Well I got home yesterday and installed my new RME setup...
I have to say that I can't complain much...
What I noticed when I was testing several slopes again and xo frequencies for the lows :
Even if you take a girl like youn sun nah, if you don't cross at 300hz with a high slope you would have some of the voice coming from the woofer. If you try 500hz you have lots of things.
This is why I think I will stay with my wide range spirit, 300-2500...
That said the beyma 12b100r is not bad at all in this range (below 300).
As I think I will keep using 16cms mids, it is true that I could stay with 12".
I have to optimise my test box for resonances and damping, nothing inside right now.
In that case 12pr320 looks nice yes, but not sure there is a cry need for them here...
I am going to learn how to measure well and try phase correction using convolution and rephase. Got a French tutorial for that. Also I posted on another thread a French video about room and studio sound optimizers you learn a lot from that.
Basically I am convinced that at a reasonable SPL at home lots of optimized systems could work almost the same...
RME sound cards are great, there is a lot of micro details. And the drivers are perfect.
I have to say that I can't complain much...
What I noticed when I was testing several slopes again and xo frequencies for the lows :
Even if you take a girl like youn sun nah, if you don't cross at 300hz with a high slope you would have some of the voice coming from the woofer. If you try 500hz you have lots of things.
This is why I think I will stay with my wide range spirit, 300-2500...
That said the beyma 12b100r is not bad at all in this range (below 300).
As I think I will keep using 16cms mids, it is true that I could stay with 12".
I have to optimise my test box for resonances and damping, nothing inside right now.
In that case 12pr320 looks nice yes, but not sure there is a cry need for them here...
I am going to learn how to measure well and try phase correction using convolution and rephase. Got a French tutorial for that. Also I posted on another thread a French video about room and studio sound optimizers you learn a lot from that.
Basically I am convinced that at a reasonable SPL at home lots of optimized systems could work almost the same...
RME sound cards are great, there is a lot of micro details. And the drivers are perfect.
Not following this thread from the beginning but i have the 15’ faital FH and its amazing. Id thought Id love more bass but I already need to dial it down in room. I wish its fs goes lower but its ridiculously sensitive at 98db spl it can take a ton of boost with dsl. I boost almost 10db below 30hz with minidsp and the 3rd order distortion is still <1% from 30hz up at 83db (10 feet from the speakers).
Thanks for feedback.
I guess you are using sealed box ?
Is it easy to measure below 100hz?
Which FH?
Thanks
I guess you are using sealed box ?
Is it easy to measure below 100hz?
Which FH?
Thanks
faital 15fh510.
Not sure what you mean by easy to measure below 100hz? I guess you can do the floorplane or bring it out to the garden but I build an active system so I dont see the point of it. In the end, after “anechoic like” measurement and xover I needed to do a **** ton of EQ to make sure its flat to my listening spot anw so measurement at my listening position matters the most. Unless you usually listen to your speaker at 5 inch distance or in the garden of course lol.
Not sure what you mean by easy to measure below 100hz? I guess you can do the floorplane or bring it out to the garden but I build an active system so I dont see the point of it. In the end, after “anechoic like” measurement and xover I needed to do a **** ton of EQ to make sure its flat to my listening spot anw so measurement at my listening position matters the most. Unless you usually listen to your speaker at 5 inch distance or in the garden of course lol.
I take them outside to get a baseline measurement and EQ them flat there.Is it easy to measure below 100hz?
Then I move them into position in room and sweep. Room modes are usually obvious then in the measurements as I'd use a calculator to get rough numbers for them. If in doubt, move them a few m away and sweep again and try to work out what's causing what in the measurements. Then EQ as flat as possible at the LP, knocking down peaks and not boosting up the nulls.
Ok thanks you guys.
I guess everything is done in a sealed box...
If you take the simulated speaker in a sealed box you will have a rolloff starting at 100hz for ex minus baffle step plus room gain... basically, do you apply a kind of high pass low slope 4db/Oct at the roll-off frequency, to begin with...
I think I will seal the holes for my 12b100r and play with it a little bit... I ll compare simulation and what I can measure...
I have a behringer Omni microphone ecm8000
I guess everything is done in a sealed box...
If you take the simulated speaker in a sealed box you will have a rolloff starting at 100hz for ex minus baffle step plus room gain... basically, do you apply a kind of high pass low slope 4db/Oct at the roll-off frequency, to begin with...
