I have to point out a small issue for me. You have used a bad crimping tool. Which for me makes the crimp connection look ugly and possibly could cause bad connection at the crimp. With such a high quality build, you should buy a nice sets of crimpers. Also check correct crimp size for cable size. Not meaning to have dig at you, more to save pain in future. Or to have in mind for other builds.
Good and constructive criticism. Does not take away from the excellent craftsmanship and execution on Stevenv's amplifier. A young craftsman I know says that crimped connections can be stronger than soldered connections when done properly. I made many crimped connections on my own stuff incorrectly. Most of that gear is still around, but the connections do fail when I've pulled on them.
Good to see common courtesy and decency.
Good and constructive criticism. Does not take away from the excellent craftsmanship and execution on Stevenv's amplifier. A young craftsman I know says that crimped connections can be stronger than soldered connections when done properly. I made many crimped connections on my own stuff incorrectly. Most of that gear is still around, but the connections do fail when I've pulled on them.
Good to see common courtesy and decency.
🙂 no worries.
Good and constructive criticism. Does not take away from the excellent craftsmanship and execution on Stevenv's amplifier. A young craftsman I know says that crimped connections can be stronger than soldered connections when done properly. I made many crimped connections on my own stuff incorrectly. Most of that gear is still around, but the connections do fail when I've pulled on them.
Good to see common courtesy and decency.
Nicely put duke58 (and alwaysHiFi)
Kind regards
Mike
🙂🙂
Latest shed creation Holton HPA-NXL200 R4. 5
Few pics from my latest shed creation HPA-NXL200 R4.5
An outlet while being locked down.
Few pics from my latest shed creation HPA-NXL200 R4.5
An outlet while being locked down.
Attachments
always Hifi,
Very nice build.🙂
The power supply board with the main filter capacitors on it...is that your own design that you have incorporated into the build.
Stevenv
Very nice build.🙂
The power supply board with the main filter capacitors on it...is that your own design that you have incorporated into the build.
Stevenv
always Hifi,
Very nice build.🙂
The power supply board with the main filter capacitors on it...is that your own design that you have incorporated into the build.
Stevenv
@Stevenv. Thanks
No not my own design, I found these on ebay. Nymeria
Just my own take on how to use them. I did this before in another project.
They are two pcb's for 35mm dia caps. I add a copper ground plane to join them together & to make + 0 - rails. Think I have a few pics on my phone, from last time I made one. Will add below.
alwaysHifi.
That would be fantastic to see other photos. Are you using a RCA plug for the remote 12V trigger as well. I can’t quite work out your back panel. I’d be interested to see.
Thanks again🙂
That would be fantastic to see other photos. Are you using a RCA plug for the remote 12V trigger as well. I can’t quite work out your back panel. I’d be interested to see.
Thanks again🙂
Yes, I use rca for my trigger. I have plenty of them hanging around. Cheapo gold over something magnetic.
I have double rca for input, linked inside. So I can bi amp when I fancy it. Also makes it easy to plug oscilloscope in while testing.
Using Holton mains board screwed to back panel, that takes care on mains and speaker protection. With his ssr boards soldered to speaker binding posts.
I have double rca for input, linked inside. So I can bi amp when I fancy it. Also makes it easy to plug oscilloscope in while testing.
Using Holton mains board screwed to back panel, that takes care on mains and speaker protection. With his ssr boards soldered to speaker binding posts.
Attachments
alwaysHifi,
Thanks a million..Im just trying to figure out how to do my 12V trigger as well, but I’m using a 3.5mm socket instead on my Holton NXL800, but trying to find one that the housing case is isolated from the chassis is difficult.
Thanks a million..Im just trying to figure out how to do my 12V trigger as well, but I’m using a 3.5mm socket instead on my Holton NXL800, but trying to find one that the housing case is isolated from the chassis is difficult.
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Last edited:
Do solid state amps sound good low volume?
Wow, I don't think this is the place to ask that. It's like throwing potassium into water.
To answer the question assuming it's truthfully inquisitive, yes. I think that's more words than you can expect here in this thread. If the question is sincere, there is a lot of knowledge and experience to give much wisdom in answer, but in another thread. Search for answers, and if you don't find, create a new thread, and you will get plenty of info and reference.
alwaysHifi,
Thanks a million..Im just trying to figure out how to do my 12V trigger as well, but I’m using a 3.5mm socket instead on my Holton NXL800, but trying to find one that the housing case is isolated from the chassis is difficult.
Your welcome Stevenv. Looking closely I now see the jack is missing, for trigger. Heck of a beast you have created there. I like the flange like details. Looks like it will withstand a nuclear strike.
Enjoy the 800s.
alwaysHfi - quick work Kev, very nice my friend. Did you swap out some parts on the volt one or did you already have the newer version? I used the AMB ε24 power switch driver with a nice momentary switch to fire the 12V trigger and it worked perfectly
I see Anthony is making white PCB modules now, all his kit is really nice. Bet those little amps sound sweet pal. Canterbury iron running the show is as good as you'll get...
I see Anthony is making white PCB modules now, all his kit is really nice. Bet those little amps sound sweet pal. Canterbury iron running the show is as good as you'll get...
Thanks passive420, quickness aided by a wet weekend.
Yes, I already had the newer version of the mains controller. I have the older one earmarked for my audio pc linear power supply. Also running Canterbury iron 😎
Yes, Anthony work is good, white pcbs are a nice touch. Sound is great. Easy to listen to, with great dynamics.
Yes, I already had the newer version of the mains controller. I have the older one earmarked for my audio pc linear power supply. Also running Canterbury iron 😎
Yes, Anthony work is good, white pcbs are a nice touch. Sound is great. Easy to listen to, with great dynamics.
This is my latest amp. Its a hybrid with ECC803 tube input. And Mosfet output. The mosfet is a source follower current amp with no actual gain so you need a pre-stage with some voltage swing. 20W class A with rather low efficiency but what a nice amp. Can really match the best single ended triode tubeamps I have built before. If you can live with the low efficiency and the rather big format this is a very good amp. Link to build info the Power Folllower
Attachments
My circuit - "JLH 1969" 10W
Hi people,
My circuit - "JLH 1969" 10W
6 ohms speakers.
Power supply: 19V DC (notebook supply)
IQ: 1.2A
I will make a linear source with a transformer and voltage regulator for the amplifier.
Hi people,
My circuit - "JLH 1969" 10W
6 ohms speakers.
Power supply: 19V DC (notebook supply)
IQ: 1.2A
I will make a linear source with a transformer and voltage regulator for the amplifier.
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Amplificador Classe A JLH 1969 10W DC.jpeg160.6 KB · Views: 477
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site05.jpg145.9 KB · Views: 416
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Fonte Linear 18V DC.jpg154.2 KB · Views: 447
Hi people,
My circuit - "JLH 1969" 10W
6 ohms speakers.
Power supply: 19V DC (notebook supply)
IQ: 1.2A
I will make a linear source with a transformer and voltage regulator for the amplifier.
Very nice!
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