I took the first image as an example... I'm sorryThe first one would be hopeless for audio, but it's 120 microfarads: where would you use that anyway? I think it's for a flourescent tube fitting.
Please post the component values and schematic, then we can try to help you.
The Dayton would be fine for most purposes; note that Dayton has two types "DMPC" (basic) and "PMPC" (a bit better, for about 20% more money)
Geoff
I use heaps of large value capacitors, in the high pass on woofers and large midrange drivers. One of my subs has a 1750uF cap bundle in it
No audible difference between 120uF and 112uF and if that motor start capacitor is Bipolar and affordable use it
Yes. I have used motor capacitors like you show and I have used electrolytic capacitors and many other types. They all do the same job. You are worrying too much.I'm using simulators and I know the value of the capacitor I need lol, the problem is finding the ideal capacitor,
In time, you will probably try many component values so you will need several of them, and you can find out for yourself.
I stand (or sit) corrected!I use heaps of large value capacitors, in the high pass on woofers and large midrange drivers. One of my subs has a 1750uF cap bundle in it
The highest value I've seen in a published design was about 60; you learn something from this Forum every day.
Geoff
???
What doesn't work well?
Everything is a compromise and you learn to either bundle caps to get the calculated value or use the closest standard value.
112 + 10% is 123 which is acceptable.
What doesn't work well?
Everything is a compromise and you learn to either bundle caps to get the calculated value or use the closest standard value.
112 + 10% is 123 which is acceptable.
Capacitors like these are typically only available from stores dedicated to selling speaker parts.
12uF:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-12-12uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-430
100uF: (take your pick of expensive or cheap)
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...0V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-447?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/100uF-100V-Non-Polarized-Capacitor-027-360?quantity=1
12uF:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-12-12uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-430
100uF: (take your pick of expensive or cheap)
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...0V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-447?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/100uF-100V-Non-Polarized-Capacitor-027-360?quantity=1
I read that electrolytic capacitors can color the sound or give unwanted distortions.???
What doesn't work well?
Everything is a compromise and you learn to either bundle caps to get the calculated value or use the closest standard value.
112 + 10% is 123 which is acceptable.
All capacitors have their own imperfections. Just start with the cheapest ones such as in post #28,
and if the result is ok, stop there. You can always substitute more expensive parts later on.
I think you will find that the design of the crossover is a much bigger factor than the capacitor quality
that is used to realize it. A "perfect" part cannot fix theoretically bad performance. You would be shocked
at how badly many expensive commercial speaker systems measure (and sound).
and if the result is ok, stop there. You can always substitute more expensive parts later on.
I think you will find that the design of the crossover is a much bigger factor than the capacitor quality
that is used to realize it. A "perfect" part cannot fix theoretically bad performance. You would be shocked
at how badly many expensive commercial speaker systems measure (and sound).
Yes by people who want you to buy more expensive ones. At such large values very few people can afford PP or better and to be honest with myself I really cannot tell the difference and neither can my wife who had golden ears exception being in tweeter circuits. Also if it can't be measured it doesn't exist. High power through early 35V caps maybe / perhaps but modern electrolytics are rated for quite high voltages and any rating over 100V should be/ will be more than good enough.
Save the expensive caps for the tweeters circuit where they may make a difference or may not
Are you using drivers that cost a thousand dollars each? or a hundred or only $20- I'd not use a hundred dollar capacitor on a driver that cost a hundred dollars [ and I have those in my stash] and certainly not on a driver that cost $20-
Save the expensive caps for the tweeters circuit where they may make a difference or may not
Are you using drivers that cost a thousand dollars each? or a hundred or only $20- I'd not use a hundred dollar capacitor on a driver that cost a hundred dollars [ and I have those in my stash] and certainly not on a driver that cost $20-
Reading what you said and in some research I did, I'm considering using Polypropylene (PP) capacitors in the tweeters as it is the driver that will give details and polish the sound and use the electrolytics even in the midranger or, I don't know, at most a capacitor. Polyester (Mylar, MKT)
Imagine building up to 112uF using these.
https://speakerbug.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83&product_id=938
https://speakerbug.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_83&product_id=938
MY GOD, I imagined that the quality of the capacitors was a factor in good sound, but I have no idea whether such expensive capacitors exist or the reason for this is the audio quality or am I going crazy?
Some people like the idea of having such parts in their speakers, and can afford it.
It's like anything else, prices can vary all over. Some cars have sold for over $100,000,000.
It's like anything else, prices can vary all over. Some cars have sold for over $100,000,000.
It's called 'marketing': is a Rolls Royce ten times better than a Camry? No, but people still want to buy them.
Apologies, I was talking rubbish about cap values in my earlier post I checked and two of my projects have 100 microfarads in the woofer shunt! I was thinking too much about tweeter circuits...
NB Speakerbug carry parts in all price ranges, and Nigel is great to deal with - I get almost all of my XO parts from him.
Geoff
Apologies, I was talking rubbish about cap values in my earlier post I checked and two of my projects have 100 microfarads in the woofer shunt! I was thinking too much about tweeter circuits...
NB Speakerbug carry parts in all price ranges, and Nigel is great to deal with - I get almost all of my XO parts from him.
Geoff
It does not matter how good your capacitor is, if the speakers you select are inferior or wrong crossover values are selected.
Crossover values should be selected on actual frequency response of each driver. In many cases first order is not adequate and steeper slopes are required to deal with breakups. In some cases even notch filters are used.
Brand, type and price of the capacitor you select should be the last thing, speaker design first. Generic textbook crossover? Not likely.
For a first speaker project its advised to build already verified project.
Crossover values should be selected on actual frequency response of each driver. In many cases first order is not adequate and steeper slopes are required to deal with breakups. In some cases even notch filters are used.
Brand, type and price of the capacitor you select should be the last thing, speaker design first. Generic textbook crossover? Not likely.
For a first speaker project its advised to build already verified project.
I've already done my speaker project, I already have the speakers, I just need the crossover, I think.
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