I think I will seal the holes for my 12b100r and play with it a little bit... I ll compare simulation and what I can measure...
I have a behringer Omni microphone ecm8000
I would give it a LT, then 2nd order high pass where you want your LF roll off to be, say 30Hz. I'd be checking excursion and distortion to see where to roll it off, depending on the SPL I want. Then put it in room and measure again as you'll likely get some boundary gain. I never design expecting this, but if you get some, you can always turn down the LF a bit in EQ for a bit of headroom.If you take the simulated speaker in a sealed box you will have a rolloff starting at 100hz for ex minus baffle step plus room gain... basically, do you apply a kind of high pass low slope 4db/Oct at the roll-off frequency, to begin with...
If you do the sims right, then you can rely on them being right in 1/2 space and I just measure to confirm.
Ok thanks, any idea of a vst plugin that can do that. I will look at rephase and convolver...
Edit : seems possible, I will try this !
Edit : seems possible, I will try this !
Well,
Put sox in the vents.
Used winisd to see what was fc and qtc
put that in rephase correction mode, quickly read a french tutorial, generated convolution impulse
load it in vst convolver
First time it crashed, it is sensitive to sample rates ! I was worried I broke something damnit !
Reloaded, with a traditional 44.1 khz mode...
It seems to work !
Of course all the gains and delays between the lows mids and highs are to be done again...
I will check if it is stable first and if it works at 96khz first
Put sox in the vents.
Used winisd to see what was fc and qtc
put that in rephase correction mode, quickly read a french tutorial, generated convolution impulse
load it in vst convolver
First time it crashed, it is sensitive to sample rates ! I was worried I broke something damnit !
Reloaded, with a traditional 44.1 khz mode...
It seems to work !
Of course all the gains and delays between the lows mids and highs are to be done again...
I will check if it is stable first and if it works at 96khz first
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It is promising, of course a 15" will be better lol.
I guess I lost 6db, sounds ok with a 6db difference between the vented setup
I guess I lost 6db, sounds ok with a 6db difference between the vented setup
Wow man I have to thank you for telling me about that, it is great!
Now my concern is the stability at 96khz with convolver vst doing the convolution and then voxengo delays plus isotope ozone for the filters.
I put buffers at max size on the vst host...
Now my concern is the stability at 96khz with convolver vst doing the convolution and then voxengo delays plus isotope ozone for the filters.
I put buffers at max size on the vst host...
You mean the LT?Wow man I have to thank you for telling me about that, it is great!
Curious to see your results.
Yes,
I did a fast try no measures at all but it goes lower with better articulation and control !
Now I guess with convolution any 15" can work for home use at normal listening level...
So I should go with a polyvalent one so I can use different ways in case of a change...
Don't know if Google can translate well for you
https://www.petoindominique.fr/php/pc_rephase.php
I did a fast try no measures at all but it goes lower with better articulation and control !
Now I guess with convolution any 15" can work for home use at normal listening level...
So I should go with a polyvalent one so I can use different ways in case of a change...
Don't know if Google can translate well for you
https://www.petoindominique.fr/php/pc_rephase.php
This one is incredibly cheap...BMS 15s330
https://www.bmsspeakers.com/index.php-34.html?id=bms_15s330
https://www.bmsspeakers.com/index.php-34.html?id=bms_15s330
Looks OK to me. I thought you bought some B&Cs?This one is incredibly cheap...BMS 15s330
https://www.bmsspeakers.com/index.php-34.html?id=bms_15s330
Drivers that are good enough to leave no practical reason to upgrade in the future. For outright detail and dynamics at moderate volume levels, with enough extension to satisfy most music. Are pro components available that would compete with top consumer products like Excel and Revelator?
FaitalPRO seems to have a number of 12-18 inch drivers with relatively low mms, high Qms, smooth response, and unusually low Rms, such as the 12PR320, 15FH520, and 18FH500. All priced very reasonably if ordered from Europe.
Are these still lacking compared to the best consumer drivers? Are there other examples of exceptional professional components?
Would I be better off forgetting the high efficiency components and going with something like the SB34NRXL75-8?
I wish I could try them all, but spending many thousands on speaker drivers is not feasible.
I am using a FaitalPro 12PR300 (not 320) and it has an absolutely fantastic sound.
The 15PR400 is its bigger brother and is used in Tony Gee's Calpamos.
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