we can enjoy the music.
much appreciated. tis but a scratch.
The DMM was a great idea, as the beeps confirmed how it works. surprisingly, full CCW is all on and full CW is all off. I tried flipping the switch around on the pcb, but the result was the same. I'm just going to wire both to AC-2.
Thanks again!
The DMM was a great idea, as the beeps confirmed how it works. surprisingly, full CCW is all on and full CW is all off. I tried flipping the switch around on the pcb, but the result was the same. I'm just going to wire both to AC-2.
Thanks again!
Wut. That’s a bummer for someone who’s been lurking here for months but unaware that a “notify me” option was even available on the store page. 🙃
Such is life. I guess there’s not a lot of options when talking about these kinds of scenarios. Hopefully we’re not talking about kits being sold out in a matter of hours?! 😅