Hi. What's happening with ISP2 connector (protection), is there an optional protection PCB, or is it for futur development?
Thanks
SB
Thanks
SB
There is wide consensus on the undesirability of electrolytic capacitors in the signal path.
100% agree, I would spend the extra few dollars on the film cap, the film cap will last forever the electrolytic will not. I only added that as more of a fun comparison, and if someone was on a really tight budget it could be used for the short term.
How long does an electrolytic capacitor last? 20 .. 30 years? I don't care. I'm already dead and the device is thrown in the garbage. In addition, there are 50-100 electrolytic capacitors in your signal path until the music is in your ear.
C1 is the only cap in the signal path on the wolverine. It measured the same as the film cap so therefore it will sound the same, I measured to give builders options / lower price alternatives if on a budget. Personally Film is the only way to go in that position, but to each their own.
Hi W team, mirror image boards would be nice so you don't have to put other upside down when you want wires in same direction or is there something that prevent it?
Is 2W emitter resistors ok in every case on ef3-4 boards, I do have plenty of 2w panasonic erx 0.47 resistors.
Is 2W emitter resistors ok in every case on ef3-4 boards, I do have plenty of 2w panasonic erx 0.47 resistors.
I have quietly progressed with my build:
One mistake I made is the assumption ebay 60/40 solder will be any good. It gave me more trouble than I anticipated. I have almost completely soldered input boards using it- to realise I was making a mistake. Ordered proper quality 100% leaded solder- day and night difference!
I have ordered 2 fewer Schottky diodes- so had to look them up elsewhere. EBay seller (good reviews) had some reasonably priced. Not sure if diodes can be counterfeit/ fake or not.
Another thing/mistake- I ve got a coil of 19 gauge (1mm) , not 18 (1.2mm)- can I use it?
I have speaker protection and a soft start on the order should be with me in February- aiming to test power up around the second week.
Decided to use AVC autoformer volume control from Tribute, Netherlands without a buffer for now. Will see how it is going to perform.
I have never undertaken a build of this complexity before, will probably post close pics of boards before I connect them to the power supply if you don't mind 🙂
Things are getting exciting!
EDIT: Looks like I can do 18 turns to reach 1.5 uH. The question now is gauge is fine.
One mistake I made is the assumption ebay 60/40 solder will be any good. It gave me more trouble than I anticipated. I have almost completely soldered input boards using it- to realise I was making a mistake. Ordered proper quality 100% leaded solder- day and night difference!
I have ordered 2 fewer Schottky diodes- so had to look them up elsewhere. EBay seller (good reviews) had some reasonably priced. Not sure if diodes can be counterfeit/ fake or not.
Another thing/mistake- I ve got a coil of 19 gauge (1mm) , not 18 (1.2mm)- can I use it?
I have speaker protection and a soft start on the order should be with me in February- aiming to test power up around the second week.
Decided to use AVC autoformer volume control from Tribute, Netherlands without a buffer for now. Will see how it is going to perform.
I have never undertaken a build of this complexity before, will probably post close pics of boards before I connect them to the power supply if you don't mind 🙂
Things are getting exciting!
EDIT: Looks like I can do 18 turns to reach 1.5 uH. The question now is gauge is fine.
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You can start testing/calibration without speakers/protection.
Anyway, for a build in the 1.000€ region I wouldn't go for diodes from eBay. But this is just my personal view.
Anyway, for a build in the 1.000€ region I wouldn't go for diodes from eBay. But this is just my personal view.
Looking good. 1 thing I noticed is none of the vias have been soldered yet on the ips or output boards, I would get that done before you populate with more components.
Close up pics would be great. Great job and you are getting close!
Close up pics would be great. Great job and you are getting close!
Honestly eBay anything is not worth taking the risk especially when parts are available at reputable sources
I will fire it up with 0.3 A max as per bom. I meant to fire it up in second half of February in full glory 🙂
Thanks, Andy, I have paused with soldering to have a fresh look later.
Thanks, Andy, I have paused with soldering to have a fresh look later.
Mirror image boards would require a new layout and greatly increase the cost of the boards, but yes it would make things a little neater in the end.
I don't see any issue with you using your 2W resistors.
Nice looking boards! Just one thing: check the direction you soldered r11 and r25 trimpots. If you decide to install the boards parallel to the heatsinks and in a way so that both IPS look towards the same side, you might meet some problems in adjusting those trimpots once the build is done.
Gaetano.
Gaetano.
You are right. One bord will be facing down. But we make adjustments whilst boards&heatsinks on the bench?
The only recommendation I have so far- is to make C112 holes a tad bigger. The cap I got (Panasonic) barely fit into the holes.