Did a repair on my homebrewed guitar amp.
Dirty channel was being a bit intermittent; percussive maintenance would sort it for a few moments, but then it would cut out again.
Found that wiggling one of the preamp tubes would cause it. I found no bad / dry connections under the chassis, so I re-tensioned the socket (aka, bent the contacts in a bit!). Cleaned it with a bit of Caig Deoxit too, while I was in there. Worked perfectly afterwards, and at our last rehearsal, but I guess I should be repacing that tube socket sooner rather than later.....
Dirty channel was being a bit intermittent; percussive maintenance would sort it for a few moments, but then it would cut out again.
Found that wiggling one of the preamp tubes would cause it. I found no bad / dry connections under the chassis, so I re-tensioned the socket (aka, bent the contacts in a bit!). Cleaned it with a bit of Caig Deoxit too, while I was in there. Worked perfectly afterwards, and at our last rehearsal, but I guess I should be repacing that tube socket sooner rather than later.....
Well after effing around for almost an hour trying to figure out why I could hit my box by SSH on the LAN but not the WAN, I finally figured out that the Bell "Gigahub" modem has an SSH server running. I changed the port my server is running on and voilà! Working SSH and SFTP.
Hi
I started building some DIY kits discussed here after having to "retrofit" a kit originally made by my dad a few decades ago. I wanted to try tube amp for a while, building a kit, but i just had to refurbish his that was laying around in a cold attic.
It was a real DIY Cibot 2x10watts.
Pictures before/after available here http://idler-drive.com/index.php/fo...stauration-ampli-cibot-a-tube-stereo-2x10watt
In french but i would give explanations/details in english in case somebody is ever interested.
Paired it later with a set of DIY Full Range Foster speakers to accomodate the 8ohms output.
attached is a pdf of a modification to work in ultra linear mode (not done myself, but just to archive some infos)
Very nice endeavour which lead me to later build a Noir headphone amp and now a M2x!
I started building some DIY kits discussed here after having to "retrofit" a kit originally made by my dad a few decades ago. I wanted to try tube amp for a while, building a kit, but i just had to refurbish his that was laying around in a cold attic.
It was a real DIY Cibot 2x10watts.
Pictures before/after available here http://idler-drive.com/index.php/fo...stauration-ampli-cibot-a-tube-stereo-2x10watt
In french but i would give explanations/details in english in case somebody is ever interested.
Paired it later with a set of DIY Full Range Foster speakers to accomodate the 8ohms output.
attached is a pdf of a modification to work in ultra linear mode (not done myself, but just to archive some infos)
Very nice endeavour which lead me to later build a Noir headphone amp and now a M2x!
Attachments
Had a strange problem with a transistor curve tracer.
Sometimes it would put random data on the screen.
But most times it would work ok.
I couldnt get to the bottom of it.
Then it hit me. The curve tracer software is in two parts, a curve tracer with 5 inputs and a simple curve tracer for four different VCE voltages.
I noticed it sometimes went wrong when going from one piece of software to the other.
What was happening was both pieces of software were trying to talk to same USB address and sometimes they would clash.
So I now shut down one piece of software while running the other and vice versa.
Sometimes it would put random data on the screen.
But most times it would work ok.
I couldnt get to the bottom of it.
Then it hit me. The curve tracer software is in two parts, a curve tracer with 5 inputs and a simple curve tracer for four different VCE voltages.
I noticed it sometimes went wrong when going from one piece of software to the other.
What was happening was both pieces of software were trying to talk to same USB address and sometimes they would clash.
So I now shut down one piece of software while running the other and vice versa.
I design, build and sell model railway DCC controllers.
The price of one motor driver was getting expensive so I found one for about 1/4 of the price.
Got a pcb made and tested it. Very similar to a previous working design except for motor driver.
I was forever getting over current detects from a simple transistor current detect circuit.
I popped it on the scope and noise was getting back into power rail despite having 100uf on it.
It was high frequency spikes from the motor.
A 100nf across the 100uf seemed to help a lot.
It still reset occasionally.
I had a look at transistor current detect and added a 1nf across its output and that seems to have fixed it.
The price of one motor driver was getting expensive so I found one for about 1/4 of the price.
Got a pcb made and tested it. Very similar to a previous working design except for motor driver.
I was forever getting over current detects from a simple transistor current detect circuit.
I popped it on the scope and noise was getting back into power rail despite having 100uf on it.
It was high frequency spikes from the motor.
A 100nf across the 100uf seemed to help a lot.
It still reset occasionally.
I had a look at transistor current detect and added a 1nf across its output and that seems to have fixed it.
Repaired a modular amp.
A 6P36S decided it wanted to arc.
After 3 seconds of lightening, the fuse blew.
Different tube, new fuse, and it's working again. I love auto grid bias!
A 6P36S decided it wanted to arc.
After 3 seconds of lightening, the fuse blew.
