I buffed up a nice turd the other day - a Gateway core 2 quad that lost its HDD on windows 7. 22k hours on that drive. Installed W10 using the same key number on the tag. I paid $5 for it at a yard sale. Should probably put the quad chip in my Dell core 2 machine at my garage workbench and take the extra 4G memory for that machine too, for $5... I'm sure I got a syringe of proc goo somewhere.
It was an internal power supply made with a Tinyswitch or Topswitch? If yes than is a must to be 47uF and not 4.7uF.
I says transformer and PCB on the unit door
There are two cables connected to sockets on the display PCB, one for the supply and IR receiver, and one for the temperature and status displays.
These capacitors were across the 5V rails of the IR receiver as a filter.
The load is tiny, so no need to have a 47 uF really.
If the issue persists, then I will open up the main PCB, which may mean calling in a technician.
There are two cables connected to sockets on the display PCB, one for the supply and IR receiver, and one for the temperature and status displays.
These capacitors were across the 5V rails of the IR receiver as a filter.
The load is tiny, so no need to have a 47 uF really.
If the issue persists, then I will open up the main PCB, which may mean calling in a technician.
Last edited:
Just built up a model railway DCC shuttle and station stop controller.
A new design so has never been tested before.
Train on track and nothing.
Relays clicking ok. Scope says good DCC signal.
So shoved loco a bit and it started working.
Problem is dirty track.
A new design so has never been tested before.
Train on track and nothing.
Relays clicking ok. Scope says good DCC signal.
So shoved loco a bit and it started working.
Problem is dirty track.
How do you clean your track? Back when I was into model railroad and used brass track, I'd scrape the track with a copper penny to remove the oxide 🙂
Eventually, I started using nickel.
Eventually, I started using nickel.
Audiolab 8000T. The bulbs were defunct so I made three LED replacements. They are more like spotlights than the old bulbs but at least I can read the display now.
Anyone know how to make an FM antenna? I have made several DAB antennas but don't know the length for FM. (I'm only getting strength 4/10 on Radio 4).
Anyone know how to make an FM antenna? I have made several DAB antennas but don't know the length for FM. (I'm only getting strength 4/10 on Radio 4).
Not a good idea.
Better to use those scrubby pads used for polishing pots and pans.
You don't want metal threads winding up stuck in the tracks.
There was a rubber slab, similar to a typewriter eraser (kids, ask your mom) but different. I know this was the Right Stuff because it had the same brand-name as the track.
Yes.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fm+dipole+length
Either paper towel with alcohol or a pencil eraser.
I dont have much room to test pcb's so I slip the wheels holding loco with hand gently.
This causes a bit of arcing and so build up on the track.
Typewriter eraser (!), or a hard fiberglass brush, those are to be used with caution.
I use a needle file or carbide stick, but only rarely.
I use a needle file or carbide stick, but only rarely.
A lawn mower handle bar broken.
The right side was repaired, the left side broke and is on the way to the same repair.
Hopefully going to be stronger than the original.
The right side was repaired, the left side broke and is on the way to the same repair.
Hopefully going to be stronger than the original.
Got one of those harbor freight (I assume) propane tank powered weed burners at a yard sale, for $10. Came with an unusual tank made of fiberglass, where I could see through to the level of the propane inside. It's probably 2/3 - 3/4 full. No regulator on the tank nor connecting hose.
Tried to light it and nothing.
Squeezing the handle, I could hear the gas rush, but nothing flow wise to run a pilot. Open the valve part. Inside, there's a brass cup attached to the end of the valve shaft. Observed the brass cup part has a small nick in the edge. The rubber donut has a corresponding nick, but it was rotated to no longer coincide.
Fixing that, still didnt work. So I started looking at my file collection. No 1/8" rat, but I do have a triangular one. Sawed a little bit more into both the cup and washer - put it back together - a little perceptible hiss where there was none at all before; there we go! Lights, maintains a pilot flame, really takes off when you squeeze the level slightly; working again.
One has to appreciate the cheapness of, instead of an actual channel with a screwdriver adjustment to set the pilot level, you get a nick in a couple of washers to make a leaky valve...
Tried to light it and nothing.
Squeezing the handle, I could hear the gas rush, but nothing flow wise to run a pilot. Open the valve part. Inside, there's a brass cup attached to the end of the valve shaft. Observed the brass cup part has a small nick in the edge. The rubber donut has a corresponding nick, but it was rotated to no longer coincide.
Fixing that, still didnt work. So I started looking at my file collection. No 1/8" rat, but I do have a triangular one. Sawed a little bit more into both the cup and washer - put it back together - a little perceptible hiss where there was none at all before; there we go! Lights, maintains a pilot flame, really takes off when you squeeze the level slightly; working again.
One has to appreciate the cheapness of, instead of an actual channel with a screwdriver adjustment to set the pilot level, you get a nick in a couple of washers to make a leaky valve...
