You could need to furtherly adjust DC offset and bias once the amp is closed. It could heat up differently from boards laying down on the bench... But nevertheless, I did as you're doing when built the Honey Badger and it has been working flawlessly for more than one year.You are right. One bord will be facing down. But we make adjustments whilst boards&heatsinks on the bench?
One mistake I made is the assumption ebay 60/40 solder will be any good. It gave me more trouble than I anticipated. I have almost completely soldered input boards using it- to realise I was making a mistake. Ordered proper quality 100% leaded solder- day and night difference!
Actually 60/40, Sn60/Pb40, 60% Tin/40% Lead (al the same thing) is the right one, providing it has flux cores, the melting point is approximately 188 Celsius. While 100% lead solder has a melting point of 327 Celsius, and is unsuitable for PCB soldering.
I know. But clearly ebay one is of a poorer quality, bad flow, goes grey etc. By 💯 leaded I mean containing lead, not lead free solder sold as having one.
The holes are metallized, its best to avoid drilling.The only recommendation I have so far- is to make C112 holes a tad bigger. The cap I got (Panasonic) barely fit into the holes.
I won't. Will order different capsThe holes are metallized, its best to avoid drilling.
I prefer 63/37 rosin myself, 0.8mm or .032" for majority of work
Excellent choice.
I still have a few kilograms 60/40 Multicore 0.9 mm on stock, using this type for some 50+ years now, partly professional. It probable covers my needs for the remaining years.
Hi Guy's. I have just uploaded a BOM updated. Changes are noted at the end of the file. A big thanks to @Harry3 and @fireanimal for there hard work and dedication to this project. Their hard work ensures all members have access to the very latest information regarding component selection.
Just a recommendation but when you guys are setting the bias dc offset etc on the bench before installing in a case do not lie them down flat, stand the heatsink upright, it makes a huge difference.
I wonder if you have tried seeing the response of the amplifier to offset and maintaining the temperature and quiescent current in the heatsink with the transistors up and then down. I believe that would be of interest to many here as far as placing the boards inside the box.
Αll your findings and those of our team have helped a lot in the construction of the amplifier.....the most complete presentation I've seen in a long time.
BR Nikos
Can I recommend @Bonsai boards https://hifisonix.com/shop-categories/power-amplifiers/
He has been a great help with all his articles and advice on this thread.
He has been a great help with all his articles and advice on this thread.
I have. I've set them up on the bench and noticed no real change if they are inverted or not. Also the completed chassis I have show no issues in either orientation. There is nothing to worry about. The heatsink is such a large mass it does a great job of dispersing the heat.I wonder if you have tried seeing the response of the amplifier to offset and maintaining the temperature and quiescent current in the heatsink with the transistors up and then down. I believe that would be of interest to many here as far as placing the boards inside the box.
Αll your findings and those of our team have helped a lot in the construction of the amplifier.....the most complete presentation I've seen in a long time.
BR Nikos
Soft as a feather from xrk. And his speaker protection. I ordered pcbs from Matk Johnson first, which is arguably the best SS circuit. But ordered one of the smaller footprint pcbs redesigned by another guy. Just because it was smaller. But lo and behold he made an error with the design and I had to either reorder anew or just buy one from xrk, as an addition to his mini gb for speaker protection. Which I did@voxxonline ; which soft start and spkr protection boards are you getting?
All dressed-up and ready but nowhere to go......
EF3-3 boards (build in tandem with the EF3-4), Power Supply, Soft Start and Speaker Protection boards all done and just needs to be tested and fitted to a chassis.
Will be ordering a 4U chassis soon (work pressure has slowed my amp building down to a trickle now)
The EF3-4 amp (as per my photo's in previous posts) has been playing non-stop throughout the holidays. Room temp goes up to about 30deg C at times and the heatsink temps has not exceeded 43/44deg C (one board is fitted "upside down" to ensure that both IPS boards are close to the input connectors). I've been using both the DiyAudio Soft Start and Speaker protection boards which has worked flawlessly.
Using the Whammy pre-amp and all in all, I'm extremely happy with the amps' sound and performance. Open and clear at all volumes, tight bass and no listening fatigue.....and ….it has power!
EF3-3 boards (build in tandem with the EF3-4), Power Supply, Soft Start and Speaker Protection boards all done and just needs to be tested and fitted to a chassis.
Will be ordering a 4U chassis soon (work pressure has slowed my amp building down to a trickle now)
The EF3-4 amp (as per my photo's in previous posts) has been playing non-stop throughout the holidays. Room temp goes up to about 30deg C at times and the heatsink temps has not exceeded 43/44deg C (one board is fitted "upside down" to ensure that both IPS boards are close to the input connectors). I've been using both the DiyAudio Soft Start and Speaker protection boards which has worked flawlessly.
Using the Whammy pre-amp and all in all, I'm extremely happy with the amps' sound and performance. Open and clear at all volumes, tight bass and no listening fatigue.....and ….it has power!
Attachments
@Studley@voxxonline ; which soft start and spkr protection boards are you getting?
I won’t use anything else besides a Neurochrome Guardian-86 for obvious reasons. For soft starts there are multiple options but I do know the Neurochrome ISS has been tested with 2kva toroids fwiw.
Best,
Anand.
Is there a recommendation how to wire it up when using an SMPS? Esp. the Fast-Off is required but seems not so easy to get. Maybe use an aux supply?Can I recommend @Bonsai boards https://hifisonix.com/shop-categories/power-amplifiers/
He has been a great help with all his articles and advice on this thread.
@poseidonsvoice ; I agree Anand in that Tom’s modules would be my top choice if price wasn’t a consideration. They are pretty pricey compared to other options and being on the other side of the pond just makes them even more expensive What with shipping and import taxes 🙁
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