Different tube, new fuse, and it's working again. I love auto grid bias!
Fixing up some stuff for a friend.
First was a Sony CDP-CX400 CD changer from 2001 - this thing holds 400 CDs. I don't even own half that many. Just needed new belts and a little cleaning.
Next was an Onkyo TX-26 receiver from 1985. Right channel was dead which was just a speaker fuse. Noticed the right channel was weaker than the left and somtimes garbled.
Chased it down to the speaker protection relay, which I removed and was able to gave a good contact cleaning since it had a removeable cover. Back in business and sounds amazingly good considering it's age.
First was a Sony CDP-CX400 CD changer from 2001 - this thing holds 400 CDs. I don't even own half that many. Just needed new belts and a little cleaning.
Next was an Onkyo TX-26 receiver from 1985. Right channel was dead which was just a speaker fuse. Noticed the right channel was weaker than the left and somtimes garbled.
Chased it down to the speaker protection relay, which I removed and was able to gave a good contact cleaning since it had a removeable cover. Back in business and sounds amazingly good considering it's age.
Made in Italy late sixties, the pot was crapped out feet missing, bent bottom plate, and a cap lead plus some dodgy wires broken. I rebuilt a Schaller wah years ago, that had the same aroma when opened. That filmy layer of beer, smoke etc..from many gigs in a club back in the day. Rubbing alcohol and contact cleaner in large amounts ! It's all back together, and hope it goes another 40 years..
I've always wondered why guitar pedals evolved with the output jacks on the left, and the inputs on the right? Seems counter to the normal right-to-left signal flow we're used to seeing in schematics, block diagrams, even normal printed text (in the Western world at least). Come to think, Marshall guitar amps are arranged the same way if I remember correctly, at least where the input jacks on the front panel are concerned. Maybe that's where it started?
I understand your point. On the other hand the guitar cable normally goes right away from the (right hand) player making input from the right side more convenient imho.
You have guitar on your neck and left (fretboard) hand, so the cord and plug is in your right hand. How you gonna plug to a left-side jack?
I have an H-K AVR 520 surround receiver from a few years earlier. I'm using it down at my shop now but it was the heart of my home A/V setup for many years. Still works great, except for the terrible remote, which I finally supplemented with a generic learning type just a couple of weeks ago.
Ya know.... the remote for my HK DVD is also terrible.
It's got illuminated buttons, but the grey background with tiny dark grey text is impossible to read unless the room is sun-lit bright.
Why even bother lighting the buttons?
Who in hell designed that thing?
Here is a remote from the DVD 31, identical to my DVD 22 remote.
See the issue?
A few years ago, I decided DVD was out, and Blu-Ray and 4K Blu-Ray was in. Never going back to that. We gave away our old Blu-Ray player to a friend who was still on DVD when we got our 4K Blu-Ray player. There are still a few DVDs here for musical performances.
I have a bizarre malfunction on the Samsung 4K Blu-Ray player that I attempted to repair unsuccessfully: The Eject soft button doesn't seem to register further down the player. The LED flashes so there does seem to be signalling at this stage, but the eject command never reaches the 4K Blu-Ray drive itself.
Work-around: manual eject using a small round tube. The eject slot being inside and on the right side of the drive, the player itself stays open and the drive unscrewed from the base to be able to reach that manual eject hole until I find a way to fix it.
I have a bizarre malfunction on the Samsung 4K Blu-Ray player that I attempted to repair unsuccessfully: The Eject soft button doesn't seem to register further down the player. The LED flashes so there does seem to be signalling at this stage, but the eject command never reaches the 4K Blu-Ray drive itself.
Work-around: manual eject using a small round tube. The eject slot being inside and on the right side of the drive, the player itself stays open and the drive unscrewed from the base to be able to reach that manual eject hole until I find a way to fix it.
Ugh!
More Samsung crap?
That company's products are junk, dangerous, and have class-action lawsuits by the dozens.
Lots of angry customers.
I wish that company would fold and go bankrupt.
More Samsung crap?
That company's products are junk, dangerous, and have class-action lawsuits by the dozens.
Lots of angry customers.
I wish that company would fold and go bankrupt.
Yesterday was a new battery for the SUV, didn't start yesterday morning. Date code on old unit was Jan 2016, Costco replacement Nov 2022.
Today was a new element for the smooth top stove, a big 12" 1900/3000W unit. Overpriced used replacement from eBay, but worth fixing, it came with the house but has convection.
Today was a new element for the smooth top stove, a big 12" 1900/3000W unit. Overpriced used replacement from eBay, but worth fixing, it came with the house but has convection.
@leadbelly
Ya got 7 years outa that battery?...... that's great!
Seems the usual is 4-5 years.
As for cooking.... give me a gas stove.
Ya got 7 years outa that battery?...... that's great!
Seems the usual is 4-5 years.
As for cooking.... give me a gas stove.