Let's start with the speakers:
Please clarify, Pedroga, do you physically own any or all of those three drivers yet?
Thanx Pedroga but that is the information needed to build the box.
To design the crossover we need much more.
We need a graph of the drivers frequency response along with the matching graph of the drivers impedance.
Now first off those details tells me this isn't a woofer at all but a professional midrange and at a guess quite like the Eminence Alpha. The drivers Fs is far too high for a woofer
Now first off those details tells me this isn't a woofer at all but a professional midrange
The JBL 10PX is described as a "professional woofer" here: https://azelectronics.ca/products/jbl-selenium-10px-10-professional-woofer-125watts-rms
I own them all, the woofers I already had before.Please clarify, Pedroga, do you physically own any or all of those three drivers yet?
but I can replace them
This is exactly what caught my attentionThe JBL 10PX is described as a "professional woofer" here: https://azelectronics.ca/products/jbl-selenium-10px-10-professional-woofer-125watts-rms
Maybe if crossing to a compression driver at around 1500 but mating with an 18" subwoofer much better at 120
It's not what a beginner should pick for a first 3-Way
It's not what a beginner should pick for a first 3-Way
Electrolytics then? This is at the top of my optionsPedroga, you are over thinking things. Use all electrolytics for this project and don’t worry about anything greater than 50v and 10% tolerance. There are more of them in speakers around the world than all others combined by a massive margin. The drivers you have are fine, so are electrolytic for this system. You have a first order xo of the most basic design. As mentioned, you will notice a great deal of difference in getting the values correct more than you ever will in what type of cap or coil you use. You have no resistors nor shunting happening so you are at the very beginning of your journey. I hope it goes well. Your ears will tell you the truth. That’s the point at which this crew will be able to help with things like notches, zobels, L-pads, BSC, etc.
Don't be afraid!I'm afraid of using electrolytics in the midranger and distorting my sound
Start with an electrolytic. You may change it (and the whole crossover circuit) eventually, once you know more about crossovers and speaker tuning.
But I think now would be a good time to start a slightly more advanced discussion.
How's your patience rating? 😉
I have a separate box with a 12 inch pioneer subwooferMaybe if crossing to a compression driver at around 1500 but mating with an 18" subwoofer much better at 120
It's not what a beginner should pick for a first 3-Way
Forget the midranger and make a big 2-Way.
Add a Zobel on the 10" use a second order and cross it to your chosen tweeter at around 2000/2500 and see what you think about how is sounds
Add a Zobel on the 10" use a second order and cross it to your chosen tweeter at around 2000/2500 and see what you think about how is sounds
I'm teaching a 12YO to cook like a professionalHow's your patience rating? 😉
If y
Then start with a pair of small 2-Way using the mid and tweeters you have. Much easier as a learning process
High level inputs and outputs to use with satellite speakers?I have a separate box with a 12 inch pioneer subwoofer
Then start with a pair of small 2-Way using the mid and tweeters you have. Much easier as a learning process
Here's the raw supplied FR for the woofer,made using fptrace, with the 1.6mH inductor added: there's a nasty peak between 2 and 3,000 Hz which needs to be dealt with as it will likely interfere with the sound from the mid. Impedance (ZMA) graph is not available.
I should have added to my post on the tweeter FR that I had the 12 microfarad cap added.
I can't find a FR graph for the mid.
Geoff
I should have added to my post on the tweeter FR that I had the 12 microfarad cap added.
I can't find a FR graph for the mid.
Geoff
Attachments
It's a good option too.If y
High level inputs and outputs to use with satellite speakers?
Then start with a pair of small 2-Way using the mid and tweeters you have. Much easier as a learning process
I usually think about this a lot.
I had already seen this peak in some simulators on my computer, it is quite unpleasant, but every woofer that I get here in my country and put in the simulator always has a peak, at least all the ones with cloth edges, those with rubber edges generally they are very flatHere's the raw supplied FR for the woofer,made using fptrace, with the 1.6mH inductor added: there's a nasty peak between 2 and 3,000 Hz which needs to be dealt with as it will likely interfere with the sound from the mid. Impedance (ZMA) graph is not available.
I should have added to my post on the tweeter FR that I had the 12 microfarad cap added.
I can't find a FR graph for the mid.
Geoff
I even thought about JBL's MG-600 10-inch woofer, but that peak persists
I would like to hear what you have to say and take notes😉👍I'm teaching a 12YO to cook like a professional
And that's exactly why crossover calculators don't and can't work and why a crossover should be custom designed for your drivers and cabinet.I had already seen this peak in some simulators on my computer, it is quite unpleasant, but every woofer that I get here in my country and put in the simulator always has a peak, at least all the ones with cloth edges, those with rubber edges generally they are very flat
I even thought about JBL's MG-600 10-inch woofer, but that peak persists
Geoff
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Crossover: The infamous CAPACITORS