Hi Guys,
I have just uploaded the latest build guide to the 1st post of this thread and your Dropbox folder.
This update covers the new VBE multiplier and temperature compensation updates.
The current version is now #34. Revision are noted at the end of the file.
Once again a big thank you goes out to @fireanimal , @jjs & @danieljw for there support, testing and simulation during this important update.
I have just uploaded the latest build guide to the 1st post of this thread and your Dropbox folder.
This update covers the new VBE multiplier and temperature compensation updates.
The current version is now #34. Revision are noted at the end of the file.
Once again a big thank you goes out to @fireanimal , @jjs & @danieljw for there support, testing and simulation during this important update.
Hi Jon,
Just be careful your so called ground lug could just be a connection to safety ground.
My bet is you only have a 0 to +30v supply which is insufficient as you need a minimum of -30 0v +30v
The best thing to do in these situations is to measure you bench supply with a dmm to determine what voltage you have, is it floating, is it a dual rail supply etc...
Posting an image or model number would certainly help
Good luck.
Hi Dan and Stuart!
Thanks for posting the photo, Dan. This will help a lot.
I splurged and ordered a Siglent dual channel PSU for the occasion - each channel can provide 30V. There is a setting where it will internally place the two channels in series for 60V.
Jon
Thanks for posting the photo, Dan. This will help a lot.
I splurged and ordered a Siglent dual channel PSU for the occasion - each channel can provide 30V. There is a setting where it will internally place the two channels in series for 60V.
Jon
@lotharx
Let me know if I am wrong, but I believe that unit can do +/- 32V max simultaneously (using the green tab in the middle as well). However, if you wanted only an individual polarity, then in series mode it can do 64V. But I don't think I've seen it do +/- 64V.
For that I think you would need two of the above machines.
Best,
Anand.
Let me know if I am wrong, but I believe that unit can do +/- 32V max simultaneously (using the green tab in the middle as well). However, if you wanted only an individual polarity, then in series mode it can do 64V. But I don't think I've seen it do +/- 64V.
For that I think you would need two of the above machines.
Best,
Anand.
Sweet, you'll enjoy having that on your bench, not only for the wolverine but many other projects to come. 👌👍
@lotharx
You can check this with a multimeter. Set it to series output mode. Set CH1/CH2 to an arbitrary low voltage, let’s say 5.00V.
Take the black lead of your DMM and connect it to the green screw terminal, and leave it connected there, you may need a wire attached to make it easy.
Take the red lead of your DMM and connect it to the black screw terminal of output 1. You should read a negative voltage. Then take the red lead of your DMM and connect it to the red screw terminal of output 2. You should read a positive voltage.
If you did it right, you should be able to get +/- 5V. If you did then you know that the center green terminal connects to G and the other two terminals mentioned above are your + and -.
When you first get this bench meter, you’ll need to play with it a bit, before connecting it to a circuit you are testing. A DMM is a good way to do this since it is floating (as it is battery operated) with no real reference to ground.
Best,
Anand.
You can check this with a multimeter. Set it to series output mode. Set CH1/CH2 to an arbitrary low voltage, let’s say 5.00V.
Take the black lead of your DMM and connect it to the green screw terminal, and leave it connected there, you may need a wire attached to make it easy.
Take the red lead of your DMM and connect it to the black screw terminal of output 1. You should read a negative voltage. Then take the red lead of your DMM and connect it to the red screw terminal of output 2. You should read a positive voltage.
If you did it right, you should be able to get +/- 5V. If you did then you know that the center green terminal connects to G and the other two terminals mentioned above are your + and -.
When you first get this bench meter, you’ll need to play with it a bit, before connecting it to a circuit you are testing. A DMM is a good way to do this since it is floating (as it is battery operated) with no real reference to ground.
Best,
Anand.
Thank you so much Anand! I will do this tomorrow. The plan is to test one IPS board at a time. If the PS behaves as you described, then +32V goes to V+ on the board, -32V goes to V- and the green PS lug connects to G1 or G2 on the board. Does this sound right??
Check it like stated above. I have a Rigol bench supply and have to connect a red and a black from each channel to get a floating ground. My green lug connects to earth ground.
That sounds right. Remember there is a knob on this bench supply. If you turn it clockwise, while the bench is in series mode both CH1 and CH2 will simultaneously go up in voltage. So start at 0V and turn the dial up and see what your DMM is showing. This will be the best test, before connecting it to the IPS board. Don’t want to fry anything of course.
If you have any other cheaper or expendible circuits to try, that would be well advised before checking your precious IPS boards!
And for what it’s worth, I never apply the full +/- 32V at the first try. I start low, at just a few volts, and turn the dial clockwise, while watching the circuit like a hawk. If anything is smoking, or I smell something, there is an immediate “ALL ON/OFF” button on this bench supply that you can press to quickly set the voltage down to 0 volts. But if everything checks out, then I rotate the dial clockwise all the way up to the requisite voltage the circuit requires. This is a method I always use on every virgin circuit, because even the most seasoned solder slingers make mistakes.
Best,
Anand.
If you have any other cheaper or expendible circuits to try, that would be well advised before checking your precious IPS boards!
And for what it’s worth, I never apply the full +/- 32V at the first try. I start low, at just a few volts, and turn the dial clockwise, while watching the circuit like a hawk. If anything is smoking, or I smell something, there is an immediate “ALL ON/OFF” button on this bench supply that you can press to quickly set the voltage down to 0 volts. But if everything checks out, then I rotate the dial clockwise all the way up to the requisite voltage the circuit requires. This is a method I always use on every virgin circuit, because even the most seasoned solder slingers make mistakes.
Best,
Anand.
I'm late to this party, but this calculator is eye-opening. Holy crap. It explains (I think) why more sensitive speakers sound so much more dynamic and have more "jump" factor.
I also like to know how much the circuit is expected to pull in amps and set the current limiters on each channel to just over that.
I listen to it at low volume for two reasons, my daughter is studying history, she is an archeologist at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, and secondly above the amplifier, I also have 2.5 amp fuses, I hope for a better video in the future hahahah. What made an impression is the high quality of sound at very low volumes and the more three-dimensional color it has if I could say so. With more capacitors COG/630V instead mica .
https://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-FG26C0G2J471JNT0
https://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/810-FG26C0G2J471JNT0
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Good work!
Something is absent,where is the speaker protection?😈
Something is absent,where is the speaker protection?😈
Hi Guys,
I have just uploaded the latest build guide to the 1st post of this thread and your Dropbox folder.
The current version is now #35. Revision are noted at the end of the file.
Happy Building
I have just uploaded the latest build guide to the 1st post of this thread and your Dropbox folder.
The current version is now #35. Revision are noted at the end of the file.
Happy Building