DIY Class A/B Amp The "Wolverine" build thread

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fireanimal:
Can you show me your measuring device?
Is the measurement of the test oscillator available?
I use a the following;

Room EQ Wizard
Multitone Analyzer
Topping D10s
Linear Audio Autoranger
Cosmos Grade 0 ADC
Cosmos APU Notch
Distortion Magnifier
Viktor Precision 1kHz Oscillator
Viktor Precision 20kHz Oscillator

What kind of measurement are you looking for?
 
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Only have one with the APU

1 kHz with APU Notch dBr.png
 
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I feel somehow blessed listening to this peaceful coexistence of my new Wolverine prototype with my old (digitally modded) Doug Self preamp:
20230216_192556.jpg


But the Wolverine definitely deserves a nicer front panel. Any suggestions? How did you guys design your front panels?
Maybe I'll give my old analog level meters a chance - they remind me a little bit of the old Onkyos:
20230216_193900.jpg


Anyway: Thanks to the Wolverine team for this wonderful amp and the outstanding support. And thanks to LKA for his protection boards.
 
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Just to comment that these boards are among the best I ever saw and worked with. The design and layout are a thing of beauty. We can really see that countless hours were spent to reach such great design. The boards are top quality, and the building guide is well done and really helpfull. Great work. Can’t wait to test it and then hear it! Thanks for sharing your desing.
SB
 
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Also don’t know if it was mentioned on the design thread, but an overtemp protection will also be a good idea to add to the completed amp. I always have one, Normally Close thermostat switch in series with the AC voltage, after the fuse, same as Nelson do.

Saved one of my amps last Christmas when me wife put a blanket over my Pass Class-A amp, while listening to Diana Krall Christmas CD, to prevent dirt to enter the amp while making the tree ;)

The amp simply shut down, and the next day restart it, safe and sound. Without overtemp it would had been a disaster.

SB
 
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Hello I have a question about the power connection.
I have ordered a Cobra S-2 and the data sheet says that if an AC socket with EMI filter is used, at least one with 15A and also none from a Chinese manufacturer.
Unfortunately, I only read this after ordering from Aliexpress and took one with a 6A fuse. Should I order one without an EMI filter?
 
Since you already spent a lot of money on the Cobra s2 I would not cheap out on the power socket. (I would also not do this because of safety reasons)
I would rather go quality non filtered socket than cheap filtered.
Also the Cobra has active PFC. Because of this a EMI filter is not that important/necessary
 
Hello I have a question about the power connection.
I have ordered a Cobra S-2 and the data sheet says that if an AC socket with EMI filter is used, at least one with 15A and also none from a Chinese manufacturer.
Unfortunately, I only read this after ordering from Aliexpress and took one with a 6A fuse. Should I order one without an EMI filter?

There should be an onboard power line filter on the PSU PCB. Adding a second seems weird. They don't trust there own filter? Power line filters are not just designed to withstand some maximal current but also to preform best at some nominal current. It's not just the fuse that differs. German brand Schaffner is pretty open about there component selection, see page 2 of linked document for some examples.

https://www.schaffner.com/fileadmin/user_upload/pim/products/datasheets/FN9222E.pdf
 
Trying to assimilate. Am I correct in thinking a 1K transformer with 2 45 volt secondaries would give me 64 volt rails, and the NJW 0281/0302s would give me 200 watts into nominal 8 ohm speakers which dip to 4 ohms. And that the Diyaudio Store UMS heatsinks are already tapped for those?
Thanks,
Mark