Zen, I am yet to adjust the DC offset. Got the remaining parts today. Will spend time tomorrow to complete the build and report.
Guess I was lucky 🙂. The leads were just long enough to solder on the PCB.
When I saw the BOM in post n. 321 I thought the kit would be available soon and I started to get the components....so now I'm eagerly awaiting the availability of the kit.😊
fortunately 😃 in the meantime I'm busy building a pearl 2 and I'm in the process of ordering the case for it.
I'd like to use the same case for the Pearl 2 that was planned for the Iron pre.
@ItsAllInMyHead.... Is it possible to know which case was chosen for the IP and its dimensions?
Michele
fortunately 😃 in the meantime I'm busy building a pearl 2 and I'm in the process of ordering the case for it.
I'd like to use the same case for the Pearl 2 that was planned for the Iron pre.
@ItsAllInMyHead.... Is it possible to know which case was chosen for the IP and its dimensions?
Michele
Fired up my SE Pre Iron today, no magic smoke so that was good. I barely had time to adjust the PSU to +-15V before the boss had me take her shopping. Hopefully I will get to work on it tomorrow.
Great call out. Did not notice that Giovanni listed the multiple depths available.
Both the balanced and SE prototype chassis are 280mm.
Made some progress
Rail voltages all good and easily adjustable. Offset easy to zero for both positive and negative signals. Only need to install the relays and a volume potentiometer - I have opted for 12V relays ( all that was in stock ) , the anode voltage is odd - negative 22V , Cathode is at negative 6V - the zener is 16V , so that gives them a 16V differential - I need to look at the schematic again as I suspect I should not be using the circuit ground as reference
anyway - all the part in the BOM make the circuit itself work as expected
..dB
Rail voltages all good and easily adjustable. Offset easy to zero for both positive and negative signals. Only need to install the relays and a volume potentiometer - I have opted for 12V relays ( all that was in stock ) , the anode voltage is odd - negative 22V , Cathode is at negative 6V - the zener is 16V , so that gives them a 16V differential - I need to look at the schematic again as I suspect I should not be using the circuit ground as reference
anyway - all the part in the BOM make the circuit itself work as expected
..dB
Final picture until it has been tested with Music
All mechanics and electrics check out . I was going to make my own cables but the ribbons are just so convenient - clever mr zen
Need to sort out how many SE vs Balanced inputs I need and get it rigged up to be able to be tested as a preamp
Overall a very cool project to assemble , I am curious how this holds up to my SRPP tubed pre
Thanks to all involved in getting us to this point , always humbled by the generosity of DIYA
..dB
All mechanics and electrics check out . I was going to make my own cables but the ribbons are just so convenient - clever mr zen
Need to sort out how many SE vs Balanced inputs I need and get it rigged up to be able to be tested as a preamp
Overall a very cool project to assemble , I am curious how this holds up to my SRPP tubed pre
Thanks to all involved in getting us to this point , always humbled by the generosity of DIYA
..dB
Looks great dB, nice work!
This process has been a very long one, you and the merry band of beta testers are the final hurdle for these IP projects getting released out into the Wild.
Bravo to All involved!!
This process has been a very long one, you and the merry band of beta testers are the final hurdle for these IP projects getting released out into the Wild.
Bravo to All involved!!
More progress today, I was able to adjust the DC offset to 0mV for both channels. Now I need to hook up an input and output to see if it will make music.
So, in the end I ordered the same set-up as you, 2 X AN-0218/CA-002 covers. It's ~$50 for the Anteks and over $200 to go with Toriody...I just can't see how spending the extra $150 would make an appreciable difference.
I used 10K, but it is not a critical value. Just something in the thousands and not too much higher than 20K
as Boyz are saying - not critical
ZM's Thumb of Rule - use 1K per each rail Volt
and you can even double it, LED will be visible
Well, I guess they're kinda critical to me...I'm sort of fussy about the brightness of my LEDs. Anyway, here's my solution:
There's a 22K installed...I can adjust value to my liking down the road.