Finished Wayne's Line Stage. Was a bit nervous that I solder bridged the SMDs in place when I first played music on it, but after about 50 hours of continuous play, it settled down nicely. Gosh, it is changing my listening exp. Not used to this large a sound stage. Utterly delighted. Thank you, Wayne, and all the other geniuses here like 6L6 and Mark Johnson and others too numerous to shoutout.
Questions:
In a potential SUSY BA2018, what would need to be matched if using the larger outputs?
KSC2690/1220?
2SK209?
Also, do you need a way to control bias on each side? From what I remember seeing in SUSY amplifier, you need differential offset, absolute offset and bias for each side. I am wondering if you have to match the bias from + and - with the preamps output devices
Running bridged on these amps seems to null out the 2nd harmonic. Would running SUSY do the same thing?
Thanks 🙂
In a potential SUSY BA2018, what would need to be matched if using the larger outputs?
KSC2690/1220?
2SK209?
Also, do you need a way to control bias on each side? From what I remember seeing in SUSY amplifier, you need differential offset, absolute offset and bias for each side. I am wondering if you have to match the bias from + and - with the preamps output devices
Running bridged on these amps seems to null out the 2nd harmonic. Would running SUSY do the same thing?
Thanks 🙂
I believe it'll need some sort of servo on each phase, to keep offsets controlled
and yes, right from the box it'll null even harmonics
if you want some, you need to deliberately spoil symmetry
and yes, right from the box it'll null even harmonics
if you want some, you need to deliberately spoil symmetry
Hello
Looking for some advice on best implementation for a fully balanced preamp. Is Wayne linestage a good choice? the build looks straight forward. so far have done Aleph J, ACA mini, KGHV Carbon Stax headphone amp and crossover network,. Love the DIY audio so much that I am trying to getting rid of my commercial rigs over the years…
I would need a 4 pole attenuator and selector for fully balanced mode. Any recommendations where to find a good quality stepped volume control with reliable relays other than Ebay? not fond of old school mechanical attenuators
Thanks for your help!
Looking for some advice on best implementation for a fully balanced preamp. Is Wayne linestage a good choice? the build looks straight forward. so far have done Aleph J, ACA mini, KGHV Carbon Stax headphone amp and crossover network,. Love the DIY audio so much that I am trying to getting rid of my commercial rigs over the years…
I would need a 4 pole attenuator and selector for fully balanced mode. Any recommendations where to find a good quality stepped volume control with reliable relays other than Ebay? not fond of old school mechanical attenuators
Thanks for your help!
I know you said you don't like the mechnical attenuators, but the Khozmo attenuators are fantastic, and simpler than the relay-based ones.
I've used a 4PDT switch in some such builds. Very simple, and relatively cheap. Goldpoint makes a nice rotary selector, but it's pricier.
BTW, if you don't need pre-amp gain, then you can build a balanced B1 quite cheaply. Pretty amazing sound.
I've used a 4PDT switch in some such builds. Very simple, and relatively cheap. Goldpoint makes a nice rotary selector, but it's pricier.
BTW, if you don't need pre-amp gain, then you can build a balanced B1 quite cheaply. Pretty amazing sound.
I used the Joshua Tree attenuator and the Darwin selector switch from Twisted Pear Audio years ago with a balanced preamp based on a Pass design. Both worked great. Joshua Tree is still available. Darwin went extinct.
The Muse is what Pass uses these days, is it not? I bought a kit for that a while ago but never built it. The chip itself is probably dead now.
I used the Khozmo in a super-tricked-out Whammy (Vishay Z-Foil resistors, Jantzen Silver caps, etc), and it's wonderful. I've got two more about to go into a balanced B1, also with Z-Foils and Jantzens.
I used the Khozmo in a super-tricked-out Whammy (Vishay Z-Foil resistors, Jantzen Silver caps, etc), and it's wonderful. I've got two more about to go into a balanced B1, also with Z-Foils and Jantzens.
For me, when source is a DAC or SS output device, the Muses sound better than any mechanical attenuator I tried. I think it all depends on the application. For example, my Goldpoint (100K) sound inferior to the Muses if the source is a DAC but sounds great when using a phono or tube output CD player as source. I have three Muses (20k per spec sheet) VC and really like them. I spent $60.00 per completed unit including remote control IR receiver assembled by me back in the day not including the Adafruit display. One example is below.
