I have not ordered transformers yet and Antek shows "Out of Stock" on the AS-0518. Can someone recommend an alternative? I checked into some REALLY nice Toriody Audio Supreme 30VA transformers, but by the time they're shipped to me they're about $100 each(I need 2)...somebody better stop me before I order these.
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Use a pair of these Anteks for Bal Iron Pre:
https://www.antekinc.com/an-0218-25va-18v-transformer/
If you to go all out, order one custom Toroidy Supreme 60VA with 4 x 18V secondaries 🤩.
Just check if the Supreme trafo height will fit in the custom Modushop chassis.
https://www.antekinc.com/an-0218-25va-18v-transformer/
If you to go all out, order one custom Toroidy Supreme 60VA with 4 x 18V secondaries 🤩.
Just check if the Supreme trafo height will fit in the custom Modushop chassis.
The AN-0218 may be a good option. The shield is dependent on your mains power. I'm not a person that says that they're a must have vs. a nice to have, but others may chime in with more knowledge.
They even make nice little 'cans for them' CA-002.
Edited to add - Vunce beat me to it. 🙂
They even make nice little 'cans for them' CA-002.
Edited to add - Vunce beat me to it. 🙂
Just for reference, Here’s a photo of the new cans that antek sells: (an-0218 shown too)
Progress, hopefully I will have time to test it this weekend, sans case of course.
Finished the power supply last night then scrubbed the board before applying power. Hope to get the transformers set up later to test voltages and then finish the build.
One feedback element for builders is to be diligent with the heat and allow time for the solder to flow. I typically solder with a hot iron (450degC) and the traces on this board are heavy, taking much more to let the solder flow than I typically am used to. If you are not careful, you will end up with poor contact or cold joints. (except most of you are pros and this is me preaching to the choir)
One feedback element for builders is to be diligent with the heat and allow time for the solder to flow. I typically solder with a hot iron (450degC) and the traces on this board are heavy, taking much more to let the solder flow than I typically am used to. If you are not careful, you will end up with poor contact or cold joints. (except most of you are pros and this is me preaching to the choir)
for regular through hole stuff ......... 385-ish C, proper old lead solder and, say, 2mm chisel iron tip
proper sized tip is of equal or even greater importance than temperature - think thermal inertia - tiny tip is having none
anecdote - Big Man's soldering iron (at Sea Ranch) - tip of size that you almost use it to solder rain gutter, and temp is also adequate
no wonder he's refusing to deal with smd - that means he need to grab other soldering station from shelf.....
yeah, when having solder pad in middle of wide trace, without thermals (ZM is not using thermals, that's for Sissies), feel free to crank it to 480C - fast and furious is better than slow and meek
proper sized tip is of equal or even greater importance than temperature - think thermal inertia - tiny tip is having none
anecdote - Big Man's soldering iron (at Sea Ranch) - tip of size that you almost use it to solder rain gutter, and temp is also adequate
no wonder he's refusing to deal with smd - that means he need to grab other soldering station from shelf.....
yeah, when having solder pad in middle of wide trace, without thermals (ZM is not using thermals, that's for Sissies), feel free to crank it to 480C - fast and furious is better than slow and meek
Great method of work advice ZM. Love the sea ranch reference! so cool. I love my chisel tip. And always thought quick was good. Was there ever a published solder temp/duration for old stock toshiba jfets? I was never able to find one in spec sheets, but always used < 400 for as short as possible. PS for me Mk no clean flux in syringe helps flow as does solder on tip before heating component and trace. Peace
If you have a hot air station, preheat the pcb a bit. Combined with all the previous advice and the solder smoothly flowwwws 
Just completed the board. Tested the power supply and set the voltage to +/- 15v. Will complete the testing over the weekend and report. Some pictures...
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Lovely! Great to see the leads of the '10mm' caps for C5 and C6 could be manipulated a bit w/o harm. Sorry again for that goof.
🙂
Okay, now I'm a little perplexed and confused.
Given the AN 0218 (which I have) and the Balanced Pre, per the schematic:
Am I to wire secondary set A to AC1 (blue) and CT (purple), and secondary set B to CT (blue) and AC2 (purple) with each secondary basically driving half the power supply's rectification?
The secondaries wires are usually blue and green.
Either way, see the diagram in the spec sheet you attached and the yellow sticker on the side. Usually the blue wires are shown with the phase dots.
Secondary 1 Blue - AC1 | Secondary 1 Green CT | Secondary 2 Blue CT | Secondary 2 Green - AC2
Either way, see the diagram in the spec sheet you attached and the yellow sticker on the side. Usually the blue wires are shown with the phase dots.
Secondary 1 Blue - AC1 | Secondary 1 Green CT | Secondary 2 Blue CT | Secondary 2 Green - AC2
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Got it. Glad I bought two 0218s.
Seeing as I looked at blue and green and wrote blue and purple and I'm NOT color blind, I'm going to shut off the soldering iron for the evening.
Zen,
Is this a typo?