Not really a "repair" but more of a "modification/addition....
I added a pair of handles to the rear of the DIY jukebox that I created back in 2015.
The handles will make it easier to move around.
I added a pair of handles to the rear of the DIY jukebox that I created back in 2015.
The handles will make it easier to move around.
Picked up a Black and Decker 36v lawnmower at a yard sale. After asking how much, the guy just gave it to me, told me it had dead batteries and the pack was hard to get. Investigating, two of the three 12AH units were dead with shorted cells, one successfully took a charge. I mated that with two 9AH units I...picked up at a yards sale last year, which I kept charged in case I ever needed a floating, noise free 24V source. Guess I traded that off for a working lawnmower!
This one has the self propelled function, yet it successfully cut both front and back yard no problem with those 3 batteries at a full charge. I like it better than the "earth-wise" one I spoke of in the battery rejuvenation thread. Both are pretty heavy with the lead acid batteries and that self propelled part really helps.
This one has the self propelled function, yet it successfully cut both front and back yard no problem with those 3 batteries at a full charge. I like it better than the "earth-wise" one I spoke of in the battery rejuvenation thread. Both are pretty heavy with the lead acid batteries and that self propelled part really helps.
I got a mcgregor G7 300 watt mosfet amp off ebay.
The loudspeaker jack was noisy and crackly.
So back off and it was made in 1993 ! so not surprising pots and jacks are noisy.
Channel 1 is noisiest as used most.
Channel 2,3,4 are not too bad.
Might just leave input jacks and pots as the front panel needs a big strip down to get it out.
The reverb sprint looks a bit fragile so dont want to damage it.
The loudspeaker jack was noisy and crackly.
So back off and it was made in 1993 ! so not surprising pots and jacks are noisy.
Channel 1 is noisiest as used most.
Channel 2,3,4 are not too bad.
Might just leave input jacks and pots as the front panel needs a big strip down to get it out.
The reverb sprint looks a bit fragile so dont want to damage it.
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Thanks.
Illumination: white panel between front tweeters is for the record listing (1-60) of the numbered rack behind the turntable.
The left/right front pilasters flanking the woofers are slowly sequencing/fading (1-2-3) colored bulbs -red-yellow-blue.
The center pilaster houses 4 60W bulbs behind colored "gel" filters and activate as a "color organ" to the music.
(blue-bass....green-lower midrange....red-voice range....yellow-trumpets, cymbals, etc)
There's also a set of bulbs hidden in the roof of the lid to show off the turntable playing.
Microphone input on the front near the right tweeter with its own level control for any drunk that wants to make an announcement or try to "sing along".
Turntable holds about 12 45's, can be "rejected" from remote control, and CD player also.
It's capable of rattling the tools hanging in my garage if turned up.
My neighbors are insisting on a July 4th get together out back, and begging me to fire up that box.
Music sounding a bit wrong tonight.
Traced it down to my stereo to mono lead.
One of the stereo channels had a broken wire.
Had a look along the cable there was a cut in it.
My fault as my chair sometimes rolls over the wire.
So ordered a new lead and jack plugs off ebay.
Traced it down to my stereo to mono lead.
One of the stereo channels had a broken wire.
Had a look along the cable there was a cut in it.
My fault as my chair sometimes rolls over the wire.
So ordered a new lead and jack plugs off ebay.
Built up a circuit board.
Programmed the PIC and the LCD was dead.
Had a look around and found PIC crystal missing.
I had forgot I ran out of them.
Programmed the PIC and the LCD was dead.
Had a look around and found PIC crystal missing.
I had forgot I ran out of them.
Made up a speaker lead with jack plugs at either end.
Did the rookie mistake of not putting cover on lead first !
Did the rookie mistake of not putting cover on lead first !
Complete refurbish of Ampex ATR104 Tape Machine. 1/2" 4 track.
This machine was really knocked around physically, had numerous electronic and tape path issues and looked like it had sat in storage for an extended period.
Not too far off finishing but definitely a massive job with some real challenges.
TCD
This machine was really knocked around physically, had numerous electronic and tape path issues and looked like it had sat in storage for an extended period.
Not too far off finishing but definitely a massive job with some real challenges.
TCD
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Yesterday my son and I were returning from visiting my ex, and the truck had been behaving strangely when backing up. Like the brakes tried to engag. We were running about 20MPH when all of a sudden the steering wheel started oscillating violently and the truck shook. I pulled over into a vacant lot next to two dumpsters and we proceeded to inspect the vehicle. We both agreed it was too dangerous to drive, so I pulled out my cell phone and called the tow service to my favorite repair shop.
That qualifies as fixing it, doesn't it?
I suspect either the upper or lower ball joint, or the A frame bushings are bad. Either way I am not driving it.
That qualifies as fixing it, doesn't it?
I suspect either the upper or lower ball joint, or the A frame bushings are bad. Either way I am not driving it.
Split A/c receiver unit.
Changed 47/16 cap (marked) to 4.7/63, and replaced a 104 ceramic cap. Both were on 5V rail for IR receiver.
Also removed hot glue on legs of IR receiver, and stuck the back of it to the PCB using a little hot glue. It was stuck to PCB by putting hot glue on all three legs!
The Chinese 'Aishi' brand cap was marked 47uF/16V/105 C, and physically similar to the 4.7 / 63 / 85 C cap that was used as replacement.
Issue was it would start beeping after 15 minutes or so after power was given from MCB, as if a key was being repeatedly pressed on the remote, and start switching off and on by itself, like a chattering relay.
It has held up on standby during testing, and I had this issue earlier on a dot matrix printer (would stop and start during printing), so I knew this can happen on old machines.
The usual suspects are capacitors and hot glue, so both were attended to.
Also replaced a 4.7 on the remote control (marked 4.7, different Chinese make, same size as the '47' above), just in case, as the unit is 12 years old.
Changed 47/16 cap (marked) to 4.7/63, and replaced a 104 ceramic cap. Both were on 5V rail for IR receiver.
Also removed hot glue on legs of IR receiver, and stuck the back of it to the PCB using a little hot glue. It was stuck to PCB by putting hot glue on all three legs!
The Chinese 'Aishi' brand cap was marked 47uF/16V/105 C, and physically similar to the 4.7 / 63 / 85 C cap that was used as replacement.
Issue was it would start beeping after 15 minutes or so after power was given from MCB, as if a key was being repeatedly pressed on the remote, and start switching off and on by itself, like a chattering relay.
It has held up on standby during testing, and I had this issue earlier on a dot matrix printer (would stop and start during printing), so I knew this can happen on old machines.
The usual suspects are capacitors and hot glue, so both were attended to.
Also replaced a 4.7 on the remote control (marked 4.7, different Chinese make, same size as the '47' above), just in case, as the unit is 12 years old.
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