Yes, a 4 pole rotary would work. I've used a 4PDT toggle switch for this purpose, too, and you can get a decent one for $15 or so at Mouser. Of course that limits you to two inputs. I'm currently wiring up a balanced B1 with a Goldpoint 4P rotary switch. That was about $80 and gives three inputs. If you want more, you can do a two-deck switch, which raises the price to $120 or so.
For volume, there is a 4 gang Alps pot that you can find on EBay for $30 or so. I've seen it a few other places, but not reliably. You could also go with two stereo pots. I'm doing this in the B1, because I need balance (in the other sense) due to hearing deficits in my right ear. The Khozmo pots are great but very expensive.
One thing you might consider: a mute switch. (Very convenient.) For this, you can use a very basic 4P switch. Wire the outputs to it and connect everything so that, when you throw the switch, the signal routes through a 10 or 100 ohm resistor to ground. Wayne suggested this strategy somewhere. It's what Pass does in their own stuff.
For volume, there is a 4 gang Alps pot that you can find on EBay for $30 or so. I've seen it a few other places, but not reliably. You could also go with two stereo pots. I'm doing this in the B1, because I need balance (in the other sense) due to hearing deficits in my right ear. The Khozmo pots are great but very expensive.
One thing you might consider: a mute switch. (Very convenient.) For this, you can use a very basic 4P switch. Wire the outputs to it and connect everything so that, when you throw the switch, the signal routes through a 10 or 100 ohm resistor to ground. Wayne suggested this strategy somewhere. It's what Pass does in their own stuff.
regarding balanced, is it recommended to have two power supplies? One for each board?
Or could I get away with a single Peter Millet Opamp PSU board or AMB Sigma ó22.
Or could I get away with a single Peter Millet Opamp PSU board or AMB Sigma ó22.
I doubt this thing draws much power, so a single PSU will probably be fine. But you could go dual mono....
The VRDN supply was more or less built for this application. That's what I'm planning for mine.
Awesome! Trying one board first is ideal for me.
I’ve tried to find the VDRN board to purchase. Do you have a link where I could buy?
I’ve tried to find the VDRN board to purchase. Do you have a link where I could buy?
You can send out the Gerber files to have them made (not cheap because they are complicated 4 layer boards) or maybe some forum members have some extra they can sell you. See https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...l-ckts-11v-to-20v-1-5a-with-de-noiser.355883/
MJ lists the BOM & the Gerber zipped file if you want to send out to have them made in Post #1
Cheers
You could also try asking in that thread if other people want a board and organize a group buy. I'd probably take one, for example.
Big Thanks to many from this first-time builder! This forum has been an extremely helpful source of information as I completed the preamp. Thanks to all of you who contributed. And of course to Wayne for providing the design, having boards made, etc. Special thanks go to my local "go to" resource person here in Davis -- Bob Flocchini. Bob provided great advice every time I got stuck with this build. Here are the parts I used if interested.
Galaxy 2U w/Steel covers 330mm x 280mm/3mm black. plus chassis baseplate.
Mouser:
Neutrik RCA Phono Connectors - 568-NYS367-2, 568-NYS367-2
NKK Toggle Switch - 633-S333R
CUI Devices Phone Connector 6.35 mm Stereo ver - 490-SJ-63083A
Glassware:
FrontPanel PCB & Switches, Metal-film resistors (-2dB/-12dB)
Hookup wire, 2M-Teflon-FEP
Amazon:
Kaish 1-3/16" (30mm) Diameter aluminium potentiometer knobs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B31GBTQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power supply
Hotshot Model 73111
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-...Tracking-Regulator-w-Soft-Start-/322153708842
Oh, and some feet for the pre from an old Pioneer integrated I had around...
Galaxy 2U w/Steel covers 330mm x 280mm/3mm black. plus chassis baseplate.
Mouser:
Neutrik RCA Phono Connectors - 568-NYS367-2, 568-NYS367-2
NKK Toggle Switch - 633-S333R
CUI Devices Phone Connector 6.35 mm Stereo ver - 490-SJ-63083A
Glassware:
FrontPanel PCB & Switches, Metal-film resistors (-2dB/-12dB)
Hookup wire, 2M-Teflon-FEP
Amazon:
Kaish 1-3/16" (30mm) Diameter aluminium potentiometer knobs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B31GBTQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power supply
Hotshot Model 73111
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-...Tracking-Regulator-w-Soft-Start-/322153708842
Oh, and some feet for the pre from an old Pioneer integrated I had around...
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