But even if I build everything beforehand (box, etc.) I don't have the equipment like a microphone to measure. It would be an even bigger problem
That's why so many people suggest building an existing project where someone else has done the hard work. No-one will look down their nose at you for doing that, in fact they will probably tell you what a great job you've done.
You could take Moondog's suggestion in post #75 to make a small 2 way from your tweeters and mids. Do you have the FR and impedance graphs for the mid - if so, we could probably come up with a sim which could get you started on something which you could then tweak.
You might also perhaps consider an existing design which uses your Vifa, it's an excellent, high quality tweeter. I've seen it used with the Peerless 830657; the Dayton RS180P and R180 and in 2 and 3 way designs and there are many more out there.
Geoff
You could take Moondog's suggestion in post #75 to make a small 2 way from your tweeters and mids. Do you have the FR and impedance graphs for the mid - if so, we could probably come up with a sim which could get you started on something which you could then tweak.
You might also perhaps consider an existing design which uses your Vifa, it's an excellent, high quality tweeter. I've seen it used with the Peerless 830657; the Dayton RS180P and R180 and in 2 and 3 way designs and there are many more out there.
Geoff
I basically agree with all above > except, unless used in series, I NEVER buy 50V bipolars anymore - I buy 100V.
Using small value PolyCaps as a bypass can save money & work, especially for tweeters.
PS.
I don't see how the efficiency of the early mentioned 4 inch mid can match the output of the Pioneer 'woofer'.
Reducing output level of tweeters is easy, but reducing the output of woofers is just not a practical thing to do passively.
But then again, you can use a woofer's inductor that has high DCR. ( and expect heat )
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Get a cheap electret capsule. It will be sufficiently precise at the frequencies where your crossover points are likely to be. While far from perfect, it will be magnitudes better than poking around in the dark.
Just as an example: aliexpress.com/item/1005004281678104.html
Good luck!
I have the graphs of all the speakers.
Why shouldn't we trust sellers' information when cutting frequencies?
This was an error that I only saw recently.
I noticed their low sensitivity but when I connected it to my amplifier I found their volume to be quite high and the quality, to be honest, of all the Brazilian speakers I had the opportunity to see, they beat them in terms of quality and performance.
I've always had terrible luck with originally Brazilian speakers, from muddy sound to poorly sized boxes described in the speaker's own manual.
And for the volume of sound it gave, I wouldn't mind attenuating the woofer even though it's a huge waste of energy.
I'm going to take a look at this microphone.
The ones I have available at home are all condenser microphones for voice recordings.
Suppose I have the microphone.
Would I already have to have capacitors and assemble the box and then measure and see new capacitors to adjust them?
Would I already have to have capacitors and assemble the box and then measure and see new capacitors to adjust them?
You build the box, according to sensible principles: midrange close to tweeter, placement of both simulated beforehand with some software (e.g. Vituixcad has a module for that) for smoothest results. If possible give the box a generous roundover.
Then you measure the drivers individually, in the box, on- and off-axis. You feed those results into a simulator - again, e.g. Vituixcad, but there are several around, many shareware.
Then you virtually cable it together to simulate crossover variants. No need to buy any components until you settle on a design that makes you happy. That's one great advantage of using computer tools - another is better loudspeakers!
There is a learning curve, but it's sure worth it.
Then you measure the drivers individually, in the box, on- and off-axis. You feed those results into a simulator - again, e.g. Vituixcad, but there are several around, many shareware.
Then you virtually cable it together to simulate crossover variants. No need to buy any components until you settle on a design that makes you happy. That's one great advantage of using computer tools - another is better loudspeakers!
There is a learning curve, but it's sure worth it.
You need to measure the drivers in the box you build for them, because the variations in response of different box geometries are not subtle. You need to incorporate that result into the crossover - that's why everyone here is so insistent that super-low part count is unlikely to work well.
That cheap mic is just an example, but usually electrets are pretty linear between 200-6000 Hz, which is all you need to get you into the ballpark. There are quite a few super-affordable options on Ali. The bass you will need to calculate via T/S parameters anyway. Did I mention a learning curve? 😉
if not obvious for beginner, sound reacts with physical objects reflecting, diffracting and transmitting. A driver attached to different objects would make the response differ some. Although the driver itself emits sound like it does, the immediate surroundigns, the physical structure the driver is attached to, reflects, diffracts and transmits sound, so affects the response! A driver datasheet measurement is usually taken in a standard IEC measurement baffle, but you are building something else, like bookshelf speaker so the measurement would look different.
I think that before the box I should choose a woofer that doesn't have peaks... Or use the JBL 10px anyway
Be decisive.
Right or wrong, make a decision.
The road of life is paved with flat squirrels who couldn't make a decision.
There will be an end but I hope that this end will have a good result and when it is finished I will post it on the forum thanking everyone
Now to my love that only grows so there is no end
Now to my love that only grows so there is no end
A love that has grown into eighteen threads.
I can't wait for thread number nineteen! 😀
If there's a DC bias of a few volts, I'll use electrolytic, if not, or a small value, I'll use a film; often a motor run. For a power supply, I'll try to use LOTS of electrolytics in parallel.
But that's just me.
But that's just me.