Also can't say that these SLS drivers fit nicely in a certain size cabinet (or smaller).
There are more variables than just only freq resp and distortion.
Also nothing wrong with choice in aesthetics.
According to measurements of Hobby Hifi a RS does better anyway.
Does it matter?
Maybe, maybe not, but why spending money the same amount of money on something that doesn't do better?
Makes me sleep better at night, lol 😀 😀
Btw, we don't know for sure yet, but it really looks like Tymphany is starting to move those SLS drivers on the obsolete list.
I personally don't want to invest in a speaker that can't be replaced within 5 years.
(unless it's a vintage project or so)
There are more variables than just only freq resp and distortion.
Also nothing wrong with choice in aesthetics.
According to measurements of Hobby Hifi a RS does better anyway.
Does it matter?
Maybe, maybe not, but why spending money the same amount of money on something that doesn't do better?
Makes me sleep better at night, lol 😀 😀
Btw, we don't know for sure yet, but it really looks like Tymphany is starting to move those SLS drivers on the obsolete list.
I personally don't want to invest in a speaker that can't be replaced within 5 years.
(unless it's a vintage project or so)
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Maybe, maybe not, but why spending money the same amount of money on something that doesn't do better?
this is my point exactly. What’s the market differentiation to the RS?
Or is it half a dozen of one, 6 of another.
I really would like to see why these are better/worse than RS125/150/180/225/270? By their impedance curve, probably not better. But Are they easier to crossover? yes; probably, because their cones dip instead of peak in the higher frequencies. Yes I see value in that.
maybe the RS series prices are in the move again. The RS225 used to cost a quarter of a Scan-Speak…
It seems someone had revived this production line have not seen or heard of them for a long time , sorry!
To feed the discussion further - it may well be that an inverted (metal) dome is much more immune to internal reflections transmitting to the outer space hitting the ear or microphone . A paper cone should sound more coloured in this regard , for quasi-nearfield listening a fact to consider!?
We should ask Brandon/augerpro , he is the lab master of all cab & sound-through-cone research 🙂
In one of his videos he's howling like a wolf to mimic the sound , no joke!
That's true speaker building , never gonna give up 🙂
To feed the discussion further - it may well be that an inverted (metal) dome is much more immune to internal reflections transmitting to the outer space hitting the ear or microphone . A paper cone should sound more coloured in this regard , for quasi-nearfield listening a fact to consider!?
We should ask Brandon/augerpro , he is the lab master of all cab & sound-through-cone research 🙂
In one of his videos he's howling like a wolf to mimic the sound , no joke!
That's true speaker building , never gonna give up 🙂
Well this is what got me excited about the SIG series.I really would like to see why these are better/worse than RS125/120/150/180/225/270?
maybe the RS series prices are in the move again.
Over the years, the prices for the RS series just went up crazy.
On such a way that other alternatives actually aren't that much more expensive, but perform just way better.
Or for us here in Europe, alternatives that are much easier/cheaper to get.
For some reason many Dayton speakers are about 15-20% more expensive here.
Looking at the parts Express page and spec sheet for the 10", I didn't notice any verbage about shorting ring or copper cap. Inductance rise looks pretty severe. The earlier, smaller drivers mentioned having shorting rings, but their inductance also looked suspiciously high to have any. Was that a mistake in the smaller spec sheets?
I have a slightly off topic question about the 830668. I'm kind of dumb and I need a few really basic questions answered, namely "Are three things going to be a problem if I actually build this?" This is everyone's fault here for reminding me it exists. I built a bass box in VCAD. Their new tools are awesome. Kimmo just needs to figure out how to integrate all of them at once so I don't have to keep flipping windows and importing data.
I was doing the usual paint-by-numbers sealed enclosure with EQ. I run into an excursion problem, and my first thought is "Can't I get a lot more power handling by throwing a port in there tuned to driver Fs?" Surely the displacement should be massive and solve the excursion problem! So I kept going with this monstrosity that may never fit together, EQ'ing the smallish box flat to 30hz. Then I thought I could do better if I ignore the power handling aspect. So here's the three problems with three dumb questions:
1: Can I ignore power handling requirements if the port is moving the air, not the driver? Similarly, does the driver still use the power even though it doesn't move? I imagine it does.
2: Is the impedance an issue outside of amplifier selection? It hits 3ohm across most of the sub-bass spectrum.
3: Will everything explode in this configuration?
In very stupid terms, I have colored the driver into the lines. The dark blue fits into that light blue shape at 200W, the excursion is just barely passing xmax, and the vent velocity is manageable if I ignore that we only live in three dimensions. The following represents worst case.
The original sealed box was limited to 95dB SPL. Boosting, cutting, and preamping until the response was flat with EQ. Hence the hair-brained idea. The light blue vs dark blue lines highlighting my completely unfounded theory on porting.
