Nice sierratds, one thing that will keep it cooler is moving those heatsinks out on the edge of the board, airflow will be much better, or lift them an inch or two.
Hello amplidude,
Yes, I must close the amplifier with wooden parts, side and top. I am going to raise the heat sink a few centimeters from the wood. Thanks for the tip. I'm looking into the possibility of adding fans.
Yes, I must close the amplifier with wooden parts, side and top. I am going to raise the heat sink a few centimeters from the wood. Thanks for the tip. I'm looking into the possibility of adding fans.
Great, arctic makes some nice 120mm fans, with built in fan controller and a thermo probe on a 12 inch wire, fan is almost silent at room temperature, and picks up speed proportionally to temperature.
Tell us a bit about it - it looks cool but I'd love to know more about the design, purpose, functions, choices etc.
Active Crossover to 6 pack of monoblocks
I've spent too much time on Ebay..
Behringer mixer
Behringer active crossover
Home Built:
DAC Souce
6 x Monoblock amps
2 x PR-800 MOSFET bass amps
2 x NCC200 regulated mid-range amps
2 x fully balanced naim clone trebbel amps
I desperately need a DSP crossover to sort out the wave balance but the SPL is fantastic.
I've spent too much time on Ebay..
Behringer mixer
Behringer active crossover
Home Built:
DAC Souce
6 x Monoblock amps
2 x PR-800 MOSFET bass amps
2 x NCC200 regulated mid-range amps
2 x fully balanced naim clone trebbel amps
I desperately need a DSP crossover to sort out the wave balance but the SPL is fantastic.
Attachments
Firm believer in DIY after many years.
After 5 years of putting up with OEM , I'm sold on DIY (again).
I fired up my DIY plate amp .... And WOW !! I could push any sub in the house
to XMAX. , even my Peerless 12".
Below 1/2 is the Harbinger APS15/12 amp (3 are still available on ebay).
Add that 12$ sub filter - instant better than OEM performance.
-Harbinger AP12 amp (18$)
-Ebay "Subwoofer Volume Adjustment Filter Board " (12$)
-Antek 100VA trafo
-Nichicon 6800 X 2 80V caps.
Equals = This setup can push my 12" peerless sub nearly to XMAX all day
while just getting warm .... JUST warm.
The second one (below 2) - two pair 2SD2029/2SB1347's for the peerless.
These AP12 amps seem to run cool , PS "folds" from 54V to 48V (peerless).
This is just with the single pair version (AP12).
What a difference from OEM garbage.🙂🙂
OS
After 5 years of putting up with OEM , I'm sold on DIY (again).
I fired up my DIY plate amp .... And WOW !! I could push any sub in the house
to XMAX. , even my Peerless 12".
Below 1/2 is the Harbinger APS15/12 amp (3 are still available on ebay).
Add that 12$ sub filter - instant better than OEM performance.
-Harbinger AP12 amp (18$)
-Ebay "Subwoofer Volume Adjustment Filter Board " (12$)
-Antek 100VA trafo
-Nichicon 6800 X 2 80V caps.
Equals = This setup can push my 12" peerless sub nearly to XMAX all day
while just getting warm .... JUST warm.
The second one (below 2) - two pair 2SD2029/2SB1347's for the peerless.
These AP12 amps seem to run cool , PS "folds" from 54V to 48V (peerless).
This is just with the single pair version (AP12).
What a difference from OEM garbage.🙂🙂
OS
Attachments
Last edited:
Ostripper, thanks for the tip. I just bought one. Did it come with a spec sheet? You mind sharing the power requirements (voltage and current)?
If you recap it , it could do 60-0-60v+. Will run nice at 40V rails , as well.
At least 3A (AP12) , 5A- AP15. I am taking into account rail collapse and
Antek's AC load specs.
I'll be running a 200VA trafo @35-0-35 AC (50-0-50vdc) for my 4 device AP 12 mod (like the AP15).
Definitely re-cap them ... "new old stock" , give them 6800uf Nichicons. 😀
It's specs are a realistic 70W RMS with the 2 pair outputs and 120W (4 pair-AP15) at 8R.
4R .... Run a 50V supply , The AP15 could easily give 150W.
I now have my OEM polk sub running on what I showed. Shakes the WHOLE
house. Original Polk amp (so called psw-100 ), could not do this.
This amp is like a simplified DIYA store Badger amp. No bias trimmer.
Measured bias at 5-7mV - @25-40 mA. Not class B , but underbiased AB.
For a sub , this might be preferred ... as it runs VERY cool.
PS - no spec sheet. I am ampman 😀😀 -below is schema (reverse engineered).
OS
At least 3A (AP12) , 5A- AP15. I am taking into account rail collapse and
Antek's AC load specs.
I'll be running a 200VA trafo @35-0-35 AC (50-0-50vdc) for my 4 device AP 12 mod (like the AP15).
Definitely re-cap them ... "new old stock" , give them 6800uf Nichicons. 😀
It's specs are a realistic 70W RMS with the 2 pair outputs and 120W (4 pair-AP15) at 8R.
4R .... Run a 50V supply , The AP15 could easily give 150W.
