We’ve probably all had bad experiences with capacitor bypassing, but paralleling similar types and values to make up a value, on a device like a speaker which doesn’t really respond at radio frequencies there’s not too much to go wrong.
I guess you are (very?) young and as such you are, let's say, "radical" by nature and therefore aspire to perfection.
I guess.
Striving for perfection is even fine, but what you need to realize is that you have to accept the inadequacy of the human mind with respect to "everything" there is to know.
And so you have to accept that your project is not perfect.
But you have to start doing it, as it is: imperfect!
Then, over time, you will perfect it.
It is the history of the mankind that in this case it is in your still unaware hands.
I wish you all the best. 👍
Yes, you won’t reach it first time around.. No matter who you are. So perfectionism doesn’t make sense, even if you choose to move towards it in the longer term. Another benefit of that is you get to learn what matters each time you build a new speaker and can see what was worth it and what wasn’t.
Again, I believe it’s too soon.
If the OP is serious, then getting a taste for construction, soldering, and then acoustic measuring will each be deciding factors in how far he wants to take it.
Should the OP choose to build the recommended design, he will not need to quantify T&S or impedance. The speaker design work is optimized and complete. He will only need the USB microphone to correlate sound projection with on-screen visuals. It will be a learning tool.
Sweeps can be sent from the computer’s headphone jack to a receiver or audio amplifier, preferably with input level adjustments. When the time arrives to add a woofer, measure impedance and quantify T&S parameters for simulations, at that time ARTA’s resistor jig will fulfill the task with a variety of audio interfaces. The DATS 3 would also be a recommended ready-to-run alternative.
For the bass section I used WIMA MKS4 250V (can be 100V or 150V) and added some 10uF WIMA FKP10 250V in parallel. For midrange I used Mundorf Mcap EVO Oil and WIMA FKP and for tweeter Jantzen Silver Z, considering that the higher the frequencies, the better quality capacitor should be used. I don't use bipolar electrolytics, and just for rehearsals I used motor run capacitors in the bass section and WIMA MKS4 + PHILLIPS MKC for the rest.
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High voltage polypropylene, and suitable for PA. They are quite cheap, but they are not for tweeters, they muffle the sound a bit. They can go for tube amplifiers, as the first capacitor behind the rectifier tube. It usually has to be of smaller capacity and withstand high ripple current, which these withstand without problems.