Here's the sealed configuration:
I was doing the usual paint-by-numbers sealed enclosure with EQ. I run into an excursion problem, and my first thought is "Can't I get a lot more power handling by throwing a port in there tuned to driver Fs?" Surely the displacement should be massive and solve the excursion problem! So I kept going with this monstrosity that may never fit together, EQ'ing the smallish box flat to 30hz. Then I thought I could do better if I ignore the power handling aspect. So here's the three problems with three dumb questions:
1: Can I ignore power handling requirements if the port is moving the air, not the driver? Similarly, does the driver still use the power even though it doesn't move? I imagine it does.
2: Is the impedance an issue outside of amplifier selection? It hits 3ohm across most of the sub-bass spectrum.
3: Will everything explode in this configuration?
In very stupid terms, I have colored the driver into the lines. The dark blue fits into that light blue shape at 200W, the excursion is just barely passing xmax, and the vent velocity is manageable if I ignore that we only live in three dimensions. The following represents worst case.
The original sealed box was limited to 95dB SPL. Boosting, cutting, and preamping until the response was flat with EQ. Hence the hair-brained idea. The light blue vs dark blue lines highlighting my completely unfounded theory on porting.
Here's the sealed configuration:
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I like that Dayton is creating new lines of drivers. This new line adds to our options.
I have rarely been able to look through an on-line catalog and find a driver that exactly meets every need. I usually have to compromise on the sensitivity, Qts, the Fs, the impedance curve, or some aspect of the frequency response. So the more options out there, the better.
Scanspeak often makes several versions of the same woofer but with variations in Fs and Qts, and this is very helpful. I have often wished that SB and Wavecor would do the same thing. This new signature line from dayton is not quite the same idea, but nonetheless it does add to our catalog of usable drivers.
I have rarely been able to look through an on-line catalog and find a driver that exactly meets every need. I usually have to compromise on the sensitivity, Qts, the Fs, the impedance curve, or some aspect of the frequency response. So the more options out there, the better.
Scanspeak often makes several versions of the same woofer but with variations in Fs and Qts, and this is very helpful. I have often wished that SB and Wavecor would do the same thing. This new signature line from dayton is not quite the same idea, but nonetheless it does add to our catalog of usable drivers.
I have a slightly off topic question about the 830668. I'm kind of dumb and I need a few really basic questions answered...
200W of continuous power input to 2 of these in parallel is ok for a certain period of time, yet how long exactly will they last before breaking down depends. Drivers fail mechanically by hitting the back plate and/or by being overheated. For casual listening in a home environment not having any intention of damaging your hearing, this is all a non-issue.
An experiment would be much more worth, yet you may have to sacrifice a unit or two to get really well informed.
My advice is, need extreme power for any reason, think conservatively and increase the number of units to share the load.
Voice coil heating also increases the dcr value leading to bass precision/performance decrease.
A gentleman at the Parts Express forum explained why the video above was contrived… As to the sound of ribbons I have a Raal 20XR, a Fountek Pro5 and NeoCD 3.0. The Raal is the smooth sorta like a more transparent planar IMO. The Founteks seem a little more shimmery on the top end than the Raal. The GRS seem to be Fountek with a thicker(more robust?) ribbon and I haven’t heard them. I have heard the Raven R.2 and it was excellent and similar tone wise to the Founteks.
The SIG180 was recently tested here, unfortunately you need a membership to see the results (I don't have one)
https://hifi-selbstbau.de/index.php/hsb-datenblaetter/tief-mittelt/dayton-sig180-4
https://hifi-selbstbau.de/index.php/hsb-datenblaetter/tief-mittelt/dayton-sig180-4
I have seen the reliable measurements by HSB of this driver ... there is nothing to complain about regarding the Sig180 ... more measurements/other drivers of the Signature Line will follow soon! (no precise time line)
bye
bye
I got word that the Signature 225 has an aluminium sleeve:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...nature-Series-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-656?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...nature-Series-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-656?quantity=1
I got word that the Signature 225 has an aluminium sleeve:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...nature-Series-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-656?quantity=1
Is it just me, or is that more expensive than the RS-225?
I WANT AN INVERTED ALUMINIUM DOME TWEETER BY DAYTON AUDIO
But no foam surround please!
We have no time to loose so please quick quick quick 🙂
regards - wishful thinking
ps ..
more stuff ..
But no foam surround please!
We have no time to loose so please quick quick quick 🙂
regards - wishful thinking
ps ..
more stuff ..
See old Focal T120K tweeter , second smaller picture :
https://old--fidelity--forum-de.tra..._sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp
https://old--fidelity--forum-de.tra..._sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp
One has a better motor. The other has a better cone.Is it just me, or is that more expensive than the RS-225?
Ya picks ya poison…
Is there really anybuddy out there thinking the old dusty RS225 can compete tech-wise or soundwise with the glorious Sig225 beauty?
If you can choose between a hot girl and a dull one - which one would you take with you on vacation?
Easy decision , right 🙂
https://www.audiophonics.fr/img/cms...18173/18173-dayton-audio-sig225-4-inpage3.jpg
If you can choose between a hot girl and a dull one - which one would you take with you on vacation?
Easy decision , right 🙂
https://www.audiophonics.fr/img/cms...18173/18173-dayton-audio-sig225-4-inpage3.jpg
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