I now have my OEM polk sub running on what I showed. Shakes the WHOLE
house. Original Polk amp (so called psw-100 ), could not do this.
This amp is like a simplified DIYA store Badger amp. No bias trimmer.
Measured bias at 5-7mV - @25-40 mA. Not class B , but underbiased AB.
For a sub , this might be preferred ... as it runs VERY cool.
PS - no spec sheet. I am ampman 😀😀 -below is schema (reverse engineered).
OS
Attachments
Last edited:
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
Thank you , brother.
Makes my night (while I listen to Tool) , on my sub.
I want to turn all them here against the poor quality of the OEM's.
I'm on a mission 😀 .
OS
Makes my night (while I listen to Tool) , on my sub.
I want to turn all them here against the poor quality of the OEM's.
I'm on a mission 😀 .
OS
It seems to work (Very) good.
But , A Slewmaster would work better.
A sub-amp needs not to have good 20K THD / or high slew.
It needs to dump current , make that cone "flop".
If I could "go all the way" , Slewmaster "arcwelder" with the wolverine input.
150 pF CMC , Sanken MT-200's.
Ultramax subwoofer BEWARE. Scary !!
PS -My posted subamp outpaces my OEM satellites , reduce LFE to compensate.
And , 25-35 hZ is now usable. Polk must limit under 40hz in the amp itself.
(So polk can fudge on specs).
OS
But , A Slewmaster would work better.
A sub-amp needs not to have good 20K THD / or high slew.
It needs to dump current , make that cone "flop".
If I could "go all the way" , Slewmaster "arcwelder" with the wolverine input.
150 pF CMC , Sanken MT-200's.
Ultramax subwoofer BEWARE. Scary !!
PS -My posted subamp outpaces my OEM satellites , reduce LFE to compensate.
And , 25-35 hZ is now usable. Polk must limit under 40hz in the amp itself.
(So polk can fudge on specs).
OS
Last edited:
X-former
AS-2234 - 200VA 34V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
80v caps CHECK lead spacing...
LGY1K682MELC45 Nichicon | Mouser
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/ESMH800VSN682MA40S?qs=xI6Y96ivSIw2oGz4HQZ1DQ==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...E/SLPX682M080H7P3?qs=tRzVlScAa5o35yBUJPuoEg==
100V caps CHECK lead spacing...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...H101VSN682MA50S?qs=Nmqklv/MN/IzQXgAJ00%2BHQ==
AS-2234 - 200VA 34V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
80v caps CHECK lead spacing...
LGY1K682MELC45 Nichicon | Mouser
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/ESMH800VSN682MA40S?qs=xI6Y96ivSIw2oGz4HQZ1DQ==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...E/SLPX682M080H7P3?qs=tRzVlScAa5o35yBUJPuoEg==
100V caps CHECK lead spacing...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...H101VSN682MA50S?qs=Nmqklv/MN/IzQXgAJ00%2BHQ==
Any cap up to 25mm diameter. 10mm LS.
Or just use small caps on board 470uF - 80V. Run wires to external cap bank.
Might do this on my bigger plate amp.
OS
Or just use small caps on board 470uF - 80V. Run wires to external cap bank.
Might do this on my bigger plate amp.
OS
OMG , that is quicker than I made my pre-built.
You should of added a Vbe trimmer to your layout.
Give credit to Harbinger , this is not my design.
Mine is ready to throw in the box.
With just 2 devices , mine is the louder of any the OEM 2.1's in the house.
Has much snappier bass than a Logitech bridged LM3886 Z series amp.
And twice as loud .... outpaces my satallites.
I am so pleased , I'm about to build a second one with 4 OP devices.
OS
You should of added a Vbe trimmer to your layout.
Give credit to Harbinger , this is not my design.
Mine is ready to throw in the box.
With just 2 devices , mine is the louder of any the OEM 2.1's in the house.
Has much snappier bass than a Logitech bridged LM3886 Z series amp.
And twice as loud .... outpaces my satallites.
I am so pleased , I'm about to build a second one with 4 OP devices.
OS
Attachments
BTW , no caps from Ebay ...
Illinois Ebay dealer , I got good caps for the sub amp previous.
(below) is the SCAM of the Florida cap dealers.
These were to be Nichicon 4700uf/ 63V. Rubber plugs are "Jun fu" ,value is
3300uf (voltage unknown). 40mm , this cap should be 50mm.
Florida dealer INSTANTLY refunded my 14$ after these photo's , knowing I
"knew". I am debating whether to "nuke him" with a bad review.
PS - I won't put these in my amp !! 😡😡
OS
Illinois Ebay dealer , I got good caps for the sub amp previous.
(below) is the SCAM of the Florida cap dealers.
These were to be Nichicon 4700uf/ 63V. Rubber plugs are "Jun fu" ,value is
3300uf (voltage unknown). 40mm , this cap should be 50mm.
Florida dealer INSTANTLY refunded my 14$ after these photo's , knowing I
"knew". I am debating whether to "nuke him" with a bad review.
PS - I won't put these in my amp !! 😡😡
OS
