Don't spend the money until you're sure you need the extra power, especially if these are your first real HE speakers. You'll likely find you need less than you think unless you're doing a lot of heavy EQing. Even then you might find you have enough. I have waaay more power available than I'll use day to day, but, every so often I'll crank it to old fashioned stage volume for a few tracks, especially if I have the bass out.
I have been using these lab gruppen amps for years, they have been paired with JBL 2226h and Mac cauley 2 " compression drivers, it was quite insane !
By the way for your compensation, do you tune a LT and a baffle step compensation or just the Lt and you finish with an eq?
Save your money then and keep using them.
I was recently contemplating doing my 4 new surrounds with 2226 and 2446 with Radian Al phragms (have all the drivers already) on Yuichi A290s. Might still, but I have another design I like better so far.
The first, then tweak. The new surrounds I mentioned in the last post will be sealed 2226s LT'd in a 3 way.
Hello, just to keep you updated about the BMS 15s330 and perhaps if someone Google's it someday will have a beginning of a review which I didn't.
I was hesitating with several drivers from faital but I thought that first picking similar speakers would give similar results, BMS was I think under estimated because less used by famous diyers (troels lol)...the price was a bargain so this definitely made my point. After I received them website increased price by 20%, I guess it was still pre COVID price lol...
I made everything I could to create a good box, it is a kind of pyramid inside a box, 60l of air, 60l of sand. Foam from an old mattress was used inside.
I plugged everything and was happy because it was not that different and the nasty problems I had were gone. I don't know what it was, resonances, distortion, box noises maybe all of them...
Then I listened more and noticed that everything was better, transient, impact, lower notes. Bass and drums stop when they have to stop and give impact when they have to...
I am sure that a 400hz is no problem for that guy.
I am happy I kept the idea of a 15" for that and not overspent in a 12 plus sub...
I am quite inspired by big genelec monitors, 1238a, I'd like something with the same waveguide...
So far so goods.
Thanks to all the people who helped.
I was hesitating with several drivers from faital but I thought that first picking similar speakers would give similar results, BMS was I think under estimated because less used by famous diyers (troels lol)...the price was a bargain so this definitely made my point. After I received them website increased price by 20%, I guess it was still pre COVID price lol...
I made everything I could to create a good box, it is a kind of pyramid inside a box, 60l of air, 60l of sand. Foam from an old mattress was used inside.
I plugged everything and was happy because it was not that different and the nasty problems I had were gone. I don't know what it was, resonances, distortion, box noises maybe all of them...
Then I listened more and noticed that everything was better, transient, impact, lower notes. Bass and drums stop when they have to stop and give impact when they have to...
I am sure that a 400hz is no problem for that guy.
I am happy I kept the idea of a 15" for that and not overspent in a 12 plus sub...
I am quite inspired by big genelec monitors, 1238a, I'd like something with the same waveguide...
So far so goods.
Thanks to all the people who helped.
The key here is the builder has to get past the limits of max flat alignment and look at doubling box size. JBL and Altec did it in the 70s and there are lots of fans for those systems.
I am very interested in the beyma 15lx60, I will be active with an FA hypex.
I have a volume of 80 liters. on the other hand I have great difficulty to determining the size of rectangular events for something like F3 40hz
I already have the cabinet and I have two rectangular port 16 cm long and i want to determine width and height (for adapt them)
a Bass reflex does not work withOUT proper calculation of the ports size. If too big they (trhe existing squared ports) can be stuffed though. Calcul first their volume size and see if far or near than your simulations with the driver you are planning.
Another way to go is to close your rectangular ports and go for a rear tubular one that cope with your load according what say a kit for instance.
With a low lload as 80L for a 15 you may need a bass boost,a miniDSP is able to do, for example. To do so, you of course need a driver with higher Xmax than usual (means less efficienty ! Dayton range ?).
Of course if you cut off a little high the midrange to use the bass driver for bafle step compensation (300-500 hz cut-off?), you need your bass driver to have more efficienty than the midrange you choose.
Another way to go is to close your rectangular ports and go for a rear tubular one that cope with your load according what say a kit for instance.
With a low lload as 80L for a 15 you may need a bass boost,a miniDSP is able to do, for example. To do so, you of course need a driver with higher Xmax than usual (means less efficienty ! Dayton range ?).
Of course if you cut off a little high the midrange to use the bass driver for bafle step compensation (300-500 hz cut-off?), you need your bass driver to have more efficienty than the midrange you choose.
yes I know that's why, I try to calculate the right size of the rectangular ports, in height, width and length..but with winsd is not simple
With actif, i boots the bottom, does the woofer really have to be more efficient than the midrange...with passive crossover ok, but with hypex, is not necessary !
With actif, i boots the bottom, does the woofer really have to be more efficient than the midrange...with passive crossover ok, but with hypex, is not necessary !
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how are they coupled please ? do you notice face to face like this reduces any vibration into the box as with a back to back coupled pair ?
They were coupled like in the picture.....and it totally did not work acoustically ! Terrible summed output.
In trying a number of different opposed arrangements, all of them significantly reduced box vibration.
Back-to-back, facing, face-to-back....didn't matter Motors moving oppositely was all that mattered.
thanks I'm in the middle of making some dual opposed speakers atm back to back but I'm interested in face to back options as well I've heard a face to back with both speakers wired in the same phase allows you to reduce the box size by half . might be a good way of hiding some big 15s such as the eminence lab15 in a really small box
The face to back coupled arrangement with the same polarity of the drivers is called isobaric loading, but this differs from the same polarity face to face or back to back loading, because the isobaric loading don't cancels the resonances just reduces the required net box volume.
If the goal is a small box, then yes, otherwise no. Halving the required box size with isobaric loading has its price because you need 2x drivers but you don't get the advantage of the 3 dB higher SPL/efficiency. So the sound output will be the same as a single driver just the box size is halved.