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Preamp+DAC

This is my new preamp!Almost done!
 

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Active Crossover to 6 pack of monoblocks

I've spent too much time on Ebay..

Behringer mixer
Behringer active crossover
Home Built:
DAC Souce
6 x Monoblock amps
2 x PR-800 MOSFET bass amps
2 x NCC200 regulated mid-range amps
2 x fully balanced naim clone trebbel amps

I desperately need a DSP crossover to sort out the wave balance but the SPL is fantastic.
 

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Firm believer in DIY after many years.

After 5 years of putting up with OEM , I'm sold on DIY (again).

I fired up my DIY plate amp .... And WOW !! I could push any sub in the house
to XMAX. , even my Peerless 12".

Below 1/2 is the Harbinger APS15/12 amp (3 are still available on ebay).
Add that 12$ sub filter - instant better than OEM performance.

-Harbinger AP12 amp (18$)
-Ebay "Subwoofer Volume Adjustment Filter Board " (12$)
-Antek 100VA trafo
-Nichicon 6800 X 2 80V caps.

Equals = This setup can push my 12" peerless sub nearly to XMAX all day
while just getting warm .... JUST warm.

The second one (below 2) - two pair 2SD2029/2SB1347's for the peerless.
These AP12 amps seem to run cool , PS "folds" from 54V to 48V (peerless).
This is just with the single pair version (AP12).

What a difference from OEM garbage.:):)

OS
 

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If you recap it , it could do 60-0-60v+. Will run nice at 40V rails , as well.
At least 3A (AP12) , 5A- AP15. I am taking into account rail collapse and
Antek's AC load specs.
I'll be running a 200VA trafo @35-0-35 AC (50-0-50vdc) for my 4 device AP 12 mod (like the AP15).
Definitely re-cap them ... "new old stock" , give them 6800uf Nichicons. :D
It's specs are a realistic 70W RMS with the 2 pair outputs and 120W (4 pair-AP15) at 8R.

4R .... Run a 50V supply , The AP15 could easily give 150W.

I now have my OEM polk sub running on what I showed. Shakes the WHOLE
house. Original Polk amp (so called psw-100 ), could not do this.

This amp is like a simplified DIYA store Badger amp. No bias trimmer.
Measured bias at 5-7mV - @25-40 mA. Not class B , but underbiased AB.
For a sub , this might be preferred ... as it runs VERY cool.

PS - no spec sheet. I am ampman :D:D -below is schema (reverse engineered).

OS
 

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It seems to work (Very) good.
But , A Slewmaster would work better.

A sub-amp needs not to have good 20K THD / or high slew.
It needs to dump current , make that cone "flop".

If I could "go all the way" , Slewmaster "arcwelder" with the wolverine input.
150 pF CMC , Sanken MT-200's.
Ultramax subwoofer BEWARE. Scary !!

PS -My posted subamp outpaces my OEM satellites , reduce LFE to compensate.
And , 25-35 hZ is now usable. Polk must limit under 40hz in the amp itself.
(So polk can fudge on specs).

OS
 
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OMG , that is quicker than I made my pre-built.
You should of added a Vbe trimmer to your layout.
Give credit to Harbinger , this is not my design.

Mine is ready to throw in the box.
With just 2 devices , mine is the louder of any the OEM 2.1's in the house.
Has much snappier bass than a Logitech bridged LM3886 Z series amp.
And twice as loud .... outpaces my satallites.
I am so pleased , I'm about to build a second one with 4 OP devices.

OS
 

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BTW , no caps from Ebay ...

Illinois Ebay dealer , I got good caps for the sub amp previous.

(below) is the SCAM of the Florida cap dealers.
These were to be Nichicon 4700uf/ 63V. Rubber plugs are "Jun fu" ,value is
3300uf (voltage unknown). 40mm , this cap should be 50mm.
Florida dealer INSTANTLY refunded my 14$ after these photo's , knowing I
"knew". I am debating whether to "nuke him" with a bad review.

PS - I won't put these in my amp !! :mad::mad:

OS
 

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