"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

Will be worth the wait.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Whammy-Chassis_0009(Jacked)@1500px.jpg
    Whammy-Chassis_0009(Jacked)@1500px.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 1,370
  • Whammy-Chassis-Back@1500px.jpg
    Whammy-Chassis-Back@1500px.jpg
    97.9 KB · Views: 569
Absolutely beautiful!

Preorders will be arranged soon and all information will be divulged at that point. Until then, enjoy the teaser photos. :yes:

This chassis will be compatible with Whammys already built as well as new construction.
 
You could learn Eagle or KiCad and perform a PCB redesign. A redesign which has two sockets for every opamp placement, allowing you to install a single opamp OR a dual opamp OR a discrete opamp in every spot. Now you can try opamps like AD825 and LT1122 and AD797 which ONLY come as singles. Now you can also try opamps like LM4562 and OPA1656 which only come as duals. Now you can also try discrete opamps ... if your PCB redesign includes Mucho Grande blank space surrounding every opamp.

You could explore "stacked" PCBs ; build the left channel above the right channel, etc. Now you've got twice as much PCB layout area, as long as you don't use "tall" components.



_
 
Last edited:
Can I just say that Whammy sounds absolutely fantastic with OPA2132P? It is a great match with my Sennheiser HD 560S cans. I'm still waiting on some dip to soic adapter boards to do some opamp rolling, but listening to Neil Young's Bluenote Cafe, I really wonder why bother
 
Interestingly, without C2 and C7, I get 0 mV DC offset on the left, and 0.4 mV on the right channel. There is a basely perceptible hiss at full open volume. As an experiment, I installed 0.33uf c0g caps and dc offset changes to -0.2 mV on the left and -0.4 mV on the right. Hiss at volume full open is even less. I really need to concentrate to hear it at all. Pretty impressive, especially considering the high sensitivity of this headphone.
 
Last edited:
Hello. I am planning to use one of my whammy builds as a pre-amp. With that, I am also planning to use an i-select to select inputs. Where would be the best place to tap into the whammy power supply to get the V+ 17v to power the i-select?

Thanks in advance.

The i-select can take AC or 15-30V DC- just tap onto the whammy +/-15V reg outputs or the from the CRCRC filtered rails.
 

You don't need X/Y caps but remember to use 20Amp-rated components if you want to pass compliance (or have something that essentially would). See Wayne's note after my post here:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pas...-diy-headphone-amp-guide-271.html#post6284074

I've installed one of these now in every project I've built that is in a chassis and they work really well. They're a nice a tidy install and also remind you to connect the earth ground to the chassis only at this one point.

--Tom
 
Interestingly, without C2 and C7, I get 0 mV DC offset on the left, and 0.4 mV on the right channel. There is a basely perceptible hiss at full open volume. As an experiment, I installed 0.33uf c0g caps and dc offset changes to -0.2 mV on the left and -0.4 mV on the right. Hiss at volume full open is even less. I really need to concentrate to hear it at all. Pretty impressive, especially considering the high sensitivity of this headphone.

This is what they should do, you have done it correctly.