When my combo convection oven / microwave started blowing smoke from the microwave generator thingy (cyclotron?) I opened it up and disconnected the power wires to the microwave power PCB. Now I have a nice convection oven on my deck for baking things outside when it is blazing hot in the summer and turning on the oven in the house is a really bad idea. I found that I could turn those "security screws" that are designed to keep you out of the microwave case using just a pair of plyers gripping the side of the screw. Next up, swapping out the tweeter on the JBL LSR 28p since that 18 month back ordered part finally showed up. Supply chain is long.
What did you last repair??
- Thread starter Dude111
- Start date
Changed volume pot on a dynaco sca35. Tubes were replaced by the owner ( JJ EL84, 6U8+adapters)
Also replaced power cord to a grounded EU compliant one.
Initially en EFB board was planned, but as all caps were fine and all measurments were ok this was
postponed after consulting with the owner.
Also replaced power cord to a grounded EU compliant one.
Initially en EFB board was planned, but as all caps were fine and all measurments were ok this was
postponed after consulting with the owner.
Hello my friends my last repair was my bike remote control the Hawck alarm from England ...it fell several times and stopped working. disassembled it I see one leg broken by smd transistor GC = 2SC2734 very hard to find ... ordered from Alliexress. it came after two months I installed it again and everything is fine.
Attachments
AC wall outlet for the microwave built-in cabinet cubby. Honestly, there's an GFA outlet just underneath that shelf on the same circuit; a hole at the back perhaps to accept a cord pass through? Guess cant have that unsightly cord!
Cheap [expletive deleted] used one of those "speed wire" outlets, which became intermittent I assume in time and over load spring contact heating. The outlet was also just hanging off 2" long screws, flappy bird style, with only the plastic faceplate giving it any support against plugging in. Seems the concept of "standoffs" was beyond whoever installed it. On the other hand, maybe they just intended the faceplate to break away, as the back of the oven mashed the plugged in outlet further back into the wall...
Well it's got two custom length tubular standoffs now, the copper romex wires are attached to the new outlet via those brass screws on each side and with a new faceplate - it's solid as a rock. Whatever family lives here long after I'm in the ground wont be resetting the clock after the power randomly dies in the middle of heating something.
Or maybe they just dont like microwaves and put an all in one screen there for kitchin' cookin' entertainment! Or a fish tank.
Cheap [expletive deleted] used one of those "speed wire" outlets, which became intermittent I assume in time and over load spring contact heating. The outlet was also just hanging off 2" long screws, flappy bird style, with only the plastic faceplate giving it any support against plugging in. Seems the concept of "standoffs" was beyond whoever installed it. On the other hand, maybe they just intended the faceplate to break away, as the back of the oven mashed the plugged in outlet further back into the wall...
Well it's got two custom length tubular standoffs now, the copper romex wires are attached to the new outlet via those brass screws on each side and with a new faceplate - it's solid as a rock. Whatever family lives here long after I'm in the ground wont be resetting the clock after the power randomly dies in the middle of heating something.
Or maybe they just dont like microwaves and put an all in one screen there for kitchin' cookin' entertainment! Or a fish tank.
"Repair"? When I bumped my bed, the bed light went out. I figure the wall outlet is bad. A lot of this house was wired with a 6-pack of beer. The outlet is in a bad place to get to, and I knew I would not like what I would find. Instead I got a power strip with longer cord and plugged to the -next- outlet on that wall. Probably last as long as I care.
I’ve had my share of burnt insulation and oxidized wire on unused “speed wire” outlets because the load on the next one was high. My favorite fix is a spec grade back-wire with the real clamp terminals and stranded wire pigtails. Pre twist the two incoming solid wires, then add the pigtail. When you unscrew the wire nut the pigtail comes off clean without interrupting the rest of the circuit. And you don’t get zapped trying to work on it hot so you still have light in the room.
Is there sone REASON the whole room (including the lights) needs to be on the same breaker or is it just being cheap and lazy on the part of the builder? I suspect the latter.
Is there sone REASON the whole room (including the lights) needs to be on the same breaker or is it just being cheap and lazy on the part of the builder? I suspect the latter.
Fixed the chart plotter on my nephew's RHIB. GPS, depth reading, speed, and AIS all worked but the charts themselves which are read from an SD card would not display. I hoped that there was some slight corrosion on the contacts of the SD card slot. I found a dummy SD card and carefully stuck a thin strip of fine wet & dry abrasive paper on it where the contacts would be. Applied some switch cleaner to the wet & dry and inserted and removed the card a few times. Problem solved.
Change the socket later, fine pitched job, see if a cell phone repair man will do it, the socket is easy to get for them. And they are skilled at such repairs.
Those are flash plated, and you removed a lot of the plating by using abrasive, it is a very thin layer.
So get it changed, less hassle later.
Those are flash plated, and you removed a lot of the plating by using abrasive, it is a very thin layer.
So get it changed, less hassle later.