Grundig M400, a pocket-sized AM/FM/SW1/SW2 radio with digital alarm and frequency display, but analog tuning. The "Power" and "Alarm" buttons had become almost completely unresponsive. I figured there were worn out switches or contacts, but it turned out the issue was grease migrating from the tuning gear along the board and under the switch contacts. Wiping the switch contacts (PC board and clicky metal dome) with IPA and a Q-tip made it work like new.
Cat attack victim linkwitz glued back together. The dent in the woofer is annoying me!
Then, last night the cat damaged the satori from my Troels sba10. I'm starting to think the cat doesn't like me / speakers. The speakers will be moving to their own cat free "safe space" later today.
If someone could recommend a good adhesive to repair that tear / slash in the woofer that would be great..
Then, last night the cat damaged the satori from my Troels sba10. I'm starting to think the cat doesn't like me / speakers. The speakers will be moving to their own cat free "safe space" later today.
If someone could recommend a good adhesive to repair that tear / slash in the woofer that would be great..
Attachments
Torn rubber like ring is damaged.
Black soft fabric paint, the kind used to put decorative blobs, may work.
Or black silicon bathroom / window caulk, the non hardening type.
If you can sort of get the gap's edges close enough, use Pliobond or similar contact cement, hold in place with masking tape till it sets.
If it is a material like PU or EVA, carpenter's glue, with black pigment added, or sticker glue.
Sticker glue is used in the back of stickers, and release material used to cover it till actually sticking it where needed.
Quite a versatile material, but it becomes non working, goes stiff in the jar in about three months. Kerosene is the solvent for it.
Black soft fabric paint, the kind used to put decorative blobs, may work.
Or black silicon bathroom / window caulk, the non hardening type.
If you can sort of get the gap's edges close enough, use Pliobond or similar contact cement, hold in place with masking tape till it sets.
If it is a material like PU or EVA, carpenter's glue, with black pigment added, or sticker glue.
Sticker glue is used in the back of stickers, and release material used to cover it till actually sticking it where needed.
Quite a versatile material, but it becomes non working, goes stiff in the jar in about three months. Kerosene is the solvent for it.
Old washing machine, front loader, rotary cam switch, with a tiny motor.
Sprayed the switches, the rotary and pianos, both. Door switch too.
Seems to have come alive...
Sprayed the switches, the rotary and pianos, both. Door switch too.
Seems to have come alive...
My phone was the last thing I repaired. Don't know how, but it felt out of my pocket, and the whole screen broke.
I had a return on a model railway power reverser module.
The buyer had turned the pot 360 degree's and ignored the stop.
So wasnt even making contact.
2 minutes to replace it.
The buyer had turned the pot 360 degree's and ignored the stop.
So wasnt even making contact.
2 minutes to replace it.
Today I woke up to the DEQ2496 that I just got from @Pano having no power... Fuse was good...
Opened it up and found a leaking/buldging Xunda 47uF 400V cap in the PSU. Replaced it with a 47uF 450V Rubycon and it's working again.
It's nice to be able to fix something without ordering anything or leaving the house 🙂
Opened it up and found a leaking/buldging Xunda 47uF 400V cap in the PSU. Replaced it with a 47uF 450V Rubycon and it's working again.
It's nice to be able to fix something without ordering anything or leaving the house 🙂
Oh no! But all good. Glad you got it fixed without leaving the house. I wonder if that cap was part of the infamous bad batch from a few years back?
You have to choose cats or high-end speakers.
You are not the first and certainly not the last.
An unusual one, never seen this before in an amp-NAD 3240pe
so when tried to use the bass and trebble there was a horrible grinding from both, so i turned it off and found them both totaly broken
lucky i have original spares for these
any ideas how it may have happened, to both?? weird uh?
so when tried to use the bass and trebble there was a horrible grinding from both, so i turned it off and found them both totaly broken
lucky i have original spares for these
any ideas how it may have happened, to both?? weird uh?
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Perhaps an amateur repair attempt at removing the front sub panel without first removing the pot mounting nuts?
Hard to say, but that kind of damage takes significant force.
I've repaired several things with cracked / broken circuit boards because the unit was dropped, and usually the owner was too embarrassed to say so.
Hard to say, but that kind of damage takes significant force.
I've repaired several things with cracked / broken circuit boards because the unit was dropped, and usually the owner was too embarrassed to say so.
Last thing through my kitchen...errr....workshop was a Pioneer SX-636 which gave terrible crackling on left channel. Speaker terminals were jumping to -27V on my 8 Ohm 60 Watt dummy load. The fix was to replace pair Q1/Q3 together with Q5 and to maintain balance with the right channel the same was done with Q2, Q4 and Q6. The notorious 2SA726 replaced with BC214 and the likewise the renowned noisy 2SC1451's were replaced with 2SC3502.
I, too, have a brother. If you get the low ink message, there's a way to fool the printer into thinking everything is alright. You must tape a little hole in the toner; I'm not sure which one because my friend did it, but it's most likely on the internet. Anyway, the low ink issue occurred around a year and a half ago, and we're still using the same toner.
I use a continuous ink system; I cannot praise it enough.
Apart from a colossal saving in ink cost it also avoids not having a replacement cartridge to hand at an inopportune time.
It uses re-settable cartridges as the originals are chipped.
It is annoying when you have to re-set a cartridge mid print but that's the fault of Epson and not the continuous ink system.
Apart from a colossal saving in ink cost it also avoids not having a replacement cartridge to hand at an inopportune time.
It uses re-settable cartridges as the originals are chipped.
It is annoying when you have to re-set a cartridge mid print but that's the fault of Epson and not the continuous ink system.
I’m not a coder myself (hate it) - but has anyone successfully rewritten the firmware in one of those @#$*( Epson ink jet printers?
Put the Epson in a microwave oven for 5 seconds - it will erase the firmware 😛 (no, don't do that stupid), and then buy a laser printer.
So does a baseball bat when it redirects you to the online store and won’t let you off the page without either buying cartridges or rebooting the computer. That was the last straw.