Give @Pedroga a bit of tolerance > He IS on a learning curve after all.
The interesting thing about his posts is that some show quite reasonable understanding, where others seem to be quite confused 😕
Re. capacitors >
Many years ago I had quite a large collection of Japanese 1, 4, and 12uF 200V 'oil caps'.
They were large size, and I figured that I would never use them > and you can guess what I did 🙁
Yes, I threw them away - WOOPS
Many years ago I had quite a large collection of Japanese 1, 4, and 12uF 200V 'oil caps'.
They were large size, and I figured that I would never use them > and you can guess what I did 🙁
Yes, I threw them away - WOOPS
I read somewhere that there was a smaller size & voltage range that didn't stand the test of time.
But the large size/high voltage type are renowned for lifespan and excellent Q.
But the large size/high voltage type are renowned for lifespan and excellent Q.
I read somewhere that adding a copper sleeve around an electrolytic capacitor reduces the ESR, is that BS ?
I suspect you haven't read all his threads or you would be aware of how very tolerant I have been and how much I've tried to contribute to Pedroga's understanding. He has thanked me for my efforts. I think we now know each other well enough to share a little joke or two!
I don't know if we are talking about the same capacitors,
But when I built my bass when I went to do the electrical part I used Russian oil capacitors, noticeable differences = 0.
The audible difference from this was minimal, the same with ceramic capacitors, in my opinion the best capacitor for musical instruments is the one that delivers what it says without many variations.
I don't know if it's like that in the hifi world
I need to find a microphone to measure the speaker parameters and then do the crossover.
What was recommended to me as an example was this: https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005004281678104.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2bra
More recommendations?
@geotone
What was recommended to me as an example was this: https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005004281678104.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2bra
More recommendations?
@geotone
Open another thread ;-)
Seriously, stop overthinking. You need to start somewhere, get any of the cheap Chinese things - it'll get you in the ballpark. Unlike Galu's flat squirrels that couldn't make up their mind.
Or get several and compare to find out which one gives you plausible results. On or two dB here or there don't matter all that much. Again: stop overthinking, start building, start measuring.
Seriously, stop overthinking. You need to start somewhere, get any of the cheap Chinese things - it'll get you in the ballpark. Unlike Galu's flat squirrels that couldn't make up their mind.
Or get several and compare to find out which one gives you plausible results. On or two dB here or there don't matter all that much. Again: stop overthinking, start building, start measuring.
Pedroga's got 18 threads open already, each related in one aspect or another to his 3-way speaker project.
So far, there's not one on microphones!
I shall hop aboard and enjoy the ride!
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I've given all the help I can.
I need help with some of my own stuff now 🙂
I need help with some of my own stuff now 🙂
Some people do not want any help, even if help is given.
Umik-1, affordable for most budgets and connects to a computer. Comes with a calibration file. Use this microphone with ARTA or REW free software.
Then build the Mechano23 bookshelf speaker. At that point you will have a very decent music maker and can measure to your heart’s content to learn about radiation patterns, frequency response and phase.
When you have become comfortable, design and build a big woofer enclosure to pair with it, turning it into a 3-way. For the design stage, use Nichicon DB or GB electrolytic crossover capacitors. They can be paralleled of course to reduce the ESR.
In this case, you can wrap em all up with a band of copper. That has to be referred to ground, somehow. Some use polarized crossover with batteries so a clever way to do it is to mantain one plate of the capacitor at 0V, so that's where the copper goes.
The OP does not need confusion.
The DB and GB are relatively affordable non-polaralzed electrolytics designed for loudspeakers. The have high ripple current handling and low ESR compared to many polarized types, making them application appropriate.
It’s easier to buy a handful of a a few values and parallel them to achieve the desired target response, and, slope Q-factor if it’s 2nd order or higher.
Ah ah ah
I can't imagine how I can get speaker parameters with a microphone...I read that you need some putty and an amplifier connected to an audio card running on a PC.
What about paralleled caps? Dunno, I don't like paralleled caps
I can't imagine how I can get speaker parameters with a microphone...I read that you need some putty and an amplifier connected to an audio card running on a PC.
What about paralleled caps? Dunno, I don't like paralleled caps