I'm also planning to build a sealed enclosure and use it with a Yamaha subwoofer I have that can go down to 20Hz. I am not an expert in building speakers but I investigated on the Internet and found that this SB Acoustics full-range can be used with either a sealed or ported enclosure and for a sealed enclosure of 27 liters I found that the f-3 = 63.62Hz, (Frequency where the level has dropped by 3 dB).
But if you have enough space for big speakers you can build a DDVP-20(TQWT) previously suggested here in this forum (that might be the best solution to optimize the bass response) or use another ported enclosure and you might not need subwoofer.
You can check this site: http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/CBCV.html
I hope this information is helpful🙂
Thanks Alexander for info. I will build both sealed and tqwd and experience the difference then deside
I am in discussions with a carpenter to build this cabinet with 15mm wood.
2 question-
Intend to do slight modification by increasing the thickness of the internal labyrinth and the area behind the speaker with 12mm plywood.
Will these affect the sound significantly?
Secondly, how critical is it for for all the joints to be airtight?
2 question-
Intend to do slight modification by increasing the thickness of the internal labyrinth and the area behind the speaker with 12mm plywood.
Will these affect the sound significantly?
Secondly, how critical is it for for all the joints to be airtight?
1- just add dowels for bracing the labyrinth and the side panels, don't double with 15+12mm plywood. Or do you mean you want to use 12mm instead of 15mm for the path? and why?
2- Absolutely critical. Any leaks and you'll have no bass.
2- Absolutely critical. Any leaks and you'll have no bass.
my plan is to make the side panel removable for adjustment of amount of the internal polywool and to fix the internal speaker wire from the rear wall .
After doing this, screw the side panel to the internal labyrinth. 15 +12 mm thickness of the labyrinth ensure enough strength for the screws to bite.
After doing this, screw the side panel to the internal labyrinth. 15 +12 mm thickness of the labyrinth ensure enough strength for the screws to bite.
A bit of an update on my open baffle design using this driver. I added two 'bass modules' (sealed 6.5 inch Dayton classic 4 ohm woofer per unit) driven mono (series wired) from a little sub amp crossed at about 150hz approx. The SBs remain full range. This really has helped fill in the LF dip that I assume was caused by back wave cancellation.
Music is considerably more full-bodied and punchy now. This change has also enabled me to drop the bass down to +1db on the main amp and, now that the drivers are more run in, I have upped the treble from -1db to flat. This has given back a bit of 'air' that was missing. Overall, given that this was my first proper attempt at an OB set-up then I'm pretty pleased with the results. Each change has made the setup more refined and more HiFi (soundstage now extends a bit left and right of the speakers) but the 'live' feel to the sound that was the strong point from day one it still intact.
Music is considerably more full-bodied and punchy now. This change has also enabled me to drop the bass down to +1db on the main amp and, now that the drivers are more run in, I have upped the treble from -1db to flat. This has given back a bit of 'air' that was missing. Overall, given that this was my first proper attempt at an OB set-up then I'm pretty pleased with the results. Each change has made the setup more refined and more HiFi (soundstage now extends a bit left and right of the speakers) but the 'live' feel to the sound that was the strong point from day one it still intact.
Would the SB20 work in the Silbatone box? I'm working on some and was wondering because they are a good price.
That would be easy to input those specs into a speaker simulation and see how it fares.
From the old winISD to the newer HornResp.
From the old winISD to the newer HornResp.
Would be relatively easy to convert to a 1.25m tapered TLonken (ML-TL) with two braced slanted dividers.
Hello nandappe. My carpenter friend is about to start the building of the cabinet. Hope you help to clarify some thoughts.
The 28 GM felt wool mentioned in the drawing of the box.
This refers to 28gm for the top of the cabinet and the roundover together?
Is the 28gm critical or estimate and adjust.
Can l use this material? See picture. It is 3mm thick felt for handicrafts
Is the amount of polyester used to be precise or adjust to suit room and amp?
Thanks
kp93300
The 28 GM felt wool mentioned in the drawing of the box.
This refers to 28gm for the top of the cabinet and the roundover together?
Is the 28gm critical or estimate and adjust.
Can l use this material? See picture. It is 3mm thick felt for handicrafts
Is the amount of polyester used to be precise or adjust to suit room and amp?
Thanks
kp93300
Attachments
The quilt batting is 28 grams each for the top panel and dividers.
I think that the density is too high if it is the one in kp93300's photo.
You can adjust the amount of sound absorbent material as you like.
The quilt batting I use is like the one in the URL.
https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Ba...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
I think that the density is too high if it is the one in kp93300's photo.
You can adjust the amount of sound absorbent material as you like.
The quilt batting I use is like the one in the URL.
https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Ba...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Hello nandappe, thank you for reply. Items ordered on line.
Can you share whether you do internal bracing and if affirmative, how do you do it.?
Secondly, how to adjust the padding amount? Via the hole for the speaker or via the detachable rear panel?
I am considering leaving the top panel detachable. Is there any negative to consider?
The carpenter will be using 18 mm pine wood
Can you share whether you do internal bracing and if affirmative, how do you do it.?
Secondly, how to adjust the padding amount? Via the hole for the speaker or via the detachable rear panel?
I am considering leaving the top panel detachable. Is there any negative to consider?
The carpenter will be using 18 mm pine wood