Check the life of those tanks, they are known to disintegrate, though pressure is low (15 bar ) compared to compressed natural gas (200 bar).
CNG is mostly Methane, 450 grams per liter.
We get vaporizers here for LPG (Butane - Propane mix) engines, they are used as conversions, can use gasoline or LPG.
Same system for Propane, really, not much change in gas properties.
No pilot valve or light, just solenoid valves and electric fuel pump for gasoline, the change over can be done when needed with a switch, that has controls for tank solenoid / vaporizer solenoid, fuel pump, engine running sensor, which fuel to use and so on.
Simple, LM339 and LM358, a few transistors, a relay...
CNG is mostly Methane, 450 grams per liter.
We get vaporizers here for LPG (Butane - Propane mix) engines, they are used as conversions, can use gasoline or LPG.
Same system for Propane, really, not much change in gas properties.
No pilot valve or light, just solenoid valves and electric fuel pump for gasoline, the change over can be done when needed with a switch, that has controls for tank solenoid / vaporizer solenoid, fuel pump, engine running sensor, which fuel to use and so on.
Simple, LM339 and LM358, a few transistors, a relay...
A ballast repair of my jvc RS 4910 projector. Unlike the X90 which was a generic controller chip on the ballast and easily changed out, this later model has ram and apparent programable parimeters inside the chip making a complete (Ushio) ballast swap necessary. My original 6500k color temp was 9000k on this replacement ballast and weird it changed color temps . Easily changed back of course and the picture is stunning once again !
ballast is just a lamp HV power supply...unsure how this affects colour temp?...LCD change would though
Back in 1995 we bought our daughter a top of the line Roland JV-1000 music keyboard. She used it through high school and college to play and teach music. Unfortunately, after meeting and marrying a useless excuse for a human being, she pawned the $2500 keyboard for $100. I stole the pawn ticket and redeemed the keyboard. It is large and heavy, so I stored it in its road case sometime in the early 2000's. The JV has followed me around for 20 years, but last saw power in the late 2000's. I noticed some weirdness with the keys the last time I used it, but it didn't matter to me since I ran it over MIDI.
I got the JV out of its case for the first time in at least 10 years to find a sticky red goo all over the keys and oozing from several places around the edges. I actually had to pry the keyboard from its road case. Many of the weights from the keys were scattered inside the case covered in sticky or hardened red goo. Google reveals a possibly terminal illness called "Roland Red Glue disease." My JV had a severe case. Due to the random collection of loose weights, I assumed (correctly) that I would find more inside the unit, possibly on a PC board, so I did not power up the synth.
It seems that the epoxy used to glue the weights into the keys absorbs moisture and turns nasty! This has led to many once valuable keyboards being scrapped. There was no known solvent, but extremely alkaline solutions could often soften the hardened goo. In my case I had to dismantle the entire machine, remove the keyboard, then remove each individual key. After trying just about every trick on the internet I found that I needed drain cleaner spiked with pure lye (sodium hydroxide) to soften the hardened goo. It took two days of soaking the keys in a black tray left outside in the sun to get the goo to where I could scrape it out.
It has taken several hours a day (the limit of my patience) for over a week, but all of the keys are now cleaned, reinstalled, and the JV-1000 is once again making music. I am waiting for some special double sided tape to finish the repair, so the bottom cover is not yet installed.
I got the JV out of its case for the first time in at least 10 years to find a sticky red goo all over the keys and oozing from several places around the edges. I actually had to pry the keyboard from its road case. Many of the weights from the keys were scattered inside the case covered in sticky or hardened red goo. Google reveals a possibly terminal illness called "Roland Red Glue disease." My JV had a severe case. Due to the random collection of loose weights, I assumed (correctly) that I would find more inside the unit, possibly on a PC board, so I did not power up the synth.
It seems that the epoxy used to glue the weights into the keys absorbs moisture and turns nasty! This has led to many once valuable keyboards being scrapped. There was no known solvent, but extremely alkaline solutions could often soften the hardened goo. In my case I had to dismantle the entire machine, remove the keyboard, then remove each individual key. After trying just about every trick on the internet I found that I needed drain cleaner spiked with pure lye (sodium hydroxide) to soften the hardened goo. It took two days of soaking the keys in a black tray left outside in the sun to get the goo to where I could scrape it out.
It has taken several hours a day (the limit of my patience) for over a week, but all of the keys are now cleaned, reinstalled, and the JV-1000 is once again making music. I am waiting for some special double sided tape to finish the repair, so the bottom cover is not yet installed.
I cleaned a Casio synthesizer, I bought in the 80's for my son who had good use for it, then gave it and it happened I found it back after many years unsused and discarted because it had "burned".
Still working, the burning was just a cap expoded at the AC power inlet, that I simply removed.
Asked for a lot of cleaning, at the keyboard mainly.
Two cheap scratching pots needs new ones. 10k linear. To be done.
A vintage Casio that